De-Smogging - LET'S DO THIS!

[Bratwerst]

First off, vehicle is an 89 EA-81 Hatch that must have originally been from California.  SO MANY HOSES!!!   Now that is past the emissions exempt date I will no longer need to pass emissions.  She's not running how she should and with all of these hoses, canisters, filters, switches, and who knows what else it's hard to troubleshoot my lag in throttle response.  About 10 years ago I de-smogged an 83 EA-81 BRAT and it purred after I sorted it out.  However, that was 10 years ago and I cannot remember what systems were vital to basic operation. 

 

So here's what I'm asking:  Which of these hoses/canisters/switches that I have labeled are essential?  

 

I know I need the EGR, Vac line for the Disty, and the Vac. actuated secondaries for the carb.

 

So here are the pics to make things as clear as possible.

 

 

Thanks for reading... also if anyone has a picture of thier stripped down hitachi manifold or a picture of my old BRAT's that would be very helpful.

Edited June 5, 2014 by Bratwerst

[Bratwerst]

Here's the rest of the pictures - like the strange little switch on the pass. side of the manifold that hooks up to the metal emissions tube branching off the exhaust via a lone vac. line.

[Bratwerst]

I finally found one blurry-as-crap picture of my old engine that helps out significantly.  What is shown is precisely what I'm trying to replicate.  I also found a picture from when I was swappng from Old-Nasty to new, not helpful but I think it's worth sharing.

[Crazyeights]

I finally found one blurry-as-crap picture of my old engine that helps out significantly.  What is shown is precisely what I'm trying to replicate.  I also found a picture from when I was swappng from Old-Nasty to new, not helpful but I think it's worth sharing.

In my opinion the best way to address this is a nice properly done SPFI swap. That way all of the original stuff can come off in one huge lump for some later purpose. Trust me you will NOT miss that old carb for a second. The other solution would be a Weber conversion (much less work). Have fun and please post more pics of rest of the car!

[Bratwerst]

I'm not looking to do any swap actually. If I'm swapping anything it will be the EJ22 sitting on the garage floor... later on when I've got more time/space. Buying a whole setup will cost money plus there's waiting for one to surface. I've had a brat with a stripped down Hitachi that ran great & strong for years. I've also had a weber on my lifted wagon but that's another $250.

 

Eliminating this oddball emissions stuff will cost practically nothing and will tell me if there is something up with the carb (then I'll drop the $$$ on a Weber)

 

Thanks for the post either way, spfi's are nice.

[l75eya]

For my weber I left the vac advance and the HVAC controls. .... That's it.

 

With a Hitachi, I can't see it being much different so long as you cap all the lines you take off.

[Bratwerst]

I tore into it today and elimated a ton of crap - some of it clearly faulty. My throttle response has also gotten much closer to what I think it should be. Anyone know what that single small vacuum line that goes through the passenger side firewall is? Looks like it goes into the area behind the glovebox. To be safe I kept it hooked up to the manifold vacuum but eliminated the little switch dealy that it went through.

 

Thanks for the responses

[two85s]

Good luck with the project...I'd like to do similar with my wagon if I lived in a different zip code.  I guess our California air doesn't mix with the rest of the earth's air....then these smog laws do make sense.  I thought EA-81s ended in 1984? Thanks for posting what your doing.  I read a good thread about this a while back and more members should chime in. 

[Bratwerst]

EA81's went up to 87 with brats & 89 with hatchbacks. It's a cool little car

[l75eya]

that vac line you mention sounds like the HVAC controls. Pass side? To confirm pull it off and see if your hvac controls switch (vent, defrost, etc)

Also, be careful with your fuel lines. Being that you're sticking to the hitachi, I'm pretty sure you can't mistakenly disconnect them, but check them out. Three lines coming from the driver's side firewall area. One big main. Two smaller lines. One is a vent, the other is a fuel return line.

And if I recall, the anti-afterburn valve is connected or tee-ed in to one of those gas lines so if you get rid of that, you have to plug something. Make sure you have no fuel leaks.

[Bratwerst]

Thanks on the HVAC - that makes sense & I'll try what you mentioned. I left the fuel delivery and canister alone as they actually serve a clear funtion. It was this crap I wanted gone. That table is all stuff I removed and the engine only runs better!

[djellum]

on the hitachi it will have a bowl vent that used to go to the charcoal canister.  it will be one of the larger orifices.  if you really want to get it tuned in nice you will have to properly restrict it.  it needs to be restricted just enough to balance pressure.  for me I stretched a much smaller hose onto it and left the hose about 3 ft long.  nothing scientific in my approach, just was randomly trying ideas and that one seemed to get it right.

 

basically it keeps the pressure in the fuel bowl right, otherwise your carb wont manage its fuel right.

 

the rest seemed to work fine when plugged.