darnold Posted July 27, 2014 Share Posted July 27, 2014 So I rolled the dice at an auction and bought an 05 legacy sedan. Beautiful condition, 185 000 kms (114 000 miles) You're not allowed to drive them before the auction so it wasn't until after I bought it that I realized that the clutch slips when you step on the gas hard in 2nd and 3rd. I have a shop and plenty of experience replacing clutches on other vehicles. I am seeking any tips or advice to help make my life a little easier. I found a video online for a legacy gt that was very helpful from legacygt.com. I'm thinking it will be the same without the turbo stuff. I didn't catch in the video how the shifter disconnects from the transmission. I'm wondering if I will have to dismantle the console. This car replaces the 96 legacy that I cleaned up a deer with right after I replaced the automatic transmission. Its a big step up. Such a lovely car. Thanks in advance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 If it's the same setup as my 03 baja then there are 2 roll pins I believe and one bracket that need to be removed from under the car.... Once you get everything out if the way you can clearly see all if the linkage and it is pretty easy to identify what must be disconnected... But I didn't have to go into the center console at all. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 No digging around in the console at all. The lower part of the linkage attaches with a large bushing. Remove the nut and plate and slide the rod towards the drivers side off of the stud. Then youll see the joint where the shift rod attaches to the trans, just unbolt the rod from the joint. Much easier IMO than driving out those roll-pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logic23 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 take the engine out its waaay easier than the transmission. while its out check for oil leaks and/or do the timing belt. At 185,000 you need to check the cogged idler pulley ( part of the timing belt set up) to see if its been replaced if not its about to fail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darnold Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 I did the clutch today. Because I have access to a pit I used the transmission method. I only moved it 4 inches so didn't have to pull the CVs. It took 5 hours on my own. I had help lining the transmission back up during the assembly process. I removed the flywheel and cleaned it up with a mild abrasive disc. It was pretty easy to see why it was slipping because the old friction disc was a quarter the thickness of the new one. What an amazing difference. It engages so smoothly and close to the floor like you'd expect. What a pleasure to drive. Well worth $330 and five hours of my time. Thanks for all the helpful advice. I will consider the timing belt next. I will check the threads for more info... There's lots of it here from lots of very experienced people. Thanks again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darnold Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 So after my clutch replacement I'm noticing a light squealing noise when the clutch is released. It goes away if you even rest your foot on the clutch. I'm thinking that I need a slight adjustment on the slave cylinder but I'm not sure whether I need to load the release bearing more or less. Any ideas would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 If it's just a 'light squealing noise', I wouldn't rush into doing anything. Leave for a few days (and lots of clutch operations), and it may go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darnold Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 Ok. Thanks a lot. The old clutch was very worn making me think that the previous owner had backed off preload on the bearing to get grip on the clutch. Should the release bearing be always touching the pressure plate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 There is no position adjustment for the slave cylinder. The spring inside the cylinder sets pre-load and can not be adjusted. The master cylinder pushrod can be adjusted in order to adjust pedal height. This does not affect the slave cylinder rest position. Unless the squeal gets worse I wouldn't worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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