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I have a 1991 legacy 2.2L Automatic full time 4 wheel drive. and just found a 1997 Legacy GT 2.5L Automatic Transmission 4 wheel drive Would like to know if the transmission from the 2.5L would be capable in my 2,2L ie: wiring harness,gears, etc. Thank you in advance for your help. 

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if the wiring connectors are the same it will plug in and run,

but the final drive ratios are different,

the 97 GT auto has a 4.44 ratio,

the 90 lego has a 4.11 ratio.

 

a 90 - 91 legacy trans will fit,

or 95 - 98 legacy with a 2.2L engine would work, L, LS, brighton

or a 93 - 98 impreza with a 2.2, or 1.8L engine.

 

you can not use an auto trans from a 2.5 L car.

you can not use an auto trans from 99+

you can not use an auto trans from 92 - 94

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if the wiring connectors are the same it will plug in and run,

but the final drive ratios are different,

the 97 GT auto has a 4.44 ratio,

the 90 lego has a 4.11 ratio.

 

a 90 - 91 legacy trans will fit,

or 95 - 98 legacy with a 2.2L engine would work, L, LS, brighton

or a 93 - 98 impreza with a 2.2, or 1.8L engine.

 

you can not use an auto trans from a 2.5 L car.

you can not use an auto trans from 99+

you can not use an auto trans from 92 - 94

so if i swapped the rear diff and

the wiring connectors are the same

or make them the some do you think it will work?

4.44 is that a better gear?

my girlfriends car and i have had to reemoov the rear

drive line because of its binding is so bad it feels like 

it was going to rip the car in half 

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so if i swapped the rear diff and

the wiring connectors are the same

yes it will work.

 

 

 

 

4.44 is that a better gear?

 

worse for fuel economy,

more engine rotations per mile

higher RPM at 60mph.

 

better for ''quick off the line'',

faster acceleration.

 

 

 

my girlfriends car and i have had to reemoov the rear

drive line because of its binding is so bad it feels like 

it was going to rip the car in half

why not just fix the transfer clutch.

 

do you have a blinking light on the dash at start up?

the power light i think?

this could indicate a bad duty C solenoid.

 

are all the tires the same:

make,

model

size,

tread pattern,

tread depth,

inflation?

 

have you changed the trans fluid lately?

 

all 3 of these thing can cause binding.

 

why are you attached to the 97 GT trans?

is it free?

if so instead of swapping the whole thing,

just swap in the rear extension housing with the entire trans fer clutch.

it is probably less work than a trans swap.

 

or just buy a matching trans at www.car-part.com

Edited by johnceggleston
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yes it will work.

 

 

 

worse for fuel economy,

more engine rotations per mile

higher RPM at 60mph.

 

better for ''quick off the line'',

faster acceleration.

 

 

why not just fix the transfer clutch.

 

do you have a blinking light on the dash at start up?

the power light i think?

this could indicate a bad duty C solenoid.

 

are all the tires the same:

make,

model

size,

tread pattern,

tread depth,

inflation?

 

have you changed the trans fluid lately?

 

all 3 of these thing can cause binding.

 

why are you attached to the 97 GT trans?

is it free?

if so instead of swapping the whole thing,

just swap in the rear extension housing with the entire trans fer clutch.

it is probably less work than a trans swap.

 

or just buy a matching trans at www.car-part.com

can you tell me more about swapping out the extension housing ? 

and yes do you have a blinking light on the dash at start up

power light the car and trans have over 3030k on it i just put a new motor

in it well 170k like new would like to fix the trans and see if she can go for another

300k  

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and yes do you have a blinking light on the dash at start up

power light the car and trans have over 3030k on it i just put a new motor

in it well 170k like new would like to fix the trans and see if she can go for another 300k 

the blinking power light indicates there is an electrical problem in the trans,

since you have torque bind,

it is probably the duty c solenoid which controls power to the rear wheels.

 

the duty c is located in the rear extension housing on the trans,

it contains the transfer clutch which controls power to the rear.

do a search for ''torque bind, duty c solenoid'' and you will have tons to read.

you can remove it and replace it with the car in the drive way on jack stands,

probably in a half day.

i plan on all day.

 

some of the same work a pulling the trans,

drop the exhaust,

drop the drive shaft,

catch the ATF,

but you do not have to lift a 300 pound trans back up into the car.

 

it depends which way you want ot go,

easier cheaper fix , replace the duty c, about $100 part, maybe cheaper,

and maybe have to do something again later,

or long term, hopefully one time fix, replace the trans.

of course when installing used parts you never know.

 

the auto trans in these cars are very reliable, and hardy,

if maintained, change the fluid, the will go the life of the car.

but at 300k, how much life is left?

 

one the on hand a used trans will have fewer miles,

but you will not know the service history.

what it the service history of your trans.

 

by the way,

my son drove my 95 legacy L sedan for over 40k miles, 5 years in college,

with the rear drive shaft removed, because of binding.

i always meant to fix it but never did.

he just drove it.

i sold it as FWD.

and the girl was glad to have it.

 

if you are looking for a parts car, just keep looking for the one you really need.

like a bargain, there will always be another one to come along.

but if you are in a hurry,

then buy what ever you want and go for it.

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the blinking power light indicates there is an electrical problem in the trans,

since you have torque bind,

it is probably the duty c solenoid which controls power to the rear wheels.

 

the duty c is located in the rear extension housing on the trans,

it contains the transfer clutch which controls power to the rear.

do a search for ''torque bind, duty c solenoid'' and you will have tons to read.

you can remove it and replace it with the car in the drive way on jack stands,

probably in a half day.

i plan on all day.

 

some of the same work a pulling the trans,

drop the exhaust,

drop the drive shaft,

catch the ATF,

but you do not have to lift a 300 pound trans back up into the car.

 

it depends which way you want ot go,

easier cheaper fix , replace the duty c, about $100 part, maybe cheaper,

and maybe have to do something again later,

or long term, hopefully one time fix, replace the trans.

of course when installing used parts you never know.

 

the auto trans in these cars are very reliable, and hardy,

if maintained, change the fluid, the will go the life of the car.

but at 300k, how much life is left?

 

one the on hand a used trans will have fewer miles,

but you will not know the service history.

what it the service history of your trans.

 

by the way,

my son drove my 95 legacy L sedan for over 40k miles, 5 years in college,

with the rear drive shaft removed, because of binding.

i always meant to fix it but never did.

he just drove it.

i sold it as FWD.

and the girl was glad to have it.

 

if you are looking for a parts car, just keep looking for the one you really need.

like a bargain, there will always be another one to come along.

but if you are in a hurry,

then buy what ever you want and go for it.

so i no this is a lot of work for a used part but can i put the duty C solenoid from the 97 in to are 91? 

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Tried the FWD fuse in the engine bay on the passenger side firewall? I think this was an option on those early legacies. Solves some torque bind issues by running the car in FWD. 

 

If that doesn't work/isn't an option, pull the driveshaft and drive it FWD. 

 

Worth a look before replacing the trans. You can keep it FWD or just keep a good running vehicle until you're good and ready to replace either the duty C or the trans.

Edited by AdventureSubaru
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so if i swapped the rear diff and

the wiring connectors are the same

or make them the some do you think it will work?

4.44 is that a better gear?

my girlfriends car and i have had to reemoov the rear

drive line because of its binding is so bad it feels like 

it was going to rip the car in half 

 

You would need to swap to a correct Trans computer for that gear ratio in addition to swapping rear diff.

 

If not the Rear VSS will be out of synch with the front VSS you will end up with Torque Bind.

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