Mykeys Toy Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 (edited) Since my gauge works (tested to be sure) I am now down to wiring. Just wondering if someone with a gen2 FSM might look to check the wiring colors and which pin the fuel sender uses at the dash. This will be my weekend project. Yay! Don't know if it matters but it is an early 83 model.. The one in my avatar. Mike Edited August 2, 2014 by Mykeys Toy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Anyone? bounce TTT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 sorry no FSM for that year wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 when dash cluster is out just follow from the gauge to the pin via the pcb tracks and maybe lay down a new wire. If you have the fuel/temp combo gauge one has a component in it to reduce Voltage to 7 V for gauge stability -you'll see 7V link between the two in pcb tracks. Maybe check before unplugging to se if 7V is present with engine running first ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted August 8, 2014 Author Share Posted August 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks Jono traced it back and made a jumper to reach the length of the car to the sender. It took a while but I did find the other lead. It is in a plug instead of the pins. Funny I have continuity on both wires.. Sooooo I swapped clusters with one known to be good turned the key and everything works but the damned gauge. So a little update and a little rant. The saga will continue on another day before I start breaking stuff. Cheers! Mike Edited August 8, 2014 by Mykeys Toy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 On my 82 brat the fuel gauge goes up and down while driving even with a full tank (will go from 1/4 to 3/4 back to 1/4 repeatedly) but it chooses a spot to stay once the tank gets lower. Checked the voltage getting to the sender and it checked out ok so replaced the the sender with a known good one only to have the same thing happen. Then i took the cluster apart to tested the gauge its self which is also good. I'm just going to leave it since the low fuel gauge works on it and is accurate since i made it to the gas station filling it at $42 so it had less than a gallon left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 So I have finished all I can do. There is definately something weird going on and I am afraid I am out of options for now so aftermarket here I come. I hope to revisit this issue at somepoint when I have more info or FSM to go off of. In the mean time.. Some opinion on this -->http://www.egauges.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=301-107 Is there something special about a tube type sender or will our stock ones work?.. Same resistance values and 90-0 like we need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) Pull the sender out of the tank and make sure the sliding contact is making a good connection across the Rheostat section, You can bend the sliding contact to make better electrical contact, You can test the change in resistance out of the tank and you want to see not only the zero to 90 Ohms reading but a smooth transition as the contact sweeps across the rheostat. You can also buy a Rheostat from an electronics supply and use it to test the gauge as well with the aid of a Multimeter mark out the different ohms as you adjust the rheostat, Instant cheap Factory type tool I have a VDO gauge test tool and all it is is a Rheostat with markings for Ohms readings across the scale in a Plastic enclosure. Edited August 10, 2014 by coxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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