Removing Cam Carriers EA82

[Beavis]

I need to pull off my camshaft carriers to fix my oil leaks and sticky lifters, as described at http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/ea82_hydraulic_lifter_fix.htm. I went to get the gaskets today, and neither of the stores I went to had the gaskets. What do I need to ask for?

 

Also, in the haynes manual, it says that the engine must be removed to get the cam cases off. Is this really true? It seems like there's enough room in there.

 

Thanks

[MilesFox]

if you go to napa get the VALVE COVER SET for 85-94. thay are listed as valve cover, although its a rocker cover. beware of the 85-89 listings, as these are ea71 and ea81. the ea82 valve cover set will include the rubber grommets also.get a tube of non aerobic silicone (permatex ultra grey) to seal the cam case to the head. dont forget about the o-rings.

[Beavis]

Should I just take in the old o-rings in to get a match, or can they look up the part number?

 

Does the engine need to come out?

[Snowman]

The SHOULD be able to look up the O-rings, but I would recommend taking the old ones in just to be sure.

 

I've heard of people doing this with the engine in the car, but it looks like it would be a major SOB. You might as well yank the engine and do the rear main seal and oil pan gasket while you're at it. The way I see it, since there is so little room with the engine in the car, that's going to slow you down more than just pulling it out.

[canajun2eh]

The work can be done with the engine in the car. In fact, you can even pull the heads with the engine in place. I've done both several times. However, the rad and front grille should be pulled.

 

Take an old O-ring to your parts store. They can match it. Thickness doesn't have to be exact, and diameter isn't all that critical either.

 

When you remove the cam carriers, keep the lifters and rockers in sequence so that they can be put back into their original locations.

 

Carefully clean the groove in the "head" side of the cam carriers. Use a razor blade scraper to clean the mating surface of the heads. Minor scratches here don't matter.

 

Apply a thin bead of silicone sealant (use the high temperature stuff -- I prefer the copper colour) to the groove of the cam carriers. Don't apply too much, but don't leave any gaps either.

 

Use some grease or vaseline to stick the O-ring in place and to also "glue" the rockers. This will make it a lot easier to install the cam carriers.

 

You should consider replacing the oil pump gasket, oil pump shaft seal, and front crankshaft seal as well as the cam seals. If the water pump is "iffy", now's the time to replace it. Always replace the O-ring that seals the tube from the water pump to the rad. Inspect the little hose from the water pump to the heater input tube, and replace if it's the least bit soft. When you install the oil pump gasket, use grease or vaseline to keep it in the groove in the oil pump body.

 

Check the timing belt idler pulleys. If they don't spin easily or if they make noise when you spin them, take them to a bearing shop and have the bearings replaced. There's no need to buy new idlers from the dealer, and getting junk yard ones is false economy.

 

Your timing belts will be properly installed if, after having lined up the pointer at the back of the engine with the middle of the three scribed marks, one side's camshaft pulley timing hole lines up with the top notch of the rear cover while the other lines up with the bottom notch. In other words, one side points up while the other points down.

 

When you install the valve covers, use new gaskets and also replace the cover bolt seals.