Dee2 Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 1990 Loyale sedan, under the passenger side front end, looking at the axle: Which of these 5 do you remove to get the axle off the transmission stub ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 1 and 2. Requireing, two, 14mm and 12mm wrenches respectively. also helps to remove the 2 radius rod bolts to let the arm drop down and ease reinstall. 17mm nuts, 19mm heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 2 radius rod bolts -- which are those ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 2 radius rod bolts -- which are those ? On top of the control arm between 2 & 3. Just visible in your pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 I usually remove the bolt above 3 ( balljoint pinch) less to undoo and then the whole unit moves about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 I usually remove the bolt above 3 ( balljoint pinch) less to undoo and then the whole unit moves about Those are often stubborn in rustbelt areas......and the balljoint can be damaged. And after TOO many prys and pinches, the casting can crack......ask me how I know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 I'm with Scott, I always pull from the ball joint pinch bolt. Even on newer subarus. But in california it rarely takes more than a nudge to release a BJ. A floor jack helps reinstalling the BJ, but be mindful of the threads. The 2 radius bolts suck to remove imho, I never touch them unless I have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 I usually remove the bolt above 3 ( balljoint pinch) less to undoo and then the whole unit moves about Just 3 ? no others ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 (edited) Well, I removed 1 and 2 and got the axle out. Not too bad to do it this way. Next time I may try just removing 3. I do have another dilemma though. The inner bearing came out with the axle and I doubt if I can salvage it without making it unusable. So, I will plan on putting new bearings/seals in also. Since I only removed bolts 1 and 2, am I going to be able to put the bearings in or should I plan on removing the whole dang thing ? This is what I did last time which is why I was hoping to find a shortcut this time. Edited July 13, 2014 by Dee2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Not 3, the bolt above 3. It will allow you to separate the spindle from the ball joint. The balljoint slips into the spindle and is pinched with that bolt above #3.It's not very easy to separate the control arm from the balljoint (if you tried #3) with out a BJ tool and BFH.If this is your first attempt taking the front assembly apart.. perhaps using Gloyales method would be better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 Not 3, the bolt above 3.... My bad I understood what you meant but used a wrong reference. I did follow Gloyale's method this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Well, I removed 1 and 2 and got the axle out. Not too bad to do it this way. Next time I may try just removing 3. I do have another dilemma though. The inner bearing came out with the axle and I doubt if I can salvage it without making it unusable. So, I will plan on putting new bearings/seals in also. Since I only removed bolts 1 and 2, am I going to be able to put the bearings in or should I plan on removing the whole dang thing ? Success! There are always more than one way to skin a cat, I prefer nailing to a tree and using vice grips (catfish). You can replace it miles fox style still attached to the car. I always pull the spindles and do them on the press (instead of BFH). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 I'm with Scott, I always pull from the ball joint pinch bolt. Even on newer subarus. But in california it rarely takes more than a nudge to release a BJ. A floor jack helps reinstalling the BJ, but be mindful of the threads. The 2 radius bolts suck to remove imho, I never touch them unless I have to. Newer subarus it is easiest to mark and removed the 2 bolts that hold the knuckle to strut. I digress On EA's the BJ is often very hard to get propely back into the hole in the knuckle once the axle is back in. They can get cocked and stuck going back in.....epsecially in "over stock" lifted rigs, or in rusty areas........worse if both.... And plus for me it's just the cast knuckle issue. Cast knuckle should be spread/clamped as few times as possible. That is why I do them the way I do now. Seen 2 broken ones from repeated prying/clamping. 2 radius rod bolts can be easily zipped off with a 17mm socket on an impact or wratchet, and a 19mm wrench.......takes less than a minute.......You don't need to remove the bolts either.....just need to take the nuts off and drop the arm down. How can that be harder than the pinch bolt fight? Hammering in a screwdriver to wedge it open, bangin, spraying PB blaster, banging again to fight the arm out the bottom (which it doesn't want to do without removing swaybar links and radius rods anyhow) No thanks. But to each there own method to skin this cat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 I think I have salvaged the bearing so I can reuse it. I will have to replace the inner seal. The reason for this project is that the outer boot split open, but when I looked closer at the axle, I also found that the old axle is not exactly correct, it is type 87AC and this vehicle should be using 82AC so I will not be rebooting but rather replacing the axle. Found a new axle at Cost Less Auto for $52 with lifetime warranty. Has the same part number (SB-8003) as Oreilly which lists it for $60. Tough part now will be to put back in the bearing and seal. I'm hoping not to have to remove the hub assembly off the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 I also found that the old axle is not exactly correct, it is type 87AC and this vehicle should be using 82AC so I will not be rebooting but rather replacing the axle. It really doesn't matter which joint type......they speced the smaller 82AC joint on 4wds I guess figuring in rough conditions people will use 4wd so all axles spread load. FWDs got he 87ac since front axles do all the work....all the time.....weird huh? You could even run Turbo 3at axles which use the 92ac joint but still have 23spline stubs........basically as long as it's an EA82, 23spline axle it will work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 I have an 82AC on the other side. This is the type called for with FWD 4-door sedan and AT. So, I am going to put the same on this time too. But it is good to know that others work equally well. The failed boot was one I put on about 2 years ago. I am disappointed it didn't last longer. Even the edges of the boot were showing a lot of cracking/weathering and general deterioration. Hopefully, this replacement will last a bit longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 Well the 2 radius rod bolts don't budge, even with a breaker bar and lubricant. I can't recommend that step. Appears I will have to go back to the long route, no shortcuts, and completely remove the cast knuckle from the car in order to seat the bearing. There's just not enough room to work underneath and this bearing does not want to go in easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share Posted July 14, 2014 (edited) So, I gave up on the radius rod but the good news is I was able to tap the bearing into place while it was on the car. I put in the seal and it looks good. I was able to reinsert the new axle into the cavity without dropping the control arm and I was able to start the axle through the bearings. I had to remove bolt 4, the steering knuckle. Turns out it was quite easy and I should have done that in the first place -- live an learn. With 1,2 and 4 open, the axle install on the trans. stub was no problem. Pulling the axle through the bearings was tough, as expected. Got everything reassembled, torqued down and took a test drive. Got rid of an old grinding noise but there is a new slight squeaking noise. I think I'll leave it for now, drive a while then re-torque the axle nut and see what develops. thanks for the help and tips. Edited July 15, 2014 by Dee2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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