Opinions on restoring faded bumpers?

[jonas]

Bumpers on my wagon are faded to grey. I can scratch with my thumb nail and see pretty black underneath. Been looking on line at various restoration products but none seem to be what im looking for. Something to remove that grey layer. I've been doing spot tests trying to take that grey layer off, but so far my methods (various scratch pads/super fine sandpaper, etc) leave fine scratches. Any suggestions on this?

[LucasP]

My grandpa was a body and fender guy for 30 years and now does custom body work on high end cars and older cars.  The tip he gave me that worked awesome on the black plastic that was on the wranger I used to have was black shoe polish.  It soaks into the plastic really well and leaves it nice and shiny.  I never thought it would work but it worked awesome.

[Crazyeights]

Heat gun, carefully.

[suprjohn]

I picked up some Maguire's bumper black. I haven't tried it yet, but how much do you want to bet it's shoe polish in a bottle that costs twice as much? lol 

 

John

[rrgrr]

Bumper Black works well on the side trim, but it is wasted on the bumpers, doesn't last at all. It is certainly not shoe polish -I would have guessed something far more disgusting[digress]!.

I spoke with local body guys and was recommended Bondo Bumper Black Paint. No Bulldog or primer/adhesion promo needed. I haven't done this yet, but they clash with the other blacks now, so it is on my list.

I have some Wipe New I've been waiting for weather to try on my dash, and will try some on the bumpers as well.

[SmashedGlass]

There are plenty of bumper coatings from different companies. Pretty much the only way you're going to bring a black bumper back to life, IMHO.

Never had any real luck with any of the compounds that are meant to "restore" black plastics and moldings working very well or for very long.

[l75eya]

To be honest, i just scuffed up my bumpers with sandpaper and rattle canned them and they actually came out well. 2 years later! I'll try and dig up some pictures.

[l75eya]

Well after looking, it's funny;

 

I have a great picture of the bumper BEFORE I painted it...but not one real good one after!
Well, here's what I got

 

Before:

 

After: (and these are all quite some time after)

 

 

 

[skishop69]

Every 'wipe on' bumper/plastic restorer I've used or research only lasts a year at best. I used the heat gun and shoe polish method on my black Brat and that lasted 18 months. Any kind of plastic 'paint' is going to chip, scratch or flake. I've been researching actual plastic and polymer dyes as they are not something that is readily available to the public due to their caustic nature. I have come up with something I think will work but have not yet had time to implement it. Acetone causes plastic to 'open up' and soften temporarily. Mixing it 2: with the appropriate color enamel or laquer should create the consistency of a dye. To make this as effective as possible, the piece in question would need to be heated uniformly to around 120 degrees to pre-soften the plastic opening up the surface. Wipe the mixture on and wipe off the residual. It should soak into the plastic. Let it cool off and repeat 2 more times. My plan was to build wooden boxes big enough to contain my bumpers and vent them to allow a small space heater to blow in one end with a restriction on the other end to hold the heat in to a degree heating them uniformly. I got the idea from talking to an upholstery guy I know who says they use acetone mixed with a dye to re-dye auto carpet which is polymer based. The reason the plastic fades is that the oils that hold or contain the dye are leached out by the sun and environment over time. If you try this, let me know how it works. I'm prolly 2 months out from having time to do it.

[Crazyeights]

Every 'wipe on' bumper/plastic restorer I've used or research only lasts a year at best. I used the heat gun and shoe polish method on my black Brat and that lasted 18 months. Any kind of plastic 'paint' is going to chip, scratch or flake. I've been researching actual plastic and polymer dyes as they are not something that is readily available to the public due to their caustic nature. I have come up with something I think will work but have not yet had time to implement it. Acetone causes plastic to 'open up' and soften temporarily. Mixing it 2: with the appropriate color enamel or laquer should create the consistency of a dye. To make this as effective as possible, the piece in question would need to be heated uniformly to around 120 degrees to pre-soften the plastic opening up the surface. Wipe the mixture on and wipe off the residual. It should soak into the plastic. Let it cool off and repeat 2 more times. My plan was to build wooden boxes big enough to contain my bumpers and vent them to allow a small space heater to blow in one end with a restriction on the other end to hold the heat in to a degree heating them uniformly. I got the idea from talking to an upholstery guy I know who says they use acetone mixed with a dye to re-dye auto carpet which is polymer based. The reason the plastic fades is that the oils that hold or contain the dye are leached out by the sun and environment over time. If you try this, let me know how it works. I'm prolly 2 months out from having time to do it.

Thanks! I'll probably never actually get around to this, but it sounds great!

[SmashedGlass]

I'm probably just going to Plastidip mine. It can be peeled off and re-applied as necessary.

[jonas]

Thanks. like you guys, I've used various Restore products with little satisfaction. I'm thinking some carefully applied paint stripper to remove the grey. Most likely i'll be going the Plastidip route. I used it on the front bumper (Not stock) of my Brat and it seems to be holding up pretty well.

[TheWanderer]

Meds brand has a product called Renu Pro.  I've used this on multiple vehicles (mostly subarus), and had a guy in one of my other car forums use it, and we both agree its the best out there on the market currently.

[jonas]

I'll give it a shot. I think I'm just overthinking this.

[somick]

WD 40 works fine on the sides.  I have not tried it on bumper though.

 

Sam

[bratman18]

As was said, a heat gun works great. Carefully go over the entire surface and I it'll turn shiny black as you move along.

Edited April 9, 2014 by bratman18

[skishop69]

Thanks. like you guys, I've used various Restore products with little satisfaction. I'm thinking some carefully applied paint stripper to remove the grey. Most likely i'll be going the Plastidip route. I used it on the front bumper (Not stock) of my Brat and it seems to be holding up pretty well.

DO NOT use paint stripper! It'll eat that plastic up! The gray is plastic that the dye has leached out of. Some of the gray may be oxidation, but do not use anything like paint stripper to clean it. Actually never thought of plastidip and I've used it on other things. Properly applied, I could see that lasting a while.

[the sucker king]

http://www.semproducts.com/bumper-coater-aerosols/

[pksjeep]

Acetone is flammable, I would be careful around the
heat. You don't want any surprises!

[nipper]

I cleaned them with soap, water, then alchol. I then used a rattle can of Bumper paint (The Justy) . Two years later they still look new.

[rain_man_rich]

I've always wondered since I can scratch it to black underneath if some rubbing compound and an orbital polisher would do the trick.

[buckkiller]

Well 2 1/2 cans of plastidipp should be thick enough to last...just make sure you allow it to dry for about 30 min between each coat, then allow it to dry for about 2-3 days. Just did my front bumper

 

Buck

[skishop69]

That looks awesome! Let us know about durability. Easier than my idea but I have jump seats and I want them to look original.

 

Yes, acetone is flammable, but I would hope anyone else trying my method would be smart enough turn the heat off during applications. lol It's going to dry almost as soon as you apply it and I've placed painted parts in a heat box as well as the oven to cure/dry after shooting.