98 Outback Front Differential Retainer - Didn't mark before removal

[jet8300]

So, long story short I screwed up the seal and decided to remove the side retainer. I had no idea that it was so critical, but should have known better. Anyways, I removed it because I screwed the seal up, but now I have no clue how far to reinstall it. Someone please tell me there is a way to set it again without removing the transmission!

[lmdew]

I've done a few.  I always punch mark the trans and the retainer and then turn it tight and punch the retainer again to align with the trans housing punch mark.  

 

I try to count the turns coming off but putting it back in counting turns can be hard, so I turn it by hand until it bottoms, the second set of punch marks aligned most often and then back it off until the first punch marks align.  Usually about two teeth (for lack of a better word of the bosses on the retainer).

[jet8300]

Actually I forgot to mention that not only did I remove the retainer without marking anything, but I need to replace it with a new one because I scratched it all up and broke parts of the dang thing off. I tried to remove the seal from the outside before reading about how to replace it.

 

 

So even if I did mark anything it would not be useful.

 

I'm really kicking myself here. I am usually so much smarter than this.

Edited May 20, 2014 by jet8300

[Fairtax4me]

 

Can you tell where the lock plate was on the ring? If you can see that then you're golden, if not just turn it until it stops then turn it back about 2 teeth like lmdew said.

 

Clean up any rough spots with sand paper and/or a file before putting the new seal in the retainer ring. As long as you didnt screw up the threads it'll be fine.

[jet8300]

I have to replace the entire retainer because I damaged it beyond repair, not just the seal. So I'll have to try bottoming it out and then backing it up. Thanks guys. Hopefully this works. I can't find a source for a used seal/bearing retainer so I'm going to have to buy a brand new one.

[Fairtax4me]

U-pull junkyard. Or post in the classifieds here. Someone will have a parts transmission laying around and can ship you one.

[idosubaru]

you don't need to remove the transmission.

 

one year ago this month i was in the same place as you. when replacing that seal, i marked and counted. then installed the wrong seal (they are directional, one for each side with arrows on them?) and in the process of recognizing that, removing and reinstalling the correct seal...i forgot the number of turns.  i think it was 7?  maybe it was 6?  8?  as an engineering student i never forgot numbers, now i forget numbers all the time. lol  drove it about 10,000 miles before it had noise, got worse, then had issue for a couple weeks, it got demoted to me driving it instead of my wife, then it locked up in my driveway.  i now have two transmissions on the floor repairing the damage.

 

if i had it to do over again i would at least call some local transmission/rebuild shops and see what they charge to slap some dial gauges on there and do it right - or get dial gauges and do it yourself.  the FSM has the proper procedure in it. i tried to contact a Subaru guy from a forum that does trans/front diff stuff but he never got back to me, should have contacted a few others.  they can do it on the vehicle with not much really in the way of labor except set up, so to that end it shouldn't be that costly.  Subaru probably just replaces the diff but they'd be worth a call, they have the resources to do it right at least and the proper technical avenues.

 

front ring and pinions sets are $700 from Subaru minimum, plus more if you replace the seal tube, bearings, seals while you're in there. and the labor is 3 times worse than the cost.

 

here's my thread from last year, maybe with some helpful information:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138286-front-diff-seal-retaining-ring-lost-count-of-turnswhat-sounds-right/?hl=%2Bfront+%2Bdiff

[jet8300]

What if when I pull a new retainer from the u-pick junk yard, I mark the thing where the locking bracket goes and then I count the turns backing out? It should be close to my car, right?

 

I have the FSM but I can't find the part where it says to use a dial indicator. I thought I'd read in a different thread about this that the transmission has to be pulled out to get the gauge where it needs to go.

 

Worst case I end up ruining this diff and I get a used transmission or diff for 200 bucks. This is a 98' Outback with an automatic. 

[idosubaru]

i asked that same question and others said that's not a good idea, but yeah if you're willing to try it, i'm sure it has a significant chance of working.

the answer to "will it work" has a statistical answer, not a black and white answer. how much risk do you like to take and how much do you care?

 

there's a 60% (something high) chance of success.  that's good and it'll likely work.

there's a 40% chance of failure - that's terrible odds for something so labor intensive and costly.

 

it sounds like you don't care too much to just buy and install another transmission in which case go for it.

 

my understanding when i was talking to Gloyale about this (he's done a bunch of front diff dial gauge adjustments, is that the dial gauge in this case goes through the differential drain plug and measures the ring and pinion contact there and can be done on the vehicle.

[bork]

Well I hate to pull out old thread, but I also changed out seals without knowing better, or did the passenger side blindly. So after about 5000 miles, front diff started acceleration growl & now its leaking. tiny hole punched out, in bottom, from inside. (drain oil & found tooth). Will back off ring two notches, but I'm sure it's for only buying time for a tranny. Anyone have a good recomendation for junkers in western MD. & maybe labor. Not sure if I want to attempt swapping out trannies.