Brake Fluid Brand?

[Pasta]

Hi Everyone,

 

I tried researching this on the forum and could not find anything.  If it has been posted somewhere else, I apologize and ask someone post the link to that thread.

 

Going to bleed the brake fluid on a 2009 Forester.  Owner's manual states: DOT 3 brake fluid. 

 

I see Valvoline makes a synthetic DOT 3,4...is that compatible?  Any brand recommendations?  I see that some companies make different colored brake fluid, making it easier to know when all the old stuff is purged out.  What are your thoughts?

 

Thank you,

 

Pasta

 

 

 

 

[Fairtax4me]

Valvoline DOT3/4 synthetic works great. I used to use it all the time.

 

If your fluid is old and brown looking you'll know when all the old fluid is out because it will turn clear.

[naru]

The synthetic label is pure marketing Bullshit.

 

ALL brake fluid is synthetic,except for that weird Citroen stuff.

I would be leary of companies that label thier products in that semi-fraudulent manner.

 

Use any DOT 3.You will not have any trouble telling when fresh fluid appears at the bleeder.

Edited September 13, 2014 by naru

[Rooster2]

The synthetic label is pure marketing Bullshit.

 

ALL brake fluid is synthetic,except for that weird Citroen stuff.

I would be leary of companies that label thier products in that semi-fraudulent manner.

 

Use any DOT 3.You will not have any trouble telling when fresh fluid appears at the bleeder.

I agree, brake fluid is really generic stuff. IMO, it doesn't matter what brand you buy.  DOT 3 rating is the one to buy for normal driving. DOT 4 has higher heat performance, but not needed unless you drive in mountains, or do street or track racing to really heat up the brakes.

 

Important to replace the cap tightly on the brake fluid bottle, when storing for future use. Brake fluid readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, and moisture is not something that you want to introduce into your brake system.

[Pasta]

Thanks for your thoughts, everyone.  This "new to me" Forester has almost 68K and needs to last my family a very, very long time. 

 

I want to take the absolute best care of it possible.  We live in Idaho and mountain driving is fairly common.  A friend of mine just told me Prestone DOT 4 synthetic has the highest boiling point he can find. 

 

It probably is overkill, and "big-box brand" DOT 3 will probably suffice just fine (that is what the owner's manual calls for), and I may spend a couple extra bucks for nothing, but the peace of mind will be worth it in the long run.  If anyone else out there has a favorite, please respond with the name you like best and why you like it.

 

Thanks!!!

[Stevo F]

I used whatever brand DOT 3/ 4 clear brake fluid in everything we have (I've used Valvoline and Prestone- around 5- $6 per quart). 1 quart should be enough to bleed out most of the old fluid in most cars.

 

I usually start at the rear (farthest from the master cylinder and work my way closest).

 

Just make sure the mater cylinder doesn't suck in any air. i did that a few months ago on the '98 Legacy. Bled the air out and brakes feel fine now, but ABS brakes are locking on dry pavement so maybe some air still in the ABS pump?

[keith3267]

I know this is going to sound a little anal on my part but you used the term "bleed".  Bleeding brakes is to get air out of the brake lines and components.  If you are just going to replace the fluid and do not have air in the lines, then the correct term is flush.

 

The reason I point this out is that if flushing is your goal, then there is an easy way to do this that you can do by yourself.  Get some clear 1/8" vinyl tubing at the aquarium section at WalMart.  With the vehicle jacked up and on jack stands and wheels removed (easiest way IMO, attach a piece of the tubing to the bleeder valve.  Note: if you do not have the correct size flair wrench, then use a box wrench or socket on a breaker bar to crack the bleed valve loose first.

 

The tubing should go upward at first a few inches, then into a jar of some kind, but it is important that it go upwards for an inch or two first to prevent any air from siphoning into the calipers.  I also like to pack a little grease around the threads of the bleeder at the base, but that is not really necessary for this type of flushing.

Now use a suction bulb of some kind to draw out all the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.  I use a suction bulb for batteries from a car parts store but you can use a turkey baster if your wife doesn't catch you.  Refill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid, your choice although I recommend that you not use any brake fluid meant for racing.  Racing brake fluid absorbs water much faster than regular Dot 3/4.  Racers usually change their brake fluid after every race and those who use their cars as street/track often swap between the fluids at the beginning and end of each race.

 

Now all you have to do is to open each bleeder, one at a time or all for together and let gravity do its thing.  Only open the bleeders a little, especially if you do all four at once, because you need to keep the master cylinder full.  If it goes empty, then you will have to bleed the brakes.  I usually do the two at the back first, then the two at the front.  Since this has a X brake pattern, it does not matter which side goes first, just rears first, then fronts.

[Stevo F]

I use the term "flush" the brake lines interchangeably. I use a one man a vacuum brake bleeder (about $30- nothing special) so I don't have to have to bother anyone to pump the pedal.

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