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Pricing input needed; '92 Loyale


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Hello again folks,

 

So I'm looking at seeing how much I can get away with selling my wagon for in its current condition and thought what better people to ask about such matters than you all. Given the list of issues below, what would be a fair price to ask for? I was thinking $750-900. Thoughts?

 

1992 Subaru Loyale 5spd 4x4 (White w/stock Subaru hubcaps)

Odo - 214,417.8 mi

 

- Blown passenger side speaker

- Cracked windshield

- 4x4 isn't working (light is flickering-no idea why)

- Steering wheel pulls slightly to the right (hit the front passenger wheel assembly hard months ago on a curb on wet pavement)

- Missing cargo area carpet

- Stereo knob is broken off

- Passenger side window needs adjusting (friction between glass and door when raising)

- Lift supports are shot

- Wipers are worn

- Minor rust here and there

- gash in headliner towards back/matching dent in hood above gash

 

 

All in all, I think $750-900 is more than acceptable--$750 being rock bottom price for a good running vehicle--and I'm hoping to either get a CRX or possibly a BRAT...maybe a Justy...money and time will determine which. If I fixed all the above fixes I think I could get $1000+ for it, but I don't know squat about the PNW auto market, hence why I'm here posting this. I'll post pics later of the wagon to give you all a better idea of its condition.

Edited by Great White Buffalo
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Single range...and there's no way I'm letting it go for $500. That's insane. Asinine even. It runs, drives, and stops w/o issue. $500 isn't far from what you can get for scrapping it or having it hauled off. I realize I probably won't get $900 for it, but $750 is rock bottom and more than reasonable. I've seen one's on CL sell for more w/blown head gaskets.

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Just my .02

4wd isn't functional
pass side might need new outer tie rod
or outer and inner tie rods

or new ball-joint

or new control arm

or ALL of the above
And if the 4WD isn't working because of 1 or both rear axles
You're talking a good chunk of change just to get all those things fixed.

It really depends a lot on what exactly is wrong with the 4wd and what's bent/needs replacing on the front pass wheel

If it's just that it needs a new outer tie-rod and a vac line reconnected to make the 4wd work, I'd be more willing to meet the $750 asking

If the 4wd needs new axles and all those other front end things need done I'd be leaning more towards $500

Just being honest with what I'd be looking for. It IS a 200k + mile car. Windshield alone is gonna be $200.

Good luck with the sale! Got any pics?

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175eya is on point, and He is East coast, where they are few, almost none here in the Midwest.  Seems like there are many still in good shape in the PNW, where I guess you are trying to sell it. Compare it to what's on CL where you live.

A 200K  car from the 90's is on borrowed time for most of the gp.

Just saying if you don't sell it to a 'subaru person', the value will not be recognized, -to others it's just an old beater, putting tires on it might be a risky investment to some. Good luck finding it someone that will love it.

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Yeah its pretty hit or miss on prices.  It seems people think they are worth a lot, even when broken.  With all the problems you have listed you may have a hard time getting what you want unless someone already has a pile of parts to use.  Then again I have never paid very much for my cars.

 

90 Loyale - Free

85 GL - $250

83 BRAT - $400

82 Sedan - Free

82 DL - $200

85 GL - $200

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Here in the rust belt, a clen example can fetch 1500, be on par in price with used first and 2nd gen legacy. the last one posted for sale in the MW that i saw was half dented, half rusted out, had inoperable windows, bad exhaust, wanting 600.

 

my opinion, in today's market, any catr that RUN AND DRIVE without needing to go into major work to be daily driving is worth rondabout 1000 bucks

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Yeah its pretty hit or miss on prices.  It seems people think they are worth a lot, even when broken.  With all the problems you have listed you may have a hard time getting what you want unless someone already has a pile of parts to use.  Then again I have never paid very much for my cars.

 

90 Loyale - Free

85 GL - $250

83 BRAT - $400

82 Sedan - Free

82 DL - $200

85 GL - $200

hahahaha!! this is so true!

 

88 gl turbo for 200$

90 loyale free

 

although i just sold my wifes 93 loyale for 1200$ but it was pretty perfect and ran like a champ.

 

Pretty much your car is only worth what someone wants to pay for it. took me sevral weeks to sell her car, right guy came and payed cash.

 

PRWA

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Around here because these cars are so uncommon, a pristine example with low miles would fetch close to 2,200. My car I bought for 1200. It was pretty mint outside, but the frame rails had been welded. Its got rust in the quarters. What it had going for it though was dual range 4wd and only 46k on the odometer.

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I appreciate the input folks.

 

As Miles stated, I firmly believe any vehicle that runs/drives AND is capable of being a daily w/o substantial work-is in fact, worth decent money.

 

Now yes, my wagon has 214k and ticking plus the laundry list of items. To be honest though, the windshield doesn't affect how it drives, nor do the other non-aesthetically pleasing issues i.e. missing carpet, undone panels, etc.

 

The biggest thing is the 4wd and pass front wheel issues. My wagon's getting 26mpg average so there doesn't appear to be binding. The truth is, $750 is more than fair for someone to drop on a car they can drive home. I doubt I'll get $900 for it, but the exterior is clean (more or less) given the age. Just needs a good pressure wash bath is all...and wiping down the interior plus shampooing/vacuuming the carpets wouldn't hurt.

 

As for what others are selling here in WA, Loyales entailed, I've seen them go from $600 to $2000, depending on issues and mileage. Here are about four for sale right now:

 

http://skagit.craigslist.org/search/cto?query=loyale

 

Here is a '94 Loyale 4wd 3AT for $700 that has issues including an axle fix. Granted, it's only 182k on the odo, but it doesn't come out of first gear.

 

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/4504166223.html

 

So all in all, screw it...I'll post my wagon AS IS for $1000 and see what nibbles I get. Let's go fishing! Haha

 

Regards, Buffalo

Edited by Great White Buffalo
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So, I posted my car a couple hours ago here:

 

http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/4510594468.html

 

I don't expect to get $1000, but it's a good starting point for negotiating. The car runs, drives, stops, signals, etc. It needs the 4wd fixed and has a cracked windshield but that's the only major issues.

 

About an hour after posting the ad (before I got pics/details up) I had a guy come out and look at it and he test drove it. Said he wouldn't pay more than $600. I told him I wasn't comfortable letting it go for less than $700 cash on hand. He tried bs'ing me about the brakes, saying they felt spongy...no they don't. He also doesn't know squat about Subarus-he said so before test driving it. All vehicles are different so...whatever. The dude wanted to buy the car for his 18 yr old kids who's coming into town soon and would drive it for all of 3 weeks, only to turn around and sell it.

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that $700 Loyale is a steal! Holy hell I wish the prices were like that out here. That thing is mint, all it needs is a new gov. gear to fix the trans. Easy fix and less than $100 part. Matter of fact I saw one in the classifieds on here awhile ago for $20 brand new. Wow...

All the other ones are over-priced and the OBO is going to come in to play. The guy asking 2k for that green wagon? Insane.

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Yea, I wanted to tell the guy he was smoking crack for wanting to buy it for $600. I told him straight up its my daily and its safe since he tried arguing the point that it wasn't safe enough for his 18 year old...the same kid he won't allow to drive his new ford F250. Sheesh. People...so, thoughts on my car folks? How's it look?

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- Steering wheel pulls slightly to the right (hit the front passenger wheel assembly hard months ago on a curb on wet pavement)

 

 

This seems like an important safety issue to leave out of your ad, unless you fixed it.

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