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Ticking coming from from axles?


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You may want to check the bearings.  Grab hold of top of tire and push and pull hard.  If it goes klunk klunk, then you need new bearings.

 

Otherwise, check your torque on the axle castle nut.  Sometimes you have to slightly overtorque to get things to quiet down.  I torqued mine to 145 ft lbs, then moved to next free slot on the nut to get the pin in, but before I put the pin in, I rotated one more notch, then pinned it.  Seemed to make a big difference.  Not 100% quiet but I  can live with it.

 

You may also need to check the washers beneath the axle nut.  Some folks say they replace them and lose a lot of noise.

It's not just noise. It's HARSH squealing and clunking and popping. I'm going to have subruise look at it soon. I don't enjoy it

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Something stuck in the brakes?

I thought maybe that was the case too. But the brakes cleared when i took em apart. The rotor was a bit wobbly though. Probably just because the axle is not in and tightened down ? 

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 The rotor was a bit wobbly though. Probably just because the axle is not in and tightened down ?

 

Did you remember to put the spacer back in between the bearings when you did the reassembly?  Or maybe it wasn't seating completely ?

Edited by Dee2
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 The rotor was a bit wobbly though. Probably just because the axle is not in and tightened down ?

 

Did you remember to put the spacer back in between the bearings when you did the reassembly?  Or maybe it wasn't seating completely ?

The spacer is in there. It was wobbling around inside there when i was putting the axle in...dont really know my problem. 

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What about the hub itself? If the rotor was a bit loose, it's bolted to the hub, so maybe that has play in it?

How does the rotor bolt to the hub other than the castle nut on the axle? it has to spin right? Or is there bolts in the middle? 

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How does the rotor bolt to the hub other than the castle nut on the axle? it has to spin right? Or is there bolts in the middle? 

The hub is the splined piece that the rotor bolts to. It spins with the rotor. It's attached to the rotor using 4 14mm head bolts. That is what the cone washer sits into when you put the axle but on. The splines can wear out, causing sounds, and also allowing the axle to slip inside on the hub.

Edited by bratman18
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The hub is the splined piece that the rotor bolts to. It spins with the rotor. It's attached to the rotor using 4 14mm head bolts. That is what the cone washer sits into when you put the axle but on. The splines can wear out, causing sounds, and also allowing the axle to slip inside on the hub.

That would be stinky. The splines looked fine when I pulled the knuckle. Still something I'll have to go over though. 

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Are you 100% sure that the remaned axles you got wern't junk out of the box?The last remaned axle I got clicked,and vibrated,and made all sorts of sounds.I was chasing the noise they made until they blew up with 26 miles on them.They left the factory with like no grease in them and promptly burned up.When they failed the CV cup turned blue from the heat.I never thought that the NEW axle I bought would be DOA, so I looked at everything else.I checked the play on the bearings and there was a small amount but not bad but the tire didn't spin freely with the caliper not mounted so I replaced the bearings.Didn't fix the problem...not many miles later I needed 4x4 just to even move,and I still finished the wheeling trip with RWD only.

Edited by Uberoo
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Are you 100% sure that the remaned axles you got wern't junk out of the box?The last remaned axle I got clicked,and vibrated,and made all sorts of sounds.I was chasing the noise they made until they blew up with 26 miles on them.They left the factory with like no grease in them and promptly burned up.When they failed the CV cup turned blue from the heat.I never thought that the NEW axle I bought would be DOA, so I looked at everything else.I checked the play on the bearings and there was a small amount but not bad but the tire didn't spin freely with the caliper not mounted so I replaced the bearings.Didn't fix the problem...not many miles later I needed 4x4 just to even move,and I still finished the wheeling trip with RWD only.

Maybe the ones I got are just junk. 

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"100% new" not rebuilt like all the other ones out there. Supposedly they only have a 9% return rate on there axels, which the ones you bought are prolly close to 95% haha... Also the big deal about these guys also is they designed a 90+ ej slip yoke axel that articulates 50% more than oem axels.

 

Not sure why its so cheap though, could be there trying to promote there product by offering a lower cost?

 

Worth a shot

 

Prwa

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