MR_Loyale Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) I seem to recall there was a special positioning one could set the camshaft to in order to ensure that no lobes were depressing any valves such that removing and installing the cam tower would be easier. Mainly I want to avoid the rocker arms falling to the floor and my cuss words that will follow. Hey I have been traumatized by Jesus Christ clips. Edited May 8, 2014 by MR_Loyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Have you tried using assembly lube on the lifter side and the valve side of the rocker to hold them in position during assembly? Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) put the tower on withthe roll pin on the cam face at 12 o clock. Using grease or assembly lube helps a lot with cam follower installation. Do replace the o-ring between the cam tower and the head Edited May 9, 2014 by MilesFox 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 You jack up the side of the car that you are working on, maybe 8". This helps hold the rockers on, providing you put some globs of grease at the two contact points. Don't forget the subaru rubberized metal O-ring. And of cours if you want a really quiet engine, a faint touch of gasket maker around the two oil passage contact points. Keep the gasket maker away from the actual oil passage hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 You jack up the side of the car that you are working on, maybe 8". This helps hold the rockers on, providing you put some globs of grease at the two contact points. Don't forget the subaru rubberized metal O-ring. And of cours if you want a really quiet engine, a faint touch of gasket maker around the two oil passage contact points. Keep the gasket maker away from the actual oil passage hole. use an anaerobic or ultra grey sealant and avoid rtv silicone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 I haven't removed the cam towers yet. Just got the engine out of the car. It is hanging like a piece of meat off the engine hoist right now. I was hoping to avoid the rocker arms plinking on the floor when I did this. Sound like it is pretty much unavoidable. I will just lower the engine so it doesn't have far to bounce. Mile - any particular brand of the ultra grey sealant I should use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I have always use permatex ultra grey, but any grey flavor or generic brands like 'mega grey' are all equivalent. These sealants ideal for mating surfaces containing oil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 When I did mine on the engine stand I just rotated the engine so each head was up when I did it. Worked out great. I was wondering how you would do this in the car without swearing too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 The engine stand works great, as you can turn the motor sideways. I havealways used anarobic saeler on the cam cases Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 When I did mine on the engine stand I just rotated the engine so each head was up when I did it. Worked out great. I was wondering how you would do this in the car without swearing too much. OK, what engine stand? Last time I had this out, my brother had the one from harbor freight and it would not fit. Did you make your engine stand yourself? I sooooo want to be doing this on an engine stand. Yeah I am a wimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Leave a couple cam tower bolts lose but still in place when you break free the cam tower. That helps a little with the rockers falling all over the place. Try to keep the rockers organized so you can put them back where they came from. And when you reassembl, use the assembly lube. It's really the only way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 I knew I heard somewhere there was a neutral position on the cam towers. It was in the Miles Fox vid at 1:04 Is "Dot Up" the neutral point on the passenger side as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Leave a couple cam tower bolts lose but still in place when you break free the cam tower. That helps a little with the rockers falling all over the place. Try to keep the rockers organized so you can put them back where they came from. And when you reassembl, use the assembly lube. It's really the only way. Good advice. Yeah I will be getting the assembly lube. I also like to put it back the way it came so not having the fall out when I take it apart is a big step to insuring they don't get mixed up. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 OK, what engine stand? Last time I had this out, my brother had the one from harbor freight and it would not fit. Did you make your engine stand yourself? I sooooo want to be doing this on an engine stand. Yeah I am a wimp. harbor freight works, you just have to orient the arms all cray, such as the bolt points all the way in the middle so you can get it narrow enough for the engine studs, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I have the inexpensive harbor freight stand. You have to get a little creative to make it wirk. I can take a pic of how mine is set up, I actually have a ea82 on it as I type this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 I have the inexpensive harbor freight stand. You have to get a little creative to make it wirk. I can take a pic of how mine is set up, I actually have a ea82 on it as I type this. Yes yes yes yes!!!! Please post a pic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 has it dawned on any1 yet ? The question of the original post - the answer is the three lll marks for setting timing belts as it puts the cams in a neutral position so the valve springs don't fight against things and try rotate the engine via the camshaft to crankshaft. I think this one position no turning does it for both sides, just you ned to observe the one rotation to get it right easily on belt install though ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Jono, the timing belts are not installed yet. He is putting the cam towers on. Doesn't matter where the flywheel is... not until you put the belts on. Non-interference motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 (edited) Mainly I want to avoid the rocker arms falling to the floor and my cuss words that will follow. . I've got a way to accomplish that. When removing,loosen all the cam tower bolts, but just loosen them, don't remove them. Back them out just a little bit more - until the heads are only a 1/2" or further out, then knock the cam tower loose (2x4 & hammer) but the heads of the bolts are only partially removed that 1/2" so the tower won't go far, just nudges out a little bit. start small, then back them off a little more if you need more room. it's loose enough that they stay in place but have enough play to pull the rocker arms off individually by hand and mark them if you want to reinstall in the same position. Done this way - you don't even have to worry about how the cam lobes are loaded necessarily, the loosest ones will come out first, then continue backing off or rotate the cam. but i think i usually rotate to the unloaded position. they all rusted away around here years ago so i've only done like 2 in the last 8 years. It's a lot of words to describe - but it's really simple to do, hopefully that makes sense? i also try to jack the side of the car up to give you some gravitational advantage on keeping the arms in place on reassembly. Edited May 10, 2014 by grossgary 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 (edited) I've got a way to accomplish that. When removing,loosen all the cam tower bolts, but just loosen them, don't remove them. Back them out just a little bit more - until the heads are only a 1/2" or further out, then knock the cam tower loose (2x4 & hammer) but the heads of the bolts are only partially removed that 1/2" so the tower won't go far, just nudges out a little bit. start small, then back them off a little more if you need more room. it's loose enough that they stay in place but have enough play to pull the rocker arms off individually by hand and mark them if you want to reinstall in the same position. Done this way - you don't even have to worry about how the cam lobes are loaded necessarily, the loosest ones will come out first, then continue backing off or rotate the cam. but i think i usually rotate to the unloaded position. they all rusted away around here years ago so i've only done like 2 in the last 8 years. It's a lot of words to describe - but it's really simple to do, hopefully that makes sense? i also try to jack the side of the car up to give you some gravitational advantage on keeping the arms in place on reassembly. Actually that makes perfect sense. I will try that method. Probably going to do this tomorrow morning. I want to get at the HLA's and get em off to Mizpah. The motor is already out and currently hanging like a side of beef off the engine crane. Edited May 10, 2014 by MR_Loyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 has it dawned on any1 yet ? The question of the original post - the answer is the three lll marks for setting timing belts as it puts the cams in a neutral position so the valve springs don't fight against things and try rotate the engine via the camshaft to crankshaft. I think this one position no turning does it for both sides, just you ned to observe the one rotation to get it right easily on belt install though ! This is half true. at the III mark, one of the ams is newutral, and the other is inder spring. you will have to rotate 360 to make the other cam neutral, as the first one is now under spring. This only applies when the belts are engaged with crank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Jono, the timing belts are not installed yet. He is putting the cam towers on. Doesn't matter where the flywheel is... not until you put the belts on. Non-interference motor. Oh ? I read the thread title as wanting to remove the cam towers first, and that is how I have done it. Also done it on a stand that I had to make up an adaptor, then spun it so gravity was on my side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Actually that makes perfect sense. I will try that method. Probably going to do this tomorrow morning.. Good, wasn't sure those words were making sense, but it's really simple and works well for exactly what you are asking. I've done it in the vehicle this way many times, working on a stand this is going to be a cake-walk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Just pay special attention to each rocker anyway. I used grease in car, checked, but did not double check as I did them...needed a tyre lever and luck on my side to get the bugger back in line ! There was a big PHEW! soon after Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 I am sure some cuss words will be necessary. Got real lucky on the crank bolt though. I forgot to bust it loose before I took the engine out. I was sure I'd use a week's worth of cussing getting it loose. Followed Mile's suggestion about using the air impact wrench and with once zip of air it was loosened. I did the happy dance on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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