roadsubiedog Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 Tranny Shop UPDATE: mechanic said that the snap ring broke on the Viscous coupler ( is that the same as center diff? ) and that its toast along with the bearing and the rear case was damaged. he did not say anything about input shaft. if that bearing was going bad , would that explain the noise I heard for the last 4 years that gradually sounded louder? the noise went away when I pushed in clutch . he said that was because the input shaft stops when you push in clutch. the good news is that he has a good rear case and some parts from a 99 forester. the bad news is that the VC has to be replaced also and he said that is almost 600 bucks from Subaru. someone here said I could just buy a good used VC or center diff if that is the same thing but I also need the rear case and probably the whole works that go with it. is different years rear tranny cases that can go with the 99 or does it specifically have to be a 99? also I was wondering how hard it would be to find a used VC and rear case. or would you just bite the bullet and let him put a new VC in with the used rear case and works from the forrester? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 The bearings in the rear case can make noise that goes away when the clutch is in, since that takes some load off of the bearings, but those will generally make a constant sound that varies with wheel speed. Faster you go the higher the pitch or louder the growl is. The input shaft bearing makes noise based on engine RPM. It will not change pitch with wheel speed. If the growl you had changed pitch each time you changed gears, that's a bad input shaft bearing and you may be better off to find a used trans to put in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadsubiedog Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 noise completely went away also if I put it in neutral while gliding down hills or if I threw it in neutral at any speed. I first heard a slight noise about 5 years ago. it has slightly gotten louder but no growl or high pitch over the last 80000 miles. the sound is always the same. always went away with clutch pedal pushed in or gliding. thank you. btw. he didn't seem to think there was anything wrong in the front half of tranny even though he did not pull that case apart. he said he was gonna look up yhe drain plug. that concerns me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 can i jump into this discussion to ask a few questions? i just bought a 99 outback legacy with less than 135k on it. well a few months ago but finally got around to transferring title etc. can i say it was the best deal i've gotten on a sube yet, i didnt believe the guy that much because he didnt have a title and i went through that transfer etc and here when i later looked in the glove there was the carfax etc that he had gotten from the dealer when he bought it at like 115k! Anywho, he had bounced it off a curb, and because he couldnt figure out the alignment or tire destroying issues, he just wanted to get rid of it so he sold it to me for 1200. and it is pristine inside! it has that nice multi-colored interior seats that i guess came on the better subes. but i digress. i finally figured out the alignment problem, my mechanic said it was the fact taht he had too big of and mismatched tires, and after he replaced all hubs and bearings and brakes all around, actually my suggestion after he said the bad curb-wheel needed them, anyway it was still out and i finally took it to a place where they said it was the spindle. now it's straight and sweet! my question is, this is a manual trans vehicle. it is my fourth legacy, but my first MT. My mechanic said it needs the whole timing belt kit etc service, which i concur, but as he said i should get the clutch looked at also as it whines like an old truck sometimes esp when cold or when turning, i mean other than having the clutch and throwout bearing replaced are there any supportive systems or hydraulics etc i should have replaced or serviced? I seem to remember reading about such things a long time ago. Thanks so much. Sorry for the story. Enjoying being back in a sube. '97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadsubiedog Posted September 26, 2014 Author Share Posted September 26, 2014 please start your own thread. this one is very important to me. without the help of USMB members I would have not been able to attempt the removal and repair of my transmission/clutch, saving me at least 1000 dollars or more and giving me priceless advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadsubiedog Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 (edited) finally got the tranny back from shop after 4 weeks. installed flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. used the alignment tool and it appears very well centered. tightened bolts very carefully to about 12 foot pounds. kept sliding alignment tool out in the process. came out easily when I was done. have question about new throwout. bearing. the clips seemed loose so I tightened then so they were more snug on the bearing. checking out AdventureSubarus pics on the clutch install, it appears to be right. however, the bearing does not fit snugly on the shaft. there is a little side to side play. just a little. the old one and new one is identical it is an Exedy. OEM. I put the old one back on and it had the exact same play. just wondering if this sounds right. when the bearing is pushed in as far as it can go about a half inch of sleeve is showing.is this right? the clutch fork is hitting the front top of hole where dust cover is. but with it pushed in all the way I can still see about a half inch of sleeve on the inside of the clutch fork and tranny. a video I watched says it is supposed to travel all the way in. Edited October 8, 2014 by roadsubiedog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 The release fork is properly clipped onto the pivot stud? This is about how it should look: http://beergarage.com/SubyClutch.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadsubiedog Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 (edited) if that fork and bearing is pushed back as far as it can go, then mine looks exactly like that. I noticed though that behind the fork I could still see about a half inch of the sleeve showing where there was more room for the fork/bearing to travel. on mine, the top of the fork was hitting the front of the hole where the boot goes. I just wanted to be damn sure before I reinstall the tranny. thanks for the reply. I think i'll load it up and take to a shop downtown to have a mechanic see it in person. Edited October 8, 2014 by roadsubiedog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadsubiedog Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 (edited) just back from two shops. both said I installed correctly but it needs a sleeve since the bearing.appears. oversized. about a piece of paper can fit between the bearing and shaft. the old throwout was exactly the same. Edited October 8, 2014 by roadsubiedog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadsubiedog Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 wanted to thank everyone who helped me here with my transmission removal, repair, and reinstall . over last weekend reinstalled. didn't take as long as the removal actually. the hardest part was adjustments of tranny jack to get the last inch in. used the motor studs as a reference and then it slipped right on. finished everything up on sunday and then took it for a spin and went thru all the gears a dozen times. smooth as glass. just have to bleed the slave cylinder and a few other non tranny and clutch adjustments since it has been sitting since January and she should be good to go. USMB members probably saved me 600-800 in labor for the whole deal and I probably got thousands of dollars of free mechanical education. this has given me the confidence to tackle almost any other repair job on my subies. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Good deal! Glad it's done! As for the TOB question. Nothing to worry about there. These tend to have a bit of a loose fit. Now onto the next project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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