Ej22 hardness swap & hookup to ea82 help.

[Suba_GL_87]

Hey,

We have a ej22 harness.. Everything is set from srj company.

It's 91' legacy to 87 GL;

 

We need to know where to hook up ea82 (fuse-box, engine, starter, fuel pump and hot wires) from ej22 harness.

We would like help for correct connections. 'hookup' on ea82 fuse box, ingtion systems, fuel pump, engine check. Before fire up.

Thanks.

[KootenayJK]

The info you need is in the "EJ swap" thread.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/67098-please-read-ej-swap-write-up-ver-20-now-in-pdf-form/

 

It is, in a way, simple. But can also be very time consuming. You will want to have the wiring diagrams for your car handy. If you have never done anything like this before, you might want help from someone who has experience with it.

[Suba_GL_87]

It's does not help.

Most of those links don't help because they're old websites.

Yes, I see that all info for swap.

But I need right way to hook up ea82 fuse box from ej22 harness. I notice not really a lot of info for swap harness hookup to ea82 wires..

[Crazyeights]

There isn't much info because you don't need much. It really is that simple when you break it all down. There is a post on here EJ swap 10 wires or something like that. I just completed another EJ swap harness and the engine starts on the floor with only 2 wires once it is all plugged in. Constant power and key switched power.  The rest of it you just have to figure out. Here are some notes I have collected from posts on here from all of us, un-edited, and in no order. Credit to the original authors is left in place where available. I didn't write it, but it is full of good info. Care to clean it up go ahead.

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 

care to mention those 10 wires here? I am just trying to see if I got my harness right.

So far I got:

 

Radiator
Relay

VSS

Fuel Pump

Power to
Fuel Pump/Main Relay

Neutral
Position Switch

Check
Engine Light

Starter
Wire to the ECU

Ignition
Wire to the ECU

Test Mode Connector(? technically already on the donor by itself)

Tach Signal

 

anything
I am leaving out?

 

You're gonna want temp, and oil pressure, i wired in a fan seperate, as its much
easier than integrating the both together. unless its OBDII, you don't need the
VSS. The neutral position switch is over rated, and the test mode connectors
are all there, the single green and black connectors. Tach signal is a black
blue wire, you'll have to look very carefully cause it just looks like any
other black wire.

You need to find the yellow wire from Coil and Igniter, and reconnect it to the Ignition
switched wire for the Ig. Relay. (that wire should also have been a yellow feeding a few sensors and solenoids power,
and then, going into a diode, then out as Light Green to the ECU
"on")

 

The way the harness is setup, many folks cut this wire as it's junction is way up near
the underhood fusebox. It's alright, it kinda needs to be cut and spliced
longer to make the harness work elegantly anyhow.

 

A/C wires, and state ID can be cut out. Neutral/park/and auto/manual swithes
depends on the swap. What year trans are you using? does it have a neutral
switch in it?

 

i have 2 wires from sensors, 1 on the block the other 1 on the water cross over. which i
have not attached, im guessing they need to be tapped in or are they just for
gauges? they are the single pronged sensors see pic below

 

Those are for temp gauge and oil pressure dummy light. They will connect to the
Yellow/green and Yellow/Black wires of you're cars original engine harness
respectively. Install a 270 Ohm resitor between the Temp wire and ground to
correct the gauge reading from EA to EJ.

 

IAC issues.

Yellow = 12v+ center pin

white = close (ECU grounds to close)

Black = open (ECU grounds to open)

 

ok fuel
pump relay...thick yellow is constant power thick black? does this run to the pump?

green comes form ecu and at a guess thin yellow wire needs switched power, not constant?

 

The thick yellows are constant, the thin yellow is Ig. Switched.......supplys the relay,
the Igniter, and coil....then on the diode, comes out Light green for ECU and
fuel pump "on"

Black is ground.

 

ok i did think oil and water sensors, thanks for confirming.

it is all powered correctly now and fuel pump relay is ecu controlled. spark at all plugs

 

ok now for the extra wires from the ecu,

 

- aircon wires i will remove

- fan control will be removed

- state id will be removed

- atmo sensor?

- neutral switch?

- park switch?

 

It is a auto ecu and i will be running a ej d/r 3.9 5 speed

 

You will want to use the fan control wire to trigger a relay (ground side) of a relay.
More reliable than the switch in radiator.

 

Atmosensor is built into ECU....shouldn't have any wires.

 

Cut the Auto/Manual wire to signal manual.

 

Hook the neutral switch wire to the neutral switch on the trans. (grounds when in
neutral) ignore park wire(cut)

 

Although,
if the IG. relay is gone, may need to check that all item supposed to be
powered actually get power when you wire it up. the big yellow wire (Batt+)in
particular feeds power to lots of stuff before it goes to the relay, so things
like the Transistor, IAC, Vent solenoid, etc... may not be in the loop still.

 

Well I found out values for the ej and ea gauges

 

at 122*F there is 187.6 ohms at 248*F there is 19 ohms on the EJ gauge on the EA gauge it reads as follows

158*F is 72 ohms

248*F is 16.1 ohms

 

The supplier for the oil line and fittings is Paragon Performance in Lake Arrowhead, CA.

 

http://www.paragonperformance.com/

 

I got them to fax me the invoice but all it had are descriptions, no part numbers,
anyway, here goes:

 

8" -04 female st. to st. Teflon hose assembly.............$13.10

#4 st. male, AN flare to 10mm x 1.0.......................$11.15

-04 Alum. Straight AN to 1/8" NPT Adapter.................$2.10

Alum. pipe bushing, 3/8"/1/8".............................$9.10

Alum. pipe coupler, 3/8"..................................$9.65

 

Note that
8" of hose was barely enough to get the sender positioned where I have it.
Depending on where you want to mount it you may want to order a longer hose.

 

Their entire line of adapters is on the website, it just takes some poking around to
find them all. They also make custom stainless lines, in whatever length and
with whatever connectors you want, I had some made for my three-wheeler,
they're very nice and not too pricey either. I'm pretty sure you can get DOT
approved lines as well.

 

Reply With
Quote

ECU

Manifold
sub-harness connectors

Ignitor

Cam sensor

Crank sensor

Knock sensor

O2 sensor

MAF sensor

 

Alternator connections

Grounds
(one's used by remaining components)

FP Relay

Ignition
Relay

FP/Ignition
power

ECU power

ECU
backup power

Power
supply diode pack

CEL ground wire

VSS signal wire

Neutral switch wire

Start signal wire

Tach signal wire

 

I might be missing some..... as I said that's from memory.

 

GD

 

 

Uhh....no codes if you do it right. I've used 3 Auto ECU's now.

 

NO CODES.

 

You have to do one of two things:

 

1) cut the AT/MT discrimination wire, and wire up the ECU correctly for a MT, with
Nuetral switch (since you're RX is already MPFI, your trans should have the
switch)

 

2) If you don't have a neutral switch, leave the AT/MT pin grounded, so it thinks it's in
an Auto. Then the trick is you have to tell it it's in "P" all the
time so ground the "P" pin.

 

Interesting....
So it won't throw codes if it sees the vss signal and the park signal at the
same time? That would seem like a large oversight on the part of the software
engineers. If I wrote that software I would be calling the park switch bad at
that point. I guess if it works without codes that's great. Im guessing that
probably wouldn't fly on the OBD-II's. I would never have thought to try that -
thanks for the info.

 

GD

 

There is an AT/MT identification wire on the '96-'99 ECUs, but you have to add a pin
there for it to work.

 

 

It's absolutely possible to use -'99 EJ ECUs that came from a car with an auto with
a manual without any CELs

 

Went to NAPA today and got fuel line, shorty belt for alternator (thanks again for the
part number) and found the perfect hose for the upper radiator. It has the ej
inside diameter on one side and the ea diameter on the other side. It is napa
heater hose number 7564. I have a 4/3 lift and i shaved about 1" off the
ea side and it fits perfectly

 

Another trip to NAPA and found radiator hose number 8987. This worked perfect for my
lower radiator hose. I trimmed about 1.75" off the radiator side and it
was perfect. Now I need some new clamps for my heater core hoses. The stock EA
hoses seem like they will be fine for now. If I can get the coolant filled I
think I can plug everything in and see if it works. I got my fuel pump hooked
up yesterday. I hope I didn't screw up the harness.

EJ22T
auto trans is 95% identical. However there are a few internal differences. (#
of plates in clutch packs, higher stall TC, stronger springs in the accumulator
pistons)

 

As long as everything trans wise is matched, it will work fine. i.e. Turbo trans, turbo
flexplate and TC, and turbo TCU. If you are keeping the NA trans in your car, just use the old NA TCU, flexplate and TC
too.

 

As for engine wiring. There is one more pin used in the ECU connector. (Boost pressure
solenoid) Also.....Crank and Cam sensor pin location is switched on the Turbo
ECU.

 

You could run the turbo ECU and engine off of the stock harness. A few pins switched, and
a few new wires run.

 

Otheriwise, get the whole harness from the Turbo car and strip it down.

 

OBD I
EJ22? just switch the cam and crank angle wires, add the wires for wastegate
control and pressure sensor, reroute the temp sensor wiring (it's on the other
side of the coolant bridge), and you're done. don't need a whole merge.

 

Yes - as Numchux says they are very simple. Obviously you will also need the EJ22T ECU
as well as the changes he outlined. The turbo only added the boost control
stuff and changed a few wireing pins.

 

Also I will mention that the few wires which need to be swapped can be done at the ECU
pins with much less drama than out at the actual sensors since many of those
wires are sheilded, etc.

 

GD

I went through hell with charging on my last swap. In the end, I did not hook up the EA wiring at all. I ran the
B/W wire from the EJ harness to the wire for the charge light. And the
Yellow wire from the alt get's switched volts from a fused source.

 

*note
about yellow wire: that wire
has a diode on it. after the diode, it is green wire, two of them. One goes to
the ECU, and the other goes to the IG. relay trigger. If you cut out the diode,
and supply power straigh to the green wires, the car will still run, but the
ALT won't get it's signal volts.

So you need to make the connection to that wire before the diode.

Edited May 11, 2014 by Crazyeights

[TOONGA]

While this page details the build into a VW it has lots of information

 

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=136053

 

hope it helps

 

TOONGA