SubaruGL85FTW Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 So ive been poking around the internet and read the following 1.) 170 degree thermostat 2.) 10-12 degree timing with high octane 3.) and you can run a hotter coil also looking for any tricks anyone else may know wanna do a weber 32/36 DGEV or holley 180 swap so any imput there much appreciated and i plan to run E3 plugs will post if they make a difference Pros and cons? any advice appreciated -Jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallonX Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 1. Some cars require a decent temp to allow for fuel atomization 2. Carb'd runs 8 btdc and will run up to 20 btdc 3. Just as long as the resistance values are with spec to stock, hotter coils work just fine but you only need to go hotter under higher compression I've been considering Frankensteining up an intake off an SPFI and running a single barrel holley 190 for shits n giggles never know right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruGL85FTW Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 oh alright well i like the tips thank you and i wanna build the crap out of mine lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) Add air, add fuel, keep it cool and don't blow it up If it's an EA82 keep it full of oil and shift at 4500 rpm. You might even develop a soft spot for the old engine. Especially when you realize that they are too dumb to die. My vote is -to heck with the old factory specs. Even with premium and who knows what for fuel these days.... They used to run these engines in small aircraft. If you can manage to blow it up on pump gas then it was ready to go anyway IMHO. Run a smaller tire size, gear down, and HAVE FUN for cheap!!! Edited April 14, 2014 by Crazyeights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallonX Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 They also love PURE gasoline How to remove ethanol cheaply... Mix a quart of water with 4 gallons of premium shake vigorously then let sit for 24hrs the water will attract the ethanol and sink to the bottom of the can siphon of the good stuff and boda bing 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 WELCOME JAKE!!!! I run the E3 plugs in my BRAT. I have always considered the EA82 to be underpowered, but reliable when kept full of oil and coolant. FYI: Bluey is still running and going. Bucky (the low to the ground white wagon) is still going also. Both running with open timing belt covers (1/2 hour t-belt change on the side of the road) Bluey is going on year #4 with headgasket leaks and no thermostat or pressure valve in the radiator cap. Dawn dish liquid bottle for a coolant overflow jug. As far as performance, I can reliably get rubber in first, second, and third with Bucky. (260-something thousand miles) Don't hear a LOT about EA82 performance mods... but I can tell ya all the EA81 tricks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) its been debated many times, but reality is the heads on EA series engines dont flow enough to see huge gains without a disproportionate expenditure of monetary assets. Why do you think EJ engines were developed? I will disclose that I run EA engines in all my cars currently, and have accepted their capabilities. Edited April 15, 2014 by Subruise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 a holley 5200 is a similar carb to the weber. don't know if that was what you meant saying you wanted a holly for it, or if you truly meant a 180. another avenue if your looking for used carbs to rebuild yourself. have to be careful of where they come from though since they were changed for the application a lot of times. I've run higher advance without using premium, and many others have as well. i did start to see some loss in the mid range over about 12 degrees though. Ive run it as high as 20, but unless you live somewhere where you only need light throttle I would at least start around 10-12. never seen too many cars where a hotter coil made a ton of difference. I think many times people are replacing old crappy coils to begin with and any new one would have made a difference. if you do go to buy an aftermarket coil make sure its rated to be sideways mounted. many have oil in them to keep them cool and can't be mounted sideways. or at least make sure to change the mount. also don't forget the rest of the ignition system, wires, etc. the system will still only work as good as its weakest part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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