Subinoobi Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 So I can't seem to find solid facts about this. If I lift my loyale 2" in will I need to extend my steering shaft? If so what's the easiest way to do this? I read somewhere I can use an outback steering coupler and be fine, does it matter if the coupler is slightly longer than needed or will that mess everything up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 i don't think you need a steering extension for most 2" lifts. i've never needed steering extensions for 2" lifts on XT6's. i think it may depend on how you do the lift. 1. most people just install the strut top extensions. in that case you don't. 2. if you install the strut top extensions and for some reason want to install drop blocks for the crossmembers as well like is done on 4"+ lifts, then the steering coupler needs extended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarocket Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 From my research, because I am doing the same thing, there is quite the debate on this topic. Some people say that you can do the strut top lift and it works fine because you are within the acceptable range of the cv axles flexibility. Just don't turn to full lock or accelerate hard. On the other hand, if you use spacers on your cross members and extend your steering column, your car will be much closer to stock angles and last much longer. Grab the front cross member and trans crossmember spacers off a 95-99 outback and a steering coupler off a 90-94 legacy. This is advice from some other thorough members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c5h5nino Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 I just did a 3" strut lift (front & back) with 2" drop blocks for the engine, tranny and rear diff. I had to extend the steering shaft by 1.3". To extend the steering shaft: Remove the shaft. Scribe a line across the middle section to ensure the shaft goes back together in the correct orientation after cutting it in half and welding it back together with the extension. cut it in half at the center weld. cut a piece of bar or pipe to the desired length (I turned down the ends of the extension on a lathe so the extension slipped into the cut halfs of the steering shaft). Weld it in place (make sure you dunk it in water as you weld as the temps from welding are not good for the rubber seals in the steering shaft) making sure the lines you scribed previously line up. Install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 It all depends on what type of lift you are getting. If you only get strut top spacers then you will not need a linkage extension as the crossmember is staying in its stock location. This will cause your axles to be pushed down 2" over the stock configuration. Yes it will lead to a faster wear time and some added stress. If you get strut tops and cross member blocks your axles will remain at the correct stock angles but you will need a linkage extension to make up the difference. I ran my car with a 2" lift for about 8000 miles and broke a few axles. Then again i purposly didnt drop the crossmember to gain as much ground clearance as possible for offroad. Street Car and light offroad - 2" Struts and Crossmember and possibly diff drop Heavy Offroad - 2" Struts only, or larger lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subinoobi Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 I'm actually now considering a 3" lift, but regardless I want to drop my subframe as I don't want to go through axles. For some reason I just really don't like the idea of cutting my axle shaft and welding it back togother, I really want to go with a coupler. From my research, because I am doing the same thing, there is quite the debate on this topic. Some people say that you can do the strut top lift and it works fine because you are within the acceptable range of the cv axles flexibility. Just don't turn to full lock or accelerate hard.On the other hand, if you use spacers on your cross members and extend your steering column, your car will be much closer to stock angles and last much longer.Grab the front cross member and trans crossmember spacers off a 95-99 outback and a steering coupler off a 90-94 legacy. This is advice from some other thorough members. So to those who can verfy this, combined with my research, a 90-94 legacy steering coupler will work perfect for a 2 inch lift and dropping the subframe 1 inch, and a 96-99 outback steering coupler will work perfect for a 3 inch lift and dropping the subframe 2 inches. Does thise info seem accurate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 So to those who can verfy this, combined with my research, a 90-94 legacy steering coupler will work perfect for a 2 inch lift and dropping the subframe 1 inch, and a 96-99 outback steering coupler will work perfect for a 3 inch lift and dropping the subframe 2 inches. Does thise info seem accurate? This is accurate for EA82 wagon/sedan/coupe w/ power steering. Manual steering is differenent. Also XT's are different. both need longer couplers. I'm actually now considering a 3" lift, but regardless I want to drop my subframe as I don't want to go through axles. For some reason I just really don't like the idea of cutting my axle shaft and welding it back togother, I really want to go with a coupler. We are talking about cutting the STEERING COUPLER.........and extending it........... NOthing about cutting axle in half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subinoobi Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 This is accurate for EA82 wagon/sedan/coupe w/ power steering. Manual steering is differenent. Also XT's are different. both need longer couplers. We are talking about cutting the STEERING COUPLER.........and extending it........... NOthing about cutting axle in half. Oh you mean cutting the joint of the original coupler and extending it. I'm still a little ify on that idea I'm not the best welder. So the outback coupler will just fit right in a 3 in lift with no cutting or modding required. Right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Oh you mean cutting the joint of the original coupler and extending it. I'm still a little ify on that idea I'm not the best welder. So the outback coupler will just fit right in a 3 in lift with no cutting or modding required. Right? Yes, cut the shaft in half and then weld a new section in or sleeve it. I have my subframe dropped 4 inches and with a properly built joint it should be stronger than stock. Not sure about the outback joint, looks like its supposed to work with a 2" subframe drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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