darsdoug Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Just put a new thermostat and water pump on the wife's 280K 96 EJ22. (Nothing compares to having a stuck thermostat while driving to a Easter dinner family get together). Anyhow I was putting the tensioner pivot bolt back in but it was just spinning and wouldn't get a bite. I backed the bolt out and sure enough there was aluminum stuck in the threads of the bolt. I searched my collection of misc bolts but could not find a longer one with the same thread pitch. Slightly annoyed and in a hurry to get it back on the road I coated the threads with ultra grey and buttoned it up. I took it for a nascar redliner test drive around the neighborhood and it's holding. I imagine I'll dive back into it soon so I don't lose anymore sleep over it. Should I heli coil it? I've never done that before. I forgot to check the depth too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 There is room to use a longer bolt (I can't recall if I could get 10, 15 or 20 mm longer) and it was enough to get past the bad spots and get more bite. You could also swap out the tensioner bracket (three bolts holds it onto the block). I ended up getting another while at the pick and pull. I think I paid $5 for it and that solved it (and much cheaper than a helicoil, unless you already have the correct size in your arsenal). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 the tensioner bolts to a bracket that bolts to the block. iirc, the idler does too. just get a replacement bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 the tensioner bolts to a bracket that bolts to the block. iirc, the idler does too. just get a replacement bracket. I wish I would have kept my old 99 block I had for a reference. I have the old style tensioner-a horizontally mounted slave cylinder looking device with two 12mm bolts securing it. Are you certain the idler bolt I'm having trouble with is anchored to the bracket also? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) pretty sure. items #12 & #13 go into the bracket. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_7/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_2/ Edited April 22, 2014 by johnceggleston 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willwright Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 If you do heli coil it, its honestly not that hard at all. The tap will tell say on it what size drill bit to drill it with first. Do NOT drill it deeper that the hole already is. Keep your drill level of course. Then you will use the tap, takes a second to get it started but it will start fairly easily, turn 1/4 turn and back it off , keep repeating that until you go about 1 turn deeper than the bolt needs to go. Back the tap out carefully every turn or so to keep the cuttings out. After your deep enough blow the shavings out of the hole( wear safety glasses please) and the you use the tool that comes with the helicoil to insert the helic9ild into the hole, it will be a little tight going in but not like fighting it tight. Screw the helicoil in just enough so the last thread of it is right below the surface of the hole, note some use locktite in the helicoil but I never have. Once its in there whereby want it, back the tool out and use a punch or something to stick in the hole knock off the tab on the back of helicoil and you're done. Its not as intimidating as it looks or sounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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