Replacing steering rack on 98 OBW

[Rooster2]

My 98 OBW has had blown rack boots for some time. It has finally progressed to the point that the rack leaks P/S fluid. I did research back in the archives on this forum to get some good advise. Advise was to buy a used rack from a yard, and that it is not difficult to swap in a replacement rack. I got this advise.........

 

anyway - they're super easy to swap out.

1.  remove exhaust manifold

2.  disconnect 2 tie rod ends (you don't even have to remove the wheels - just loosen 19mm lock nut and unthread tie rod)

3.  4 bolts for steering rack brackets

4.  1 bolt to disconnect steering rack ujoint

5.  2 nuts for fluid lines on passengers side

 

mark carefully u-joint placement to retain steering wheel alignment and tie rods for toe alignment

 

That all sounds straight forward, however, I can see a lot of work in removing the exhaust manifold to be not so super easy. My 98 must have rusted bolts holding the manifold together. Is it a simple matter of zip cutting the bolts off, and replace with new bolts, or do they thread in, and have to be screwed out? If so, my luck is to break a bolt, then have to drill it out, and maybe have to tap in new threads. Any advise please??

 

Also, went to carparts.com to look for a used rack from a yard. Prices seemed to be in the $75 to $100 range. Anything I should be aware of before ordering a rack on line??  All posts are for Legacy, so I guess Legacy, and Legacy OBW are the same. Thanks for any advise...............Rooster2

 

 

[propane]

 

 I did a 96 Legacy rack recently, & separated
the tie rod at the steering knuckle because that’s what was on the replacement
rack, and kept some kind of toe in alignment from previous car. Also remember a
skid plate with 4 12mm nuts , bolts that is dropped out of the way for the rack
to come out. Yeah, the manifold studs are threaded into the block, They use a
fairly low torque 22 ft lbs I think, so it shouldn’t be too hard to grab on
with visegrips if things go south, frequently the stud and nut come out
together.

 On finish, leave the fill cap fairly loose,
hang’n by a thread cause the air in system has to go somewhere and needs to
escape from reservoir as it is being replaced by steering fluid. Then cap it after
it has filled, and the pump stops making cavitation sounds going lock to lock- to dipstick level.

 

[upnorthguy]

 

 

 

 On finish, leave the fill cap fairly loose,

hang’n by a thread cause the air in system has to go somewhere and needs to

escape from reservoir as it is being replaced by steering fluid. Then cap it after

it has filled, and the pump stops making cavitation sounds going lock to lock- to dipstick level.

 

 

 

+1 to this.  I had a nice cavitation shudder after replacing the PS reservoir o-ring.  A couple of circles lock to lock with the cap off took care of it.

Edited August 25, 2014 by upnorthguy

[Rooster2]

Thanks, I appreciate the advise...............Rooster2..........................Larry