No Start & Coolant Temp Sensor

[mtsinner7868]

Where would the CTS be located on my 88 GL 1.8 Turbo  ?  The car just stopped running moments after starting it one day.  The fuel line is pulsing when turning over so I believe the fuel pump is fine.  There is spark at the plugs but have yet to check the rotor to see if it's "loose".  Sort of narrowed it down to the CTS from my reading here.  Any help on its location would be helpful.  And if there is something else i should be checking while digging around in this microscopic engine bay for a no start condition please don't hesitate to post....... 

[wagonist]

I'd be surprised if the coolant temp sensor would stop an engine starting.

 

I've had problems with the tacho wire on the coil before. Because this also gives a signal to the ECU that the engine is sparking. It would crank, but not fire the injectors.

 

Will check my engine when I get home about the location of hte sensor, but it's tucked way down on the coolant crossover pipe that joins the heads together and is tucked up under the inlet manifold.

[Tat2Brat]

air charge temp sensor reads the outside air to mix up the right fuel gas ratio will make the vehicle real hard to start

on my xt it is on the passenger side way back on the block right before the trans. its got a single wire going to it spade connection looks like most temps sensors 

On my Gl-10 there is 3 temp sensors the one to ecu the one to dash and the air charge temp sensor Hope that helps

[mtsinner7868]

I'll be checking that as well.  Thanks for that info, it does help !

[robm]

What outside air temperature sensor is that?  Maybe it is part of the AC system, I have never heard of one affecting the fuel injection system.

 

The hot wire MAF sensor deals with air temperature as well as volume.  That is why it is called a MASS air flow sensor.

 

I had a bad CTS on a NA Loyale.  It was startable, but it was not easy.  It went bad in the spring, so it wasn't too cold outside, which helped a lot. I could keep it running with the judicious use of the throttle, but it was a real pain for a while.  Once warm, it was fine.  If your car was running OK for a bit then stopped, you may have to look at something else besides the CTS.

[Gloyale]

air charge temp sensor reads the outside air to mix up the right fuel gas ratio will make the vehicle real hard to start

on my xt it is on the passenger side way back on the block right before the trans.

 

That's the Knock sensor.  Not air temp.

 

There is no air temp sensor on EA82 MPFI.  engine CTS and gauge sender only.

 

Ironically......old carbed ones DO Have an air temp switch.

 

 

To the OP.....you're CTS, the one used by the ECU.....should be on the rear, passenger side of the intake......kinda below the turbo intake on the crossover part of the intake.  Brown Bosch style connector...2 pins...you will probably want to buy a new conncetor and splice it on the OE ones get corroded.

 

Likely not the stalling issue though......I'd suspect air leak.....check all the PCV hoses and check the intake boot for cracking where it mates to the turbo.

Edited March 27, 2014 by Gloyale

[mtsinner7868]

Let me throw this out there then..... I am pretty sure I have a sensor issue somewhere so what sensors being bad or compromised connection would cause a no start condition ? 

 

Not sure how an air leak would cause a no start (not even a pop out of a cylinder) condition....... while applying my Ford 6.0 knowledge which is probably apples to oranges here.

Edited March 27, 2014 by mtsinner7868

[ruparts]

hi, you need to verify the ignition rotor is turning,, you might have a broken timing belt,  the left one drives the cam/distributor , usually it is the one to go,  they also can blow off a couple of the teeth on them and cause the timing to be way off, but still turn the cam/distributor so try to check the t-belt condition.

[mtsinner7868]

hi, you need to verify the ignition rotor is turning,, you might have a broken timing belt,  the left one drives the cam/distributor , usually it is the one to go,  they also can blow off a couple of the teeth on them and cause the timing to be way off, but still turn the cam/distributor so try to check the t-belt condition.

Timing belt has been on my mind.....back of it anyway.  I do get spark but as you mention it may not be at the right time.  If timing is the case I'd hope for a loose rotor before a belt.... we'll see once I get into it. 

[Gloyale]

Let me throw this out there then..... I am pretty sure I have a sensor issue somewhere so what sensors being bad or compromised connection would cause a no start condition ? 

 

Not sure how an air leak would cause a no start (not even a pop out of a cylinder) condition....... while applying my Ford 6.0 knowledge which is probably apples to oranges here.

 

Diesels don't care how much air there is.

 

Gas enignes do.  Air leak= not enough air pulled thorugh Air Flow meter = not enoguh fuel injected to start.

[MilesFox]

the engine temp sensor is located on the back of the intake, on the water crossover tube, just behind the turbo. take off the '4wd turbo' plenum to get to it. it's a 17mm nut and has a brown connector shaped like the fuel injector plug.

[Tat2Brat]

That's the Knock sensor.  Not air temp.

 

There is no air temp sensor on EA82 MPFI.  engine CTS and gauge sender only.

 

Ironically......old carbed ones DO Have an air temp switch.

 

 

To the OP.....you're CTS, the one used by the ECU.....should be on the rear, passenger side of the intake......kinda below the turbo intake on the crossover part of the intake.  Brown Bosch style connector...2 pins...you will probably want to buy a new conncetor and splice it on the OE ones get corroded.

 

Likely not the stalling issue though......I'd suspect air leak.....check all the PCV hoses and check the intake boot for cracking where it mates to the turbo.

 

I kindly disagree

If your correct how come when i put this on my 1986 XT GL-10 it decided to run perfectly?

Import Direct Ignition - Air Charge Temperature Sensor

 

Part #

17-1339

Or I could take a picture of all 3 sensors on my vehicle if you're interested

To original poster dunno if this is your problem and sorry for hijacking your thread

Edited March 28, 2014 by Tat2Brat

[robm]

Did it have a hot wire or a flapper air sensor?

 

1986 might have been a strange year.  The hot wire MAF's do not need temperature, it is built in to the flow sensor.

[Tat2Brat]

Book says it's a flappy

never had a problem with the MAF so i never took it apart to see for myself

It's a project so i dont drive it much

1986 was a new and strange year for alot of things in subaru I would not be surprised to hear it had an elephant sensor

I believe the only relevant info to this discussion and for the O.P. to take out of this is that there may be 2 or 3 temp. sensors and to beware of the possibilities

[Gloyale]

There is not an Air intake tempature sensor on the posters 88 turbo.

 

there should not be a seperatae air temp sensors in an 86 XT either.  There is an air temp sensor built into the flapper MAF.

 

 

There are only 2 "sensors" for temp on an 88 turbo and only one that the ECU cares about......it's behind and below the intake runner on the passenger side of coolant crossover. (spider intakes it's drivers side)

 

The single prong one is for the gauge.

 

 

Tat2Brat......that's the knock sensor at the back of the block. Not temp sensor.

 

The part # you reference is correct for Carbed models...but has nothing to do with FI models.  Not sure why they list that....but it's clearly not in the daigrahms.

 

The ECU of the flappers pin 2 Lg/W wire is air intake temp signal FROM THE MAF.......not any seperate part.

Edited March 29, 2014 by Gloyale

[Tat2Brat]

well

 

Im not here to argue so I wont

 

but the fact that i put a air temp sensor into where you say the knock sensor is suppose to be and my vehicle runs without error codes and my temp. sensor error code cleared itself seems strange

I'm not saying your wrong I'm not an expert

 

feel free to come up from oregon i'll buy you a drink and you can tell me about what sensors do what

 

Other than that I'm out

[Gloyale]

I would love to see a picture.  And think about it.....how could a sensor screwed into the block measure intake air tempature???

 

Not trying to "argue" either.  And I'm not calling you a liar.

 

It's just I am A stickler for accurate information being distibuted here......otherwise.....what's the point right?

 

Something just doesn;t add up with your claim of a that a 2 wire, aspitrated air temp sensor located ont eh back of the manifold of an 86 XT had anything to do with a code or even exists on your car.........I would love to figure out what the discrepency in our perceptions is?  Perhaps you are remembering work you did to the Brat?

[Gloyale]

air charge temp sensor reads the outside air to mix up the right fuel gas ratio will make the vehicle real hard to start

on my xt it is on the passenger side way back on the block right before the trans. its got a single wire going to it spade connection looks like most temps sensors 

On my Gl-10 there is 3 temp sensors the one to ecu the one to dash and the air charge temp sensor Hope that helps

 

Which one are you talking about being the one that solved the code on your XT?

 

The part you listed is a 2 wire....?

 

.........a single wire sensor would be the one for the gauge that the computer doesn't care about.....or even monitor...How would it solve a code?

 

The FSM flowchart shows for the aspirated air code to inspect and/or replace the MAF......not an individual sensor and certainly not on the back of the block.....

 

There is just something inaccurate or confused with your claims.....

 

I'd like to see it solved....., and I will certainly take you up on a beer sometime.....Perhaps this summer at the Evans Creek run...

[coxy]

Make sure all the earth points are good as any sensor also needs a complete circuit to read right, Sometimes with CTS it is just a bad earth due to corrosion needing cleaning up other times a general earth problem not a bad unit so always chech the earth side of anything after all it requires both earth and power to operate correctly to work as designed.