2010 forester Timing belt change questions

[StructEngineer]

I have a few questions regarding an upcoming t-belt change on a 2010 forester (non turbo).

 

1.  To replace the water pump, does the rear timing cover and the tensioner bracket have to be removed?  Manual seems to indicate this but I'm seeing one or two threads skipping these items.   Just asking because having to remove the cam sprocket requires an additional tool.

 

2.  To torque the crank pulley, the manual indicates a turn of the nut method of approximately 60 degrees past 37 ft-lb.  Do people actually do this?  I guess I can go buy a torque angle gage, but itd be nice to just use the torque wrench I already have.....  I'm seeing torque numbers being thrown out from 90 lb-ft to 135 lb-ft.  

Edited September 2, 2014 by StructEngineer

[idosubaru]

1.  no.  but they take all of 30 seconds to figure out, so if you're doing a timing belt job, the worry factor is about the same as what shampoo to use the day you do your timing belt job.

 

2. no...and yes.  some people follow Subaru protocol exactly.  if you're like most engineers trying to work on things, you may lean that way.  otherwise, a torque wrench isn't even needed for the crank pulley. granted i've done a ton - but with a 2 - 3 foot pipe over the socket wrench - get it good and tight and it's not going anywhere.  it's a cast iron crank, i've never seen or heard of one stripping and it's not a crucial fastener in regards to torque values.  so i just get it really tight and it's golden.  135 pounds, do not use 90.

[StructEngineer]

1.  30 seconds?  Dont I need a cam holder tool to remove the rear cover? 

 

2.  I think I'll do the turn of nut method instead of guessing at it..... if this bolt lets loose the crank is done for....

[idosubaru]

1.  30 seconds?  Dont I need a cam holder tool to remove the rear cover? 

 

2.  I think I'll do the turn of nut method instead of guessing at it..... if this bolt lets loose the crank is done for....

 

1.  Ah! right - the rear timing cover does not need to come off to replace the belt.  

 

the only thing you need to remove to replace the belt is the timing covers and crank pulley - that's it.

 

I usually remove the cam sprocket to replace the seal anyway and be done with it.  You can remove the cam bolt with an impact wrench or use a rubber strap wrench or chain wrench with sufficient protection to protect the gears.  I use impact guns and rubber strap wrenches my self.

 

2.  I've done a bunch so I can see where that would cause anxiety.  You can always do the degrees of turn method with the torque wrench so you can get a feel for it - you may find yourself both hitting the 135ftlb and degree mark at the same time.  double good warm fuzzy feelings!  lean towards a little extra tight than under.  i've never had one come off and i show those things who's the boss.  i aim way high..but again i've done enough to know what "way high" feels like.

 

actually the crank isn't done for if it let's loose, i've fixed enough mistakes by other people to know.  i've yet to encounter one that was a big deal.  but it would certainly be a huge scare for most people. 

[idosubaru]

To be sure - the tensioner bracket and rear cover never have to come off for a timing belt change.  100% certain.

[StructEngineer]

Right, but I was asking about the water pump.  The service manual is showing that the rear cover and bracket need to come off, but I'm not really sure why and most writeups for older models dont show this.

[idosubaru]

the rear cover definitely doesn't have to come off.  i think it's convenient to remove it as it technically has a "gasket" on it and is a tight fit/seal between it and the tensioner bracket and water pump - and on some models (not yours though i don't think) there's an overlap of the cover and bracket too...but even that's not enough to warrant removal but that's why its' shown, yet not required, i'd never remove it.

 

the tensioner bracket doesn't have to come off on older models - but it might be easier for a first timer since it's a tight fit with i think a sealing gasket between the pump and tensioner bracket, making it a tight fit particularly during reinstallation while you're trying to simultaneously trying to keep all the bolts lined up.  the 2006+ pump is slightly different, so maybe the bracket needs removed...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/4th-gen-sohc-2-5-timing-belt-replacement-pic-intense-188814.html

[keith3267]

The torque angle method is more accurate than pure torque.  You don't need a torque angle wrench though.  You torque to 37 ft lbs and then mark the peak of the most convenient point on the nut, or the point that is closest to 12 o'clock.  Mark the spot behind the peak, then turn the nut until the next peak aligns with this mark.  The points on a 6 point nut just happen to be 60 degrees apart.

 

I haven't worked on the Subaru engine yet, but here is a home made tool I used to holt the pulley on a Toyota.

 

 

Its made from a scrap 1x4 and a couple of bolts.

Edited September 2, 2014 by keith3267

[14D]

Not sure about the newer engines but I was able to break the pulley bolts loose pretty easily with the timing belt still on (put transmission in high gear, have someone hold the brakes if necessary).  Torque to spec after the belt is back on and everything is lined up. 

 

That home made tool looks pretty slick though.

Edited September 3, 2014 by 14D