TheWanderer Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) Well, its been one of those days. Was on my way to my first full day at my new job, and the 88 EA82 DL died. Was 2 minutes away, and the CEL and oil light came on, and the engine just died. No bucking, nothing, just straight dead. Now all it does is crank and crank, with no fire. Has had new plugs and wires within the last 2000 miles, current mileage is 94,600 and 9/10 (didnt even get to that last full mile over >_> ) I have fuel spraying from the injector while cranking, so I know its not a fuel delivery problem. My question is, does this sound like a thrown driver side timing belt? From what I've read on the forum, this is the likely culprit, since the driver side belt operates the oil pump, as well as the distributor, correct? This would explain the oil light coming on, as well as the no fire if that is the case. Its currently sitting at a shop waiting to be looked at tomorrow morning. If it is the timing belt though, it won't be fixed until at least monday when the parts get here, and even then I can't afford to fix it since everything I had $ wise is wrapped up in my recent move to start work last weekend. I am leaning towards the belt(s) definitely though, seeing as everything else on this car is all original I wouldn't be surprised if the timing belts are as well...but if thats the case, I'd say they've done their job well, given they are 27 years old and almost 100k miles on a 60k mile service part What a day....lol. When it rains it certainly pours Edited June 7, 2014 by TheWanderer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprjohn Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Sorry to hear that brother. I know the feeling. Keep on, keeping on! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWanderer Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 Thanks John. Definitely not how I wanted to start out with my new job, especially as adamant as they are with attendance. And since I'm going thru a temp agency, it not only reflects badly on me but on them as well :-/ I've got to figure this out and have it fixed by Monday or I'm screwed and will have no job, and all of this will have been for naught Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 You may want to check the codes on the CEL for any clues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWanderer Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) You may want to check the codes on the CEL for any clues. Checking codes on these older non OBDII subarus always drove me nuts. The details have never really been quite clear to me on how to do it. I know with this car I have to connect a couple different connectors and count the flashes, but I have no clue where the connectors are, or where the light is to count flashes. Any other non OBDII vehicle I've had to check codes on, one would count the flashes on the check engine light. Is it the same with these cars? Honestly, the only non OBDII subaru I've ever had any luck checking codes on was my 92 SVX...The connectors were under the driver side kick panel next to the fuse box. Think there was a green one and a black one, and to check codes I connected the 2 black ones together (its been about 3 years since though, so perhaps I'm wrong). Would it be the same with the EA82 cars as well? Edited June 7, 2014 by TheWanderer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprjohn Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 There was a thread on this not too long ago. There are two sets of connectors near the fuel filter, fire wall, drivers side. One set it green, one set is white if I remember. One shows driveability codes, one shows code history (if I remember right). The green connected are also connected to set static timing. The ECM is located just above the steering column. It has a small red LED that flashes to indicate codes, long and short pauses. You may have to remove some of the steering column trim tho see the light clearly. I'll look in the shop to see if I saved my old belts. You could site have them to get you by... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWanderer Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 I know the connectors you are talking about John And I think I saw the thread you are talking about, I remember seeing something about the green connector has to be together when setting the timing, otherwise the ECU will advance it and it won't be set right. I used to have a link to a page that showed how to read codes on all the different non OBD subarus, as well as a list of what each code meant across the different platforms. But for the life of me I have no idea where it went or what page it is any more lol I think I have something worked out as far as getting new belts (hopefully) but if all else fails I'll definitely get in touch with ya. A good used belt is better than no belt/no car at all The shop has the car in the bay now looking it over, I have to call them back in a few hours so we'll see what the verdict is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 You may want to check the codes on the CEL for any clues. His CEL on;y came on because the engine died from the timing belt. Unless the CEL was on while the engine was running there is not a point in checking codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWanderer Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 His CEL on;y came on because the engine died from the timing belt. Unless the CEL was on while the engine was running there is not a point in checking codes. Correct, and I suspect that is why the CEL came on. I've never seen the CEL in this car since I bought it in February, and once I replaced the CTS and pugs/wires, she ran like a top. When the car died yesterday, it just threw an oil light and a CEL, then nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 OIl Light and CEL will be on any time that the key is on, and the engine is not running. They do this every time before you start the car.....or any time you stall it......or when a T-belt breaks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWanderer Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) OIl Light and CEL will be on any time that the key is on, and the engine is not running. They do this every time before you start the car.....or any time you stall it......or when a T-belt breaks I should have clarified I know they are on with all the other lights with key on engine off. Part of the self diagnostic (POST) test for all the sensors/indicator lamps. Most of the non OBD cars I've worked on (if not every non OBD car) has/had this function. What I wasn't sure of is if this is common when the timing belt goes or not. I've read elsewhere that of the passenger side goes, the car will still run, albeit in limp mode on 2 cylinders. I've also read that when the timing belt on the drivers side goes, the car pretty much just dies and wont start again (like what I am experiencing now), due to the fact that it runs the oil pump as well as the distributor, correct? I'm no expert when it comes to timing belts (or these older subarus for that matter), hence why I asked (so far I am only speculating based on the limited info I've read here on the forum). I don't do my own timing belts, I'm not comfortable setting the timing (especially on interference engines, perhaps not so much on these cars since they are non interference). Looks like it may be time to learn and invest in a timing light and extra belt set to carry in the car for roadside repairs Edited June 7, 2014 by TheWanderer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWanderer Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 Well, the verdict is in...Driver side timing belt is snapped as I suspected. Parts are about $150 for a Gates component kit and water pump, and labor is going to run me ~$225 with new coolant and shop supplies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprjohn Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 If you've got no place to work, that might be worth it. I don't see the old belts in my shop. I must have trashed them. :-( It's the shop does it, see if they'll leave the covers off; easier repair next time. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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