Need Some Help: 2008 Legacy Torque Converter Won't Seat

[benfbrown]

Hoping someone can help with this situation. I read some of the other threads and they were helpful but my issue isn't resolved.

2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5 non turbo with the 4 speed automatic. We were pulling the engine to take care of the head gaskets and the torque converter slid forward a little but during the engine pull.

Caught it and thought we had it reseated but when we mated the engine and transmission up after the head gasket and head work, the engine would not connect to the transmission. Like an idiot, I thought it was the side pins and didn’t realize that it was the torque converter until I had tightened down the bell housing bolts. Of course, the gap would not close.

Unbolted it and pulled them apart. Tried to reseat the converter but it just wouldn’t make it the last little bit (in what I think is the 3^rd section of the spline).

I pulled the converter and I checked the oil pump shaft clip and it is seated fine. I then tried to even seat the converter without the pump shaft to see if I could get it to fit and it would not go on.

I read that you can pull the input shaft and install that first BUT my input shaft will not pull out.

 

So, I am stuck and am wondering a couple of things:

 

1. Did I damage the converter when I tried to mate the engine to the trans and is that why it won’t go on now?
2. Why won’t the input shaft pull out? Everything I have read indicates that it is supposed to just pull right out.
3. What should I try next?

I’m hoping someone has some insight or ideas and can help get me out of this mess!

 

Thanks!

[Fairtax4me]

Oil pump in the trans is probably cracked now. That is almost a guarantee if you force the engine and trans together when the torque converter isn't seated properly.

 

I think there is a circlip at the end of the input shaft which requires some effort to get it to pop loose. I don't remember for sure though. I've never had to reseat the torque converter on a Subaru. I always take extra measures to make sure it doesn't move. The can of worms you open by removing the TC is way more effort than bolting a wrench to the bellhousing to hold the converter in place.

[1 Lucky Texan]

Oil pump in the trans is probably cracked now. That is almost a guarantee if you force the engine and trans together when the torque converter isn't seated properly.

 

I think there is a circlip at the end of the input shaft which requires some effort to get it to pop loose. I don't remember for sure though. I've never had to reseat the torque converter on a Subaru. I always take extra measures to make sure it doesn't move. The can of worms you open by removing the TC is way more effort than bolting a wrench to the bellhousing to hold the converter in place.

 

 

Is there a diagram or video of this wrench bolted to bell housing trick?

 

also, maybe one of these drawings will show the shaft's circlip;http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_18/automatic_transmission/

[benfbrown]

Oil pump in the trans is probably cracked now. That is almost a guarantee if you force the engine and trans together when the torque converter isn't seated properly.

 

I think there is a circlip at the end of the input shaft which requires some effort to get it to pop loose. I don't remember for sure though. I've never had to reseat the torque converter on a Subaru. I always take extra measures to make sure it doesn't move. The can of worms you open by removing the TC is way more effort than bolting a wrench to the bellhousing to hold the converter in place.

Sadly, that is exactly what I was thinking, too. Thanks for the input.

[jarl]

Well... it happened to me. Again

While trying to remove the engine it didn't come out straight (I think something got caught on the exhaust) and the bolt on the passenger side of the engine got jammed. In my efforts to dislodge it the tip of the torque converter apparently got caught on the hole on the rear of the camshaft, and when I pulled the engine again the TC got dislodged. Yippee...

 

Now... I didn't tighten any bolts, so hopefuly nothing is broken/craked.The question is:how do I know?
And then the obvious: I reseated the torque converter on my '99 when I replaced the engine, but now I can't seem to be able to re-seat the TC on the '01. Was there a change or something? Or is there a trick to do it?

Fairtax: how/where do you bolt the wrench to the bellhousing?

[Fairtax4me]

Is there a diagram or video of this wrench bolted to bell housing trick?

Fairtax: how/where do you bolt the wrench to the bellhousing?

No video that I know of off hand, but there's probably one somewhere. I'm not the one who came up with this idea.

 

Basically, get a bolt that's about 3/4" longer than the width of the upper bellhousing. Get a nut and a fender washer to fit the bolt. When you get the engine and trans separated about an inch, slide the bolt into the top corner bellhousing bolt hole, put the box end of a large wrench, about 3/4", on the bolt, point the other end of the wrench towards the center stub of the TC. Slide the washer on, then the nut, then tighten it up. It doesn't need to be he-man tight. Just tight enough to keep the wrench from moving.

 

Now as long as you didn't drag the TC out that far while trying to get the engine loose, it will stay seated properly until you've put the engine back in.

When you get the bolts out of the TC and its free from the flexplate, take a big screwdriver or prybar and pry it back away from the flexplate. Should move back about 1/4" and disengage the pilot stub which will help keep the TC from sliding out when you separate the bellhousings.