angerthis Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 i know the coil and distributor are good because i pulled them out of a running car and still no spark what else can i look for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Coil bracket w/the transistor mounted on it if not already swapped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 does the dist turn when you crank the engine ? if not then t-belts could be your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 ya i did change that at the same time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 ya i just did t belt as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 what else should i look 4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 (edited) Power on coil negative. Disty wiring.opens, Make sure the coil bracket is well grounded, Edited July 3, 2014 by naru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 check all fuses and links Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Like Naru stated, you need to verify power is getting to the plus and minus sides of the coil when the ignition is on. Also verify fuse 5 in the dash panel is good and has power to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Like Naru stated, you need to verify power is getting to the plus and minus sides of the coil when the ignition is on. Also verify fuse 5 in the dash panel is good and has power to it. you say i have to have power to the + and - sides of coil? so put my multi-meter - to a ground and the + to coil and then do the same for the - side? i should have power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 you say i have to have power to the + and - sides of coil? so put my multi-meter - to a ground and the + to coil and then do the same for the - side? i should have power Exactly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 you say i have to have power to the + and - sides of coil? so put my multi-meter - to a ground and the + to coil and then do the same for the - side? i should have power Disconnect the plus wire from the coil. Touch the ground with one multi meter lead and another lead toughing the disconnected wire. With the key in the ON or START you have to have battery power there. While you have the coil disconnected you have a chance to check it's continuity using your multi meter set to ohms. Good luck, Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Disconnect the plus wire from the coil. Touch the ground with one multi meter lead and another lead toughing the disconnected wire. With the key in the ON or START you have to have battery power there. While you have the coil disconnected you have a chance to check it's continuity using your multi meter set to ohms. Good luck, Sam No need to disconnect anything. Power on coil negative proves coil continuity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 No need to disconnect anything. Power on coil negative proves coil continuity. I agree and this even eliminates the need to check the continuity but battery voltage on the plus wire will give you information that at least at this point there is no problems here. Regards, sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 I agree and this even eliminates the need to check the continuity but battery voltage on the plus wire will give you information that at least at this point there is no problems here. Regards, sam I still would compare the ohm reading to the known good coil. Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Unless the coil is open or the wiring on the minus side of the coil has a short to ground on it you should se voltage on both sides of the coil using ground as reference. If the minus side wiring is shorted to ground the coil body should get hot if the ignition has been left on for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 so i just got back to working on this thing and still have no spark i did as you said to test the power to the coil and it has power + and ~ sides but it reads 7 volts that is not right RIGHT? i did notice i have No breaking right on the ecu at all is the ecu at bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 I recall power eadings on the coil of my Series 1 EA82 T mpfi coil which is a bit different to yours but, the readings were positive power both sides of about 12V with IGN ON, not while running. Your last statement needs rewriting with maybe some punctuation or more words for me to understand what you asking pics say a 1000 words sometimes..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 what about the ecu is it good if there is no blinking light what so ever thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 what about the ecu is it good if there is no blinking light what so ever thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 someone might be able to say whether you need to interrogate the ECU first, by way of the procedure of whatever it is with those green diagnostic connectors connected. Or maybe if the dash check engine light flashes or lights up - maybe the ECU is ready to give code for any error. Usually if there is no blink LED means all is OK WITH THE COMPONENTS ECU TALKS TO, but surely no blink LED is sure sign ECU is healthy the blinkng LED circuit might have stopped working too ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 it is acting like there is no power to the ECU the check engine light dont even come on with key in the on position the bulb is good i did put an ECU out of an 88 gl that i no is good in the 92 got that ECU to bleak but car would not start put the 92 ECU in the 88 it bleaked but no start this car has me stumped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 so i just got back to working on this thing and still have no spark i did as you said to test the power to the coil and it has power + and ~ sides but it reads 7 volts that is not right RIGHT? i did notice i have No breaking right on the ecu at all is the ecu at bad? ya let me ree-right this one the other guys that i was talking to sad to check the power to the coil i did what they sad to do and i only get 7 volts with the + side un hooked key on i Touch the ground with one multi meter lead and another lead toughing the disconnected wire and only get 7 volts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angerthis Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 So does anyone else have any Ideas? This thing has me stumped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 No power to ecu. CEL and and LED should be on with Key on/Eng off Check fuses and fusible links. Check ground bolt on the intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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