General H6 maintenance questions

[Wallis_93]

I have a 2003 Subaru outback H6 sedan and I was wondering if someone could give me some tips for maintenance. I just replaced my idler and tensioner pulleys after my belt broke and I know almost nothing about maintaining a vehicle as this is my first car. I would like to learn some things and I'm really good at figuring stuff out and following directions.

 

I've owned my car for about a year and I was wondering what else I should look for that may need to be fixed or replaced. If someone could also post links to videos then that would be very appreciated.

 

Another part that I'm lacking in is tools. I don't have very many tools of my own for working on a car and if anyone knows where I could get a good set for a good price I'd really feel much more confident.

[idosubaru]

You've taken care of the one main maintenance issue with that vehicle.  Those things run to 250,000 miles with little else than what you've already done.  Excellent vehicles.

 

1. Replace PCV valve, fuel filter, and air filter.  All very easy.

2. Replace spark plugs (due every 100,000 miles).

3.  Fluids obviously. 

 

These aren't really maintenance - but typical repairs that cause oil leaks:

 

Spark plugs are tricky but not impossible.  Basic tools but tight spaces.  On the H6's, it's best to replace the valve cover gaskets and plugs at the same time.  Gives you more space, makes plugs easy, and the valve cover gaskets always leak at some point by 250,000 miles, so might as well just do them both one time and be done with it.

 

Oil cooler gaskets frequently leak too - same exact set up as all 4 cylinder oil cooler agskets, so you can easily find that information out.  Really easy - just annoying the coolant that dumps out when you pull the coolant hoses.  Requires a large socket - i think it's 26mm.

 

Having a fuel cap on hand with an extra oring is helpful preparation to avoid unecessarily replacing the fuel pump due to a cracked $25 cap. If it happens on the road you're kind of stuck.  I have an extra fuel cap and oring in mine just in case.

[Wallis_93]

Any recommendations on a set of tools I can purchase to help me with these things? Also I see a lot about cv joints. Should I check those? And what exactly am I looking for with those? Do I have to remove the wheel?

[Wallis_93]

And how hard is to do valve cover gaskets for someone who knows very little about cars mechanically?

[idosubaru]

CV Axles.  You don't touch those until the boots break, it'll always be the inner boot right next to the transmission on this vehicle.  They'll run 50,000+ miles with broken boots so don't freak out once they do break and start smelling when the grease slings out and hits the hot exhaust.  It's not a big deal but freaks people out and most people don't know how long these axles will last. You have lots of time to prepare for repair once the boots break.  The sooner the better so as not to compromise the joint, but the're very robust.

 

This is an important item to know about Subaru CV axles:
1. NEVER replace a Subaru CV axle, they last the life of the vehicle.  Always reboot them.

2. Reboot them - preferrably with Subaru boots, it is suspected they last longer and I think that's the case

3.  If you ever have to replace an axle get a used Subaru OEM axle with a green inner cup and reboot it

4.  never buy aftermarket axles, they're horrendous and your existing axles are  high quality and will last the life of the vehicle - silly to throw them away.

 

In some ways CV axles are tricky, though they are really simple and straight forward. With the wheel off (yes it has to come off) - it only requires removing one bolt, one nut, loosening another bolt, and knocking a pin out to remove the axle. Then to disassemble the axle you need snap ring pliers (or get creative with screwdrivers/tools but that's not a good idea without experience), and the proper tool for tightening the CV boot - there are different styles, depending on which boot clamps you get. the tool matches the clamp.

 

You can also remove the axle and have a shop reboot it for you, or attempt a reboot yourself.

 

You need a 32mm socket to remove the axle nut and a long pipe - like 3 foot long to break it loose - it's one of the tightest fasteners on the vehicle.

I've broken/sheared off multiple 1/2" sockets, wrenches, breaker bars, and have now upgraded to 3/4" tools just for axle nuts.  They're all tight but one out of 20 can be really crazy tight.

 

You don't really need valve cover gaskets until they start leaking so you probably have lots of time to prepare for that.  They start leaking very slowly and get worse over thousands of miles, not a big deal, plenty of time to plan a repair as well.

 

Tool set:

1/4", 3/8", 1/2" socket wrenches.

8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets

3 larger sizes for specific jobs:

22 mm socket for crank pulley (timing belt jobs)

26mm for oil cooler bolt

32 mm for axle nuts

ratcheting wrenches in the 8, 10, 12, and 14mm variety are very helpful.

extensions for the sockets.  the 10mm ratcheting wrenches are almost a necessity for many Subaru valve cover gaskets.

 

In general you'd ask before you did a job - "what tools do i need to XYZ" - and tell us what XYZ is - what you're trying to do.

 

that will go a long way on Subarus.

[idosubaru]

Valve cover gaskets are not hard - but they are time consuming and will involve a learning curve if you're a first timer.

They're very simple in scope and quantity of steps:

1. Disconnect O2 sensor plug

2. Unbolt 3 bolts for coil plugs and remove coil plug harnesses

3. Remove all 10mm valve cover bolts

 

4. Replace valve cover gasket, spark plug tube gasket, and spark plugs.

Reinstall in reverse.

 

But space is tight and it's hard to see - not particularly helpful for a first timer - harnesses are tricky to disconnect (harder if you have big or not very agile hands), coils tricky to seat on the plugs, and the lower rear valve cover bolts are the really beastly part (this is where you need that ratcheting wrench) - you get your hands/tools on them and loosen/tigthen without really being able to see what you're doing. Minus the space considerations it's a really easy and straightforward job.

 

So - if you're the type that's really anal and wants to see everything the first time you do it and get a really good, concise picture of what you're doing.  This isn't a good job for you.

 

If you're resilient and creative and able to picture it in your head and plan ahead and prepare yourself that this might take a litle longer because it's your first time and you like a learning experience and are okay with needing a break when something gets frustrating - then by all means try it - because it's really not that hard, there's nothing tricky about it.

[1 Lucky Texan]

this and 1 or 2 other Forums have posts with pictures and sometimes links to videos.(repair book here ,http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forum/30-ultimate-subaru-repair-manual-the-knowledge-base-of-usmb-complied-posts-and-writeups-to-common-problems-and-projects/   DIY at www.subaruputback.com) Also, search youtube.

 

Do you have any friends or relatives that wrench on their cars? It's often good to offer some pizza or BBQ and a beer or 3 just to have moral support and someone to hand you tools if nothing else. And some jobs are easier with a helper to pump a brake pedal or something.

 

Start with things like fluid changes and brake work. I still buy tools occasionally. Try to not buy junk, but realize you're a hobby mechanic and really don't need top-of-the-line tools. (tools are kinda an investment, when I die, someone will inherit mine or they will get sold off. so, they aren't quite as pricey as they seem. Good tools will always hold 'some' value, the first tools I bought for my own use came from a pawnshop. later, I got a small 3./8" drive set from a NAPA store, some I inherited from a friend that passed away, some from my dad after he passed....) Specialty stuff is often available from the parts store. basically a free rental. You buy the tool, they refund you when you return it. Sometimes, a co-worker or neighbor will have something i can borrow.

 

do you have a smartphone? there's a $15 adapter and a free app that will let you scan the car's ECU. laptop?, there's cable that can do the same thing.

Edited March 28, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Wallis_93]

Well that's good. I really want to learn how to work on my car and fix it when it breaks. I'm excited to learn and I know that since I have little experience that I will need patience.

 

Would it be smart to just invest in maybe a $200 tool set? And what are some other equipment I should invest in? Jack stands, floor jack, maybe a jump box,etc??? I plan on buying another older Subaru to maybe fix up and use to work on so I can learn more about cars. Is that a good way to learn? I saw a Haynes repair manual at the auto store... Are these any good to have? Are they really helpful or not really of use?

 

Thank you for helping me out and answering all my questions so far. I really appreciate it

[Wallis_93]

Oh wow I didn't know you could use your smartphone/laptop. Yes I have a cousin and uncle who are very good at working on cars. I think it's just intimidating because I've never really done it before and there's so much but I'm sure I'll warm up to it once I learn a few things.

[1 Lucky Texan]

First, we all make mistakes. I don't make as many now as I have in the past, but by asking for advice here, educating yourself a little with pic and videos, maybe getting a haynes or other repair manual - you'll do OK.

 

I wouldn't have done struts or pulled the fuel pump if it wasn't for the great guys here and elsewhere on the 'Net.

 

I might change the timing belt on my WRX in the fall - intimidating but, i plan to bug the guys here with a lot of niggling questions, partly just to get up the courage!

 

don't worry about too much. And don't be afraid to farm something out that is outside your abilities - you'll still be ahead if you do most of your own maintenance and some of your repairs.

Edited March 29, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan

[Wallis_93]

I really appreciate all the help you guys have given me so far and I will probably be asking a lot of questions in the near future about repairing and maintaining my Subaru. I'm excited to learn more about cars and how to keep them running.

 

Would it be a good idea to buy a cheap car for a couple hundred and try to fix it up and learn that way? I have family that could help who know a lot more about cars if I need it along the way.

[1 Lucky Texan]

if you really have the time and space and money for a 'project car', ask around here what's a good prospect. Offhand, I'm think a Brat or an XT6 or an RS, but, maybe someone else will have some ideas.

[idosubaru]

Yes you'll need tools. The tools that have lifetime warranties (Lowes, Craftsman used to and may still) are nice.  If you're starting/investing yo'ull probably be doing this awhile and it's nice to just go get a new tool for free in 1 year or 10 when it breaks.

 

Minus adapters and extensions I listed everything you need.  There's only a very small assortment of bolt/fastener sizes on Subarus, I listed nearly all of them. More tools in sizes you don't need and standard measurements won't be needed.

 

This forum is 10x more helpful than a project car unless you can happen to find one that's exactly the same as yours. 

 

I'd rather have a beater car to drive around while working on mine - giving me more confidence to jump into it as needed and take my time, do it right, ask questions rather than rush, not worry about having the wrong part, a tool breaking, etc.

 

Take note of the people that know your vehicle well - and remember who they are.  My greatest learning came from like 5 or so people that knew lots about Subarus and specifically Subaru XT6's (my first Subaru i started working on). Get intentional and find people that have done lots of Subaru's, lots of H6's, and speak from large sample sizes of experience. Many people aren't good at discerning who to listen to advice from and listen to friends, a boyfriends uncle, first three things they read on the internet....not good approaches. Start to take note who really knows your vehicle.

 

I grew up not knowing anything or owning any tools.  I got to college and simply couldn't afford to pay anyone to work on my cars and quickly found out I liked the challenge and enjoyed it. If you can play, learn, jump in, and have some initiative you'll figure it out.

 

A project car sort of depends on what type of person you are.  It won't necessarily be directly attributable to your H6 if it's different.  People are most comfortable and productive when they've seen the exact same thing and know exactly what to expect.  If you're like most people a project car will only be mildly helpful with skill development, but not really with specific jobs on your H6. 

 

People generally dislike uncertainty very much...but not all people.  If you're the type of person that can see one thing and easily transfer the ideas and large view conceptually to entirely different situations, etc - then maybe a project car helps.  It could also motivate you to learn and get confident, there's a lot of value in that since most of this is going to come from capacity and initiative.

Edited March 29, 2014 by grossgary

[Wallis_93]

Yeah I agree with you and I think a beater car will give me a lot more confidence. I'm sure I could figure out how to work on my H6 after getting some general knowledge working on another car. While they'll be different I can just adapt what I know to help me out and at the same time use this forum along the way. Everyone here gives a lot of support so far and that also gives me more confidence.

 

I really look forward to learning how to fix my car. I know it may take a little while before I know much but I have plenty of time to learn being only 20.

 

Now I just need to find an old beater car... I guess I'll check this forum and hopefully something will pop up sometime. I am in no rush though. Thank you guys for all the help, especially with the tools and knowing a little about how you started working on cars.

[idosubaru]

You can get Subaru Factory Service Manuals online for free with a little scouring around.  Get one for your current car and the project car you pick up as well.

They're dense and you have to learn how much of it to skip or ignore as sometimes there are lots of needless steps, but it's always correct and shows the scope of a given project (that's not too bad or WOAH better not try that just yet) and will help you ask the questions you need to ask on this forum.

[Wallis_93]

Alright I'll try to find those and hopefully that will help as well. Watching videos online helps out a lot since I'm very unfamiliar with cars mechanically. Just seeing people take apart some of the engine really helps because I get to see what some stuff looks like. For example, earlier I watched a video on how to get to the headgaskets and it really showed me a whole lot. specifically that I have a lot to learn. Hopefully one day I'll feel comfortable doing that myself and at least know what I'm doing.

 

That service manual you are talking about seems like it would be very beneficial.

[Gloyale]

Oil cooler O-ring.

 

The get old and leak......same as on the 4 cyl engines, but on the H6....it sits "sideways" makes installig the new seal just a bit harder than the 4cyls.

[Wallis_93]

I've been looking around for one of those service manuals but have had no luck finding one for free. Anyone know where I can get one and if so could you post a link please. I'd really appreciate it as this service manual sounds really helpful.

[PiPPi]

I have an '03 H6 too and I use this: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/2003/Service%20Manual/

 

I print what I need when I need it but it's all there.. 

[ccrinc]

I'm wondering what belt you replaced on a 6 cylinder? That engine (EZ30) has timing chains, not belt.  So, was that a typo and you have an EJ25 SOHC instead?

Emily

[1 Lucky Texan]

accessory belt - those bearings go bad on that belt's idler and tensioner pulleys..

[ccrinc]

accessory belt - those bearings go bad on that belt's idler and tensioner pulleys..

I questioned this to be sure because, obviously, there are idler and tensioner pulleys for the timing belts and timing chains as well.

 

Just wanted to make sure we are all on the same page.

 

For maintenance purposes, I will say that, unequivocally, the single MOST important thing to do with an EZ30 engine is regular oil changes.  Don't let it go too long, don't let it get low (not even 1 quart!) and use a quality synthetic or synthetic blend oil.  My personal favorite (I have an LL Bean with the same engine) is Valvoline.

 

Emily

[1 Lucky Texan]

well, yeah, I 'assumed' he listed the car correctly but....good point!