thornleyjacob Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Could I get some pictures of where the roll bars mount in a Gen 2 Brat? I am looking for pictures of the actual mounts and mount points, not just a picture of the Brat's bed with arrows pointing to here and there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silas Cruse Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 https://www.google.com/search?q=Brat+-+Roll+Bar&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=M0_mU4OSMcrGiwLQwYC4Ag&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=783 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) Yes, I know how to google and search forums. Trust me, I have spent about a week looking for what I want. I guess for those that may not understand what I would like; I would like a closeup pictures of someone's installed Gen 2 roll bar mounting points. In the bed and at the wheel well. I am interested in seeing how/if the bar blocks the side drain holes and how/if it covers up the outside seat-belt bolt. I also wanted to inspect how the mounting on the wheel well works in better detail than what I have found on google and in the forums. I am looking at having someone who manufactures roll-bars and bumpers make me one and they may be interested in making more... Edited August 9, 2014 by thornleyjacob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 Also does anyone know what is the OE diameter of the roll bars are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Most Alloy bars in Australia are 2.5 " to 3" but for steel I would use no smaller than 2 " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 I happened to take these pictures yesterday as the "Before" shots for a new bedliner and some rust repair. Probably not perfect, but not bad. Helpful at all? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Thank you for the shots! If I may ask, can you take closeups of where the bar mounts down close to the seat belt bolt holes near the cabin wall? Also are there metal plates underneath reinforcing where the bolts are in the wheel wells? Also what liner is on that and what one are you getting put in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 I'll try to get some shots tonight for you. I don't think there is really any extra reinforcing, but the bolts on top of the wheel well run right into the rear shock tower. I think the bulk of the strength of the setup comes from the main hoop behind the cab rather than the legs to the wheel wells. The bedliner was a DIY kit. I forget what brand, but I still have the leftover material around so I'll check what it was. I really think the problem with that liner was poor prep work. It is REALLY stuck on the sides, but peels right off of the floor. I'm going to strip it all out and put in the Iron Armor brand from Harbor Freight. It got remarkably good reviews everywhere that I looked and I can get more than enough to do the whole bed for $34 with a coupon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 How long was that DIY bed liner in before it started coming up like that? Also what are your plans for addressing the major rust issues on the wheel wells? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Also, I would highly recommend using at 2-3 coats of POR-15 first; just make sure to rough it down after it cures with 60-80 grit before applying the bed liner. The POR-15 is a rust treatment that should stop more rust from forming in locations you cannot get to with a wire wheel or sander. I applied it just because I wanted it in all the seams between the panels; where the bed liner would not get to. While POR-15 is expensive; you can get the smaller can of it for about $30.00, the marine clean for about $15.00, and the metal ready for about $15.00. That one small can will do 2-3 coats on the bed. You may end up liking the POR-15 so much that you will opt not to spend the time doing the bed liner. POR-15 is also brush on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Bed liner started coming up from day one. I put it on 3 years ago and it really started peeling this summer. I hardly even use the bed, too. I'm going to cut and weld on the wheel wells where they rusted. I'll POR-15 the shock towers before I put new metal on. I'm going to use aircraft stripper to take the bed to bare metal then POR the rusty spots. I'm also going to close in the sides of the shock tower where it leaves a gap and causes the rust on the wells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoss5723 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 (edited) Here is the underside of the wheel well where the roll bar attaches.http://imgur.com/els5EXIHere is the mounting point for the main hoop right behind the cab.http://imgur.com/pva0BeiSorry for links instead of images. I'm on my phone. EDIT: Here are the actual pictures. The bar mounts to the 4 smaller holes. One is on a hump for whatever reason, but the bar I have is double thickness near the other 3 holes to account for the height difference. Edited August 12, 2014 by jmoss5723 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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