Stuck bolts? Try this

[DaveT]

Heat gun clamped to a C stand.  Also used an electric space heater just below the engine to help.  Get the engine up to near operating temperature, and the bolts unscrew without breaking.   So far, this has worked every time.   If the engine is still in the car, and runs, just take a drive and then remove them.  I also used this to get the EGR pipe on an EA82 unscrewed. 

 

 

[Ibreakstuff]

+1

I keep a small butane lighter for a similar purpose, the "blue wrench". Don't blow yourself up.   

Turning canned air upside down to freeze the bolt prior to heating the area around can even go one step farther.

[DaveT]

I've used the flame wrench on things also.  But for the deep bolts, like intake manifold, or head bolts, you have a LOT of metal to heat up, and this has no open flame, and less risk of over cooking.

[Ibreakstuff]

I've used the flame wrench on things also.  But for the deep bolts, like intake manifold, or head bolts, you have a LOT of metal to heat up, and this has no open flame, and less risk of over cooking.

 

I agree, running the motor is a clever idea too. Bolts and aluminum definitely expand and contract at different rates, finding the sweet spot is the hard part.. Heat guns are more predictable and heat more evenly.

 

 

I've seen some old school builders use heat guns when setting head bolt/stud torque to prevent having to re-torque in the car. Makes me wonder if the EA motors could benefit. I need an oven that can fit a longblock!

[DaveT]

 

 

I've seen some old school builders use heat guns when setting head bolt/stud torque to prevent having to re-torque in the car. Makes me wonder if the EA motors could benefit. I need an oven that can fit a longblock!

 

 

Interesting.  I've used the Fell Pro gaskets.  Perma torque  head gaskets.  I've seen other comments on here over the years reporting good results.  I have an engine I re sealed with them, and they are still good, without retorqueing.  Ran it in 2 cars over quite a few years.  Unfortunately, one of the heads cracked recently.    Coolant out the exhaust port.  I ran it with a zero pressure radiator cap for a while, but had to give up on it when most of the coolant recovery tank would drain while sitting at work.

[chrisfss]

And when this all fails? 

 

We are trying to remove the dual mass clutch form a 2002 Liberty.  This clutch is not held on by hex head bolts but by star drive head bolts.  We have tried CRC, heat (lots of), a long bar, a rattle gun but nothing will shift them.  Has anyone any ideas of what to try next?  I believe they are standard right hand tread (no reason why not) but just maybe they are left hand thread.  Does anyone know?

 

We are getting seriously frustrated as we are all ready to put in a new single mass clutch but just can't get the dual mass disaster out.

 

Any help appreciated.

[Ibreakstuff]

I've seen some old school builders use heat guns when setting head bolt/stud torque to prevent having to re-torque in the car. Makes me wonder if the EA motors could benefit. I need an oven that can fit a longblock!

 

 

Interesting.  I've used the Fell Pro gaskets.  Perma torque  head gaskets.  I've seen other comments on here over the years reporting good results.  I have an engine I re sealed with them, and they are still good, without retorqueing.  Ran it in 2 cars over quite a few years.  Unfortunately, one of the heads cracked recently.    Coolant out the exhaust port.  I ran it with a zero pressure radiator cap for a while, but had to give up on it when most of the coolant recovery tank would drain while sitting at work.

 

The problem I've had with Fel-Pro HG's (9392PT) is that I've received inferior gaskets still labeled as perma torques. But if you get the ones with viton coating around the water jackets (similar to the OEM gaskets) it shouldn't be a problem.

 

Slightly OT but I am very interested in trying a zero pressure waterless coolant (Evan's specifically) on one of my ea82t's. It raises the boiling point considerably. The downside is that PG/EG is less efficient than water at cooling so I wouldn't do it without upgrading the cooling system. But it should reduce hotspots in the heads and reduce detonation. It has other pros/cons that have to be considered too.

[Ibreakstuff]

And when this all fails? 

 

We are trying to remove the dual mass clutch form a 2002 Liberty.  This clutch is not held on by hex head bolts but by star drive head bolts.  We have tried CRC, heat (lots of), a long bar, a rattle gun but nothing will shift them.  Has anyone any ideas of what to try next?  I believe they are standard right hand tread (no reason why not) but just maybe they are left hand thread.  Does anyone know?

 

We are getting seriously frustrated as we are all ready to put in a new single mass clutch but just can't get the dual mass disaster out.

 

Any help appreciated.

 

48 hour PB Blaster soak + lots of heat to the area around the bolt + smack with a hammer + upside down canned air on the bolt itself + air ratchet or high powered rattle gun?

 

I keep a hammer impact (the kind you smack with a hammer) around too, for stupid phillips head screws (rear rotors). It might work if you can fit the torx bit.

 

I hate Torx bolts!!!! ej255/d25 cam bolts suck huge donkey testies too, which are hex.

[ragingbull]

Great idea! Would this work on body/frame bolts as well!? Im planning on lifting my 86 Brat next weekend!

[DaveT]

I have not tried it on body / frame.  If you can get the hot air on the nut area, I suppose it could help.  penetrating oil  and careful wrench work is what I've used on steel on steel bolts.    Sometimes, rocking the bolt back and forth and gradually the unscrew direction goes farther and farther.  Usually, with the body & frame bolts there is a length past the nut that has rust and or dirt on it.  Better to knock / work it off rather than just trying to drag it through the nut.