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please help. idle issues


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Tap gas lands back on the lobe fires back up

 

No gas tapping required to get it to fire back up. Once the idle is gone I'll let the car stall. If I try to restart it immediately, it won't start UNLESS I give it gas, and when it does start, the idle is still gone. If I let it stall and then wait approximately 15 to 20 seconds, without touching the gas pedal, it will start right up and idle smooth as the day it was new. It's very confusing.

 

I will be tinkering with those adjustment screws tomorrow after changing out the filter. I will also get a better idea for how it acts when the motor is cold.

 

Thanks for all the ideas guys. Saturday is still my goal. Rain ALL day today. :-(

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Thinking through the pdf on my phone is exactly what I'm doing lol. Troubleshooting a non idle situation the htkysa book mentions to check the anti diesel valve. There's a general description of its location on the carb but I was wondering if anybody has a picture of the exact piece. Htkysa really focuses on gen 2 cars, and as I said, the description is real vague.

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Oh I wasn't thinking that direction, it's possible that you EGR is sticking allowing it to draw excessive air, capped mine with a home made flat gasket using header gasket material, did do a delete cap at one point using a piece of aluminum, flexed too much without a support bar across the center

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Well, I tried it all. Messed with high idle, messed with the idle, checked the auto-choke, tried disabling it, tried disabling anti-diesel valve, sprayed out carb as much as possible with carb cleaner and stuck a tube of compressed air in every orifice I could reach with it, changed the fuel filter, checked every vac line I could see.
I stopped short at checking my fuel pressure and I haven't taken a look at the PCV valve. Would a bad PCV cause intermittent idle issues?

I'm pretty much throwing in the towel at this point. I've got my eye on a weber

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146258-does-this-look-like-a-good-weber-to-rebuild/

:banghead:

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No code. That's not a check engine light, it's just the EGR service light that comes on every 50k miles. Mine came on as scheduled right at 50k, I just couldn't be bothered to connect the wires under the dash to reset it when I had a roll of black tape handy. ;)

Edited by l75eya
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Got the old carburetor off. Most of the useless vac lines are out too.

Prepped for tomorrow. Gotta tap the holes on the intake manifold to accept the Weber's 8mm Allen bolts.

Then hopefully I'll have everything installed shortly after! :-)

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Intake manifold holes. Where the original Hitachi studs were. My weber only came with 8 mil bolts to attach the first adapter plate. Holes on the manifold are 6mm

What screws did you use?

 

I've heard of others using something else too.

 

I'm doing what Jes Zek did in his guide.

Edited by l75eya
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The plate doesn't fit the factory studs? I did an ea81 with no tapping and used a redline plate, but I guess I thought you were going to use the TransDapt rig, which is what I used on my ea82 (Much better adapter w/no threads).

 

*(Remembering) -Actually the ea81 I did was using an ea82/Hitachi manifold, so same, same...

Edited by rrgrr
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+1 on the trans dapt.  I have 2 of them and they fit perfect and they are easy to get to both sets of bolts.  generally around $25 on any website (think i got mine on amazon with free 2 day shipping with prime).

 

either way the adaptor should have everything you need to bolt it on.  If not Id be calling the people who just took 300 bones from you.

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