bratman18 Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 (edited) I drove this home tonight, about 15 miles or so. It took a while, except for down hills. It's really weird. I flat out can't floor it. But if I feather it, it runs ok. But still won't rev very high. But if I floor it, it falls flat on its face and wants to die. I'm really hoping I can get this going. Edited September 30, 2014 by bratman18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 (edited) I just watched the videos. It sounds like it's only running on about 3 cylinders. Does it feel like a "miss", or more like a banana in the tail pipe? Edited October 1, 2014 by Crazyeights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 It's running on all 4 cylinders for sure. It runs great, till you stomp on it, or it hits around 4k rpms. It's definitely more like a banana in the tail pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Have you tried another knock sensor? I wonder if the ECU is pulling back the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 I haven't, but I could try. I didn't think it would cause that big of an issue so I didn't try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ystrdyisgone Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Have you looked into the IAC at all? Not sure if you are throwing any codes, but this thought occurred to me from back when I read this thread: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=136053 Code 24 - Idle Control Senenoid - Air control Valve inoperative (feedback circuit detects fault) - Fail safe is to prevent over-rev by using engine speed and throttle position to cut the fuel deivery - might run rough. Have you checked the TPS sensor? Just throwing out ideas based on what you haven't mentioned already. Good news is, you're running out of possibilities, so hopefully the fix is right around the corner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 I haven't swapped either of those out, but it threw no codes except for the rear o2. Nothing else. And we swapped another intake manifold on from a running car, and it still did the same thing, which would eliminate those anyway. Yeah I feel like it's something stupid, but we've checked everything many times over. It's so discouraging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Check for missing teeth on your crank sprocket. IDK which style you have (the 5 tooth or the million tooth one) but I had a camry do the EXACT same thing on me. WOULD NOT run over 3300 RPM. Idled great, smooth, but nasty and dead after ~3K RPM Lady came to me saying car runs like spoob after timing belt change, but the marks lined up, sensor specd/tested good and no CEL. Prior mechanic had pried the crank sprocket off, breaking a few of the teeth and the ECU would sense a missing/intermittent CKP, but would run and clear the MIL since the senor was "sensing" again. The only other thing I can think of is check for AC voltage. My GG and EA82 did this to me. Would run weird as hell, no CEL, nothing above ~2000 RPM on the GG and above 3K on the EA82 because the outputting AC Voltage was greater than 4 VAC and the ECU would interpret that differently. Turns out the diode trio failed after an engine bath... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 So the oil is overfull, and very thin, like maybe there is fuel mixed in. Any relation to the issues I'm having? What could cause this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 So the oil is overfull, and very thin, like maybe there is fuel mixed in. Any relation to the issues I'm having? What could cause this? Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverhelme Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I didn't read back through this whole thing but it sounds like you may have a bad injector or two that are sticking open. A quick way to check is hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see how fast your fuel pressure bleed down. If it is quick then you have a stuck injector or more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 That could be a possibility, but I even swapped an entire intake manifold from a running car onto my motor and it still did the same thing. Any insight on why my oil is the way it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverhelme Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 The only way you can get gas mixed with you oil is if an injector is stuck open and bleeding gas when you shut down or a cylinder is not firing while you are running ( less likely ). It may or may not have anything to do with the problem of not revving but it is the only way to get fuel mixed in the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hey Jason....You get that harness? Have you had a chance to try it yet? Sorry it wasn't labeled as nicely it was a pull out from my rolled GL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl B. Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 So the oil is overfull, and very thin, like maybe there is fuel mixed in. Any relation to the issues I'm having? What could cause this? I had this exact problem when I first did my swap. It was the front o2 sensor harness. I tried a new o2 harness and it fixed the problem. This is obd2 correct? With the "big plug" o2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hey Jason....You get that harness? Have you had a chance to try it yet? Sorry it wasn't labeled as nicely it was a pull out from my rolled GL. Yes I got it, sorry I haven't been in touch. Worked a week of storm work after a snow storm put out power to over 80,000 people. And I've had my kids every weekend. So time has been stretched. As soon as I get a chance, I'll be getting it installed and trying it! I'm praying it fixes it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 I had this exact problem when I first did my swap. It was the front o2 sensor harness. I tried a new o2 harness and it fixed the problem. This is obd2 correct? With the "big plug" o2? It's 96 Obd II with the 2 o2 sensors......Neither of which has it's own harness.....they are part of the main harness to the ECU. Sounds like you are talking Phase II SOHC 2000+ This model should run reasonably with no O2 hooked up at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl B. Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 It will start with no o2 but not run reasonably with out the front o2. It sounds to me like an issue with the front o2, causing the engine to run open loop, i.e. rich. In bratman18's case very rich if the oil is getting saturated with fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 The front 02 is hooked up. And it was taken out of a running car, so it was good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 It will start with no o2 but not run reasonably with out the front o2. It sounds to me like an issue with the front o2, causing the engine to run open loop, i.e. rich. In bratman18's case very rich if the oil is getting saturated with fuel. Yes it will run fine with no O2........Certainly not the problem. I ran my 2.2 with the same setup an NEITHER 02 sensor for several weeks until I got the bungs welded into the exhaust. Runs fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl B. Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Hey I'm just trying to help. I read through all pages, and you have double checked everything you touched during the reseal. Also Gloyale has verified that your harness is good and your maf is bad. I would assume you fixed that already. Do you have a multimeter and a test light? My next step would be to test the crank sensor, cam sensor, and throttle sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Humor me for a second, I know I am a bit stuborn, but I have fixed THOUSANDS of cars over the years. Have you done an actual compression or leakdown test to make sure there isn't some internal mechanical problem? Before you proceed with your diagnosis? I would gladly come over and help you solve this. I am just too far away Maybe it burned an exhaust valve or something. Just trying to help. Edited January 11, 2015 by Crazyeights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Humor me for a second, I know I am a bit stuborn, but I have fixed THOUSANDS of cars over the years. Have you done an actual compression or leakdown test to make sure there isn't some internal mechanical problem? Before you proceed with your diagnosis? I would gladly come over and help you solve this. I am just too far away Maybe it burned an exhaust valve or something. Just trying to help. I'm definitely not opposed to doing that. I unfortunately don't have access to tools or a place to work on it at the moment. It's been very cold here for quite a while now, and now, after having the flu for a week, there's about 6" of snow on the car. I still need to install the harness that Gloyale sent me as well. I'm not sure what could be wrong with the motor. It ran perfect before we took it out of the legacy. All we did was reseal it and put new timing components on it. And the timing is set right and has been checked 10 times. I really wish one of you guys was closer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Good Luck! Feel better first too, for sure. Like I said if I was a little closer I would come and fix it. Keep us posted... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 So this is finally resolved. It was something stupid of course, but something that wasn't thought to check. I planned on swapping the engine because that was the only thing I hadn't swapped out. I removed the exhaust and decided to try it just for the hell of it. It fired up and revved right to 6500rpms. So I immediately knew it was something with the exhaust. I removed the muffler and tried it, it still did it. I then removed the flex pipe, and it still did it, then I removed the small pipe off the header. That's where I found a small metal object, that looks like the cap to a metal chain link fence wedged in the pipe against the o2 sensor. I don't know where it came from, how it got there, or why it was in there. I do know it wasn't there when I assembled and installed the exhaust, or at least not in view. So it's aggravating that it's taken 2 years to find this, and to not know where this piece came from, but I'm excited to finally be able to finish this piece of the project and drive it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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