Dash bulb replacement

[NocturneVoyager]

A couple of the lights on the dash for the instrument cluster are fading out, and I had given thought to replacing them to keep my dash well lit.  Is it a real pain in the pa-tootie to replace those, or is it a pretty simple job?

 

This is on a 1986 XT GL, as reference.

Edited April 22, 2014 by NocturneVoyager

[suprjohn]

I just went thru this with my '89 DL wagon, though I had the additional issue of pulling the whole dash and essentially rebuilding the HVAC system. 

 

As you might expect, replacing the bulbs is a piece of cake. the sticky part is accessing the back of the cluster. 

 

Not sure how the cluster works on an '86, but on an '89 the outer shroud and vent assembly is held on by four screws and a series of molded in clips. Not too bad too remove, though on mine the clips were a little stubborn and plastic this old is sometimes brittle, so use caution. 

 

On mine, the heater control unit needs to be unscrewed, and it's associated buttons can be stubborn; I ended up breaking one, but was able to superglue it. I also broke one of the tabs that the mounting screws go thru, but I was able to repair that with a small angle bracket and some JB Weld. Obviously, the assorted switches need tho be disconnected. Mine wetter a little though tho disconnect, after being in service for many years. I sprayed them with dielectric grease, which really seemed to help as I had the cluster in and out several times during the process. 

 

The top shroud simply snaps in, and is fairly straight forward to remove. 

 

Once those items are out of the way, the cluster itself just has two screws. There are two large wire boundless at the top of the cluster. Pretty hard to mix them up, but you might liable them left and right. Once these are removed, the cluster should pull forward. On mine, I really felt like it was worthwhile to remove the steering wheel and drop the steering column. This gives you quite a bit more room. On the back of the cluster, there are two large round wire connected, and of course the Speedo cable. Once these are disconnected, the cluster congress out as a unit. The bulbs simple screw out, and then slip out of their holders. 

 

Reverse the process to install. 

 

I took the additional step of pulling and polishing the clear plastic lens, and painting the needles with Testors florescent paint. Somewhere in the process, I broke off the needle rests, and head to fabricate new ones out of finish nails. I ground them to size, and glued them in place with super glue. 

 

Nothing to complicated, but if you're slow and clumsy like me, I'd allow at least a weekend. If I can be off assistance, let me know. 

 

John

[SmashedGlass]

The XT is different from the Leone/Loyale, but should be similar and just as simple to remove. Try to find the most current edition of the Haynes "Subaru 1600 & 1800" repair manual, it supposedly now also includes the XT family, but my copy (printed way back in '98) for some reason doesn't have a single page mentioning the XT.....go figure. The diagrams in it will be a big help in figuring out how not to break anything. Also, the following forum is XT-specific and you may get some good pointers on there: http://subaruxt.com/forum/

[Discombobulated]

Just took mine apart and figured out if you don't get how it comes apart sit and stare at it, and stare at it some more, light pressure doing anything, be careful. Things will break easily, and if you want to do anything like led upgrades do it now the less you have to take apart the dash the better:)

 

Good luck:)

 

 

Disco.

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

On the third gen Subaru Leone / EA82 \ Loyale, I posted a complete Writeup on the Subject; I know it is different than the XT, but I bet that many of the Disassembly Procedures, etc, may apply as well. The writeup is Here:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131336-led-retrofitting-on-instrument-cluster-dashboard-removal-procedures/

 

If the Pictures are not viewable due to Photobucket's monthly bandwidth limit, you can either wait 'till they resets it back to zero, each month, or try this:

 

~► http://3.hidemyass.com/ip-11/encoded/Oi8vd3d3LnVsdGltYXRlc3ViYXJ1Lm9yZy9mb3J1bS90b3BpYy8xMzEzMzYtbGVkLXJldHJvZml0dGluZy1vbi1pbnN0cnVtZW50LWNsdXN0ZXItZGFzaGJvYXJkLXJlbW92YWwtcHJvY2VkdXJlcy8%3D&f=norefer

 

Kind Regards.

[Dinky26]

Here is my LED change

Almost thinking that I should go completly green, & replace the 2 red ones in the middle.

Edited July 9, 2015 by Dinky26

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Looks good, but very Bright!

 

I kindly suggest you to Drive with the Dimmer knob at minimum (Low) position.

 

Kind Regards.

[Dinky26]

Looks good, but very Bright!

 

I kindly suggest you to Drive with the Dimmer knob at minimum (Low) position.

 

Kind Regards.

It's actually not that bright at nite, green seems to easier on my eyes to, which are sensitive to extra lite anyway.

[NocturneVoyager]

I may end up waiting until I can replace the dash pad itself, because it'll probably disintegrate if I try to move it to get behind the instrument cluster.  I appreciate the information though!

[Indrid cold]

I swear on some of those bulbs I was able to reach up behind  and with my finger tips, rotate, pull out little holder, put in new bulb and put back in.  I think the spedometer cable had to be removed, but I could get to a couple of the sockets.  I eventually had to pull the instrument cluster and changed them then.  it helps if you have a spare instrument cluster so you can see where the sockets are located and how to wiggle fingers to that point.