coronan Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Hello, I'm new to the forum. I've been lurking about a week. I have been trying to absorb as much as i can, here. On offroadingsubaru.net and HTKYSA. I feel like info for the EA81T (TURBO) is lacking. The car rips and is pretty clean. Only 116,000 mi. My biggest battle going to be old rubber. There has been some handi work in it. Its running 15psi of boost!!!! Should i worry? Turn it down? I cant hear any knock on 91 octane. It has the EA81T with MPFI and a 4 speed manual. (not stock, right?) The back story goes that 2 owners ago was a serious subaru racer (caged wrx) in oregon. Then it was sold. Sat in a barn for a while. Owner died. Son brought it to tahoe and sold it to me. No rust! My first repair is an inner CV boot. Is Silicone best for the tubo side or neoprene? Part number? Eventually i want to replace CV Boots all around. I want the best mpg. Can any one confirm this Mod will fit 27" tires no lift, just a fender trim? http://offroadingsubarus.com/radius-rod-extensions-increase-caster-angle/ I calculated a 300 rpm drop. A 5 speed is in the future. (another 300 rpm drop) But I'm not sure about a few things. Do i have 23 spline axels or 25??? Big fly wheel or small? Measurements? Clutch Disk 7-7/8 or 8-7/8? 6 spring clutch from a 89-91 legacy??? Is the Vented rotor upgrade affected by spline count? I think i need a donor 85 -89 EA82 turbo car in which case should i just take the motor too? As I will be in there for the cv boots, this rotor upgrade will be high on my list to get used calipers and new rotors. Why does the EA82 make more power than the EA81??? Same displacement. Better cam? Other wacky thing going on with the car: voltage gauge reads low. (alternator output was 14v with everything on). Recommendations? gas gauge stuck in the middle but e light works. Recommendations? Brakes are soft. I flushed and bled them and they are better. Tried adjusting rear breaks but the the bolt was extremely stiff. I couldnt get the passenger side to move. Recommendations? What other common nuances should I look for? Thanks for everyone who has put this forum together!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) Knock will kill it. Back off a bit on the boost. EDIT: Misread your post.., thought you were saying it was knocking. I re-read it and saq it wasn't. Sorry. Edited September 15, 2014 by BirdMobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 I believe i have read that recommended boost level is 12psi. Does that apply to the EA81T or EA82??? Isn't EA81 lower compression??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) I have the engine manual as well as the Brumby manual complete in PDF Format, Pm if needed.It does include the Turbo Engine Forget the EA 82 the EA 81 is much better, with the big clutch use an XT6 Pressure Plate, the early cars used a smaller clutch so a flywheel will be needed. Five Speed use EA 82 the bits needed to bolt in are sold by a member here, Jerry. Not sure on Axle spline count for the EA81 Turbo somebody will know we never had them in Australia. Vented Rotors bolt to the Hub so are not affected by spline count. Fuel Gauge check the sender sometimes bending the moving pickup so it contacts the rheostat sections better fixes that, the pickup sweeps across a segment with different lengths and thus resistances allowing the reading of fuel levels. Great find a Turbo Brat with no rust, I would assume rubbers are available somewhere in the USA we have companies that do replacement rubbers in Australia a much smaller market so surely somebody does them in the US. Edited September 15, 2014 by coxy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 (edited) it is about time someone asked for photos ! may as well include the VIN , just xx's for last six of 17 digits for privacy the VIN will help someone id the car being stock or not what rubbers are you asking about ? 4 speed 4WD ? If still runs 4 stud rims, go chase a set of disc rear brakes from turbo EA82 models, RX etc, save wasting time and money on rear drums. Bolt on with maybe make a new hose between caliper and body and is an awesome brake improvement. Good to see you are into preventative maintnance - not everyone is ! A good fuel additive for cleaning everything from tank to injectors, then replace fuel filter - not sure where EA81T have their fuel pump and filter. Similarly a good engine oil flush cleaner to assist keeping the hydraulic lifters clean An after market temperature unit to instal on the engine block, not in the water, with back up alarm is also a good add on. I use a Watchdog TM2 that indicated by a 5 deg C rise in normal temp - that I needed to look - found water down half a litre - prevented mishap there. Don't need to be too clever to modify an ebay temp controller for aquariums The EA82T has dual port intake, over the EA81 single port intake. On the boost you have, is double factory - work that out for yourself. Think you will find there is a knock sensor with a separate knock control unit like the 85,86 EA82T. EA82T knock sensor screws into block at top of passenger side LHD, two wires. Would think IF EA81T has knock control, sensor may be same place ? Look under the dist cap, screw hold down not spring clips ? Inside should be a module - how many pins on it? How many wires leading into dist ? If it handles the 15psi, you could rig up a two stage boost so runs normal 6 or 7 psi most of the time, flip a switch to divert boost through a solenoid from a gasoline lock off unit - propane/dual fuel parts, to switch bigger 15psi boost for special occasions Edited September 15, 2014 by jono Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148904-nice-82-brat-near-reno-turbo-116k-miles/?hl=%2Bturbo+%2Bbrat When it was on craigslist you could tell it was put together one way or another. It's definitely not a stock turbo brat but still looks good. You should turn down the boost or your going to have problems in the near distant future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 It's not stock. 84 was the first year EA81T in a Brat. As stated by Jono, 6-8 psi for everyday driving. It will handle 12, 16 is pushing it. By a boost controller with a turbo timer. It'll add years to the turbo and engine life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Rubber? under the hood i see a lot of pre-molded rubber hose. (the kinds with the bends in it). (vacuum, coolant, ect) I'd rather not get it all from the dealer. anyone got universal part numbers from gates / dorman??? Most of the hoses are hard to squeeze, which means they are brittle. 4 speed 4wd dual range. If I go to disk brakes in the rear can i not mod to 6 lug rims??? I'd like to get bigger tires. The previous owner took the right steps before he brought it down. Had it check out by a mechanic. changed oil. Oil is still yellow 1500 mi later. But he put in 5-30 synthetic which is not keeping the pressure that I would like to see after a long run on the hwy. A dual port intake wont fit on the EA81 head will it? The trouble with knock is its sneaky. By the time you hear it it could be too late. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0348 Be sure to read all 3 or 4 parts. I tend to have lots of wrench time in my vehicles and have learned to drive them delicately. Getting on the hwy; i let it boost to about 10psi, then back off the throttle. Cruising on the hwy runs about 5-6 psi. I need to get under the heat shield and see if it is stock. first 200 miles yielded 26mpg. Most of my turbo experience is on VW TDI's. You can boost the motor till the cows come home but it might cost you a turbo by letting it over shoot. I drive carefully during tuning. On my tdi; i'm running some where between 180-200 hp. The brat pulls about 75% as hard. Plenty fun. @ Tubosubarubrat: Thats the one. The Owner wasn't mechanically inclined. I'd like to track down the "Racer" who owned it to learn more about the build. So what is recommended boost level???? Any documented Top mounted inter cooler installs (air to air) with the ea81 or 82??? Its either free HP or insurance against knock. Pics tomorrow.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Actually, 83 was the first year for the turbo brat. The 4 speed manual has 23 spline axles. Seeing that the original craigslist ad has been removed I also request pics . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 My factory subaru manual says the supercharging pressure should be 48.0 kPa + or - 4.0 which translates to 6.96 psi + or - 0.58. You should be fine running anywhere from 7-10 psi without problems. It should move good with a manual in it over the stock 3 speed auto like my wagons have had. If i kept one i would swap it to a 5 speed to bring the engine alive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 is that quad headlights in 1983 ??!! In the brochure just above ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Yes, quads were standard in 83 on gl models. My brother had a 2wd 82 gl sedan back in the 90s that had quads as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted September 22, 2014 Author Share Posted September 22, 2014 So, the weather here has been sh*t for taking pictures for the last few weeks. My area has been getting all the smoke from the California fires. Its like smoking a pack a day. But here she is.... Can someone point out the transmission dipstick tube for me? I'm either a complete retard or its not there. I read that all MT and autos got a dipstick and it is used as the fill hole. Should be near the Bell housing, right? I want to change the fluid. Maybe someone can circle it. Transmission identification Dizzy a 4 wire. I don't think the Turbo motors got a choice between Hitachi or Nippon-Denso. Think it has knock suppression???? Can someone tell me what Relay has been bypassed? Most cars have 3 relays here. I only have 2 sockets here. But I do have AC. On to the oil pump: Does this cap mean that my oil cooler has been bypassed???? I did find and oil cooler in front of the radiator, But I couldn't easily follow the lines. So i added one of these I had laying around to the oil filter. It is good for a few extra pounds of oil pressure. I also got my butt kicked by the water pump last week. Subie knows how to pack it in there. If you have AC you know what I mean. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silas Cruse Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 that finned thing is an oil cooler! ha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 You cant find the dip stick since its hidden under the turbo shroud. It mounts with 2 bolts one on each side of the engine bay which need taken out and the sensor unplugged. The ignition module its self it specific to the ea81t and ea82t but the mechanical parts of the distributor are the same as a non turbo. You see the two hard lines coming off the oil pump? Those go to the oil cooler on the front (you can see part of one of the lines in the picture). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Thanks TSB! Did subie use magnetic drain plugs on the trany & rear diff? Do do i need to get some? @ Jono: Got a write up for that temp monitor install??? I'm curious how and where you mounted the probe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 So I took the Brat out on some dirt yesterday... I tried to do a hand brake turn......HEAVILY DISAPPOINTED. Where is the rear hand brake conversion mod?????!!!!!! Is it possible with the rear caliper upgrade or did all 80 cars get front e-brakes? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 (edited) Well, the watchdog TM2 comes with instructions to mount the probe which is mounted to a ringed electrical connector conveniently and heatshrink wrapped - mount it under a thermostat housing bolt. Have since made my own with ebay unit at 1/10 the price found an electrical lug supplier....started with a ring lug suitable to bolt an M8 through the hole. Then, found next size down, its wire connect end, fitted its butt inside the wire end of the larger terminal, so soldered it in place, chopped its smaller lug head ring off, drilled out new reduced size wire end to 4.0mm to take the 4.0 mm probe nice tight fit and wire up an intermittent screaming alarm from jaycar. If you have finance the watchdog is easiest option. The ebay units are nice price and a small challenge, are panel mount for best look and Subie grey to begin with .... http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=12v+aquarium+temperature+controller&_sacat=0 a current link in A$ used 12V aquarium temperature controller as search words ..... just ensure you get the one with buttons on the front panel ! If you search harder, there have been two channel units that could use to switch relays for a pair of fans at different set temps, or fans on for lower setting, alarm for overheat higher set temp. When first played with them, watched them change temp reading with probe in the breeze 0.1 deg C changes ! The vac cans are turbo specific too as they are boost retard as well as vac advance in the EA82T of 85,86. Yours likely the same and is common for the diaphragm to be shot and leak boost into the distributor. Took me five months to learn this - with the help of pressured proppane vapours sneaking inside the spark chamber on light boost - BOOM !! Edited September 23, 2014 by jono Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 I was at my local PnP last night as a scouting mission. They have 2 Subaru GL's. An 87 and an 89. My first priority is to get the parts needed for vented front disks. As long as I am in there I'd like to get spare half shafts. If I make it that far; I should take the tranny. But these are going to be after work adventures. Its not likely to happen. I'm tied up all weekends for the next 3 weeks. Both are 5 speed manual. My notes say that the 89 should have full time 4x4 which is not what i want. But its VIN plate says it was made in 7/1988. If it is Full Time 4x4 with hi/lo: has a vacuum diaphragm on drivers side of the box with a cable over the top of the trans connected to a lever down near the back, then you've got a full-time, with dual range. Correct??? The Half shafts looked to be in better condition on the 89. Will it still have 23 spline count? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 So I took the Brat out on some dirt yesterday... I tried to do a hand brake turn......HEAVILY DISAPPOINTED. LOL! You got 80's subaru-ed :-P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 for the turbo engine its best to use a 40 wt oil. Pref. 5w40 or 0w40 syn. Do your research as you will find that "5w30 is not recommended for sustained high speed operation" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 I don't know how you guys run 0w-40!!! Do you have any oil pressure at all???? Its probably great for new cars, built to different clearances. I dont care how good it is 5-40 in my 80's toyota is TOOO noisy. Its just not built for it. My 2001 VW TDI is on a strict diet of only M1 5w40 TDT. But its 20 years newer. It loves it! At least 25psi at idle warmed up. I think I'm in the market for a 10-40 for the ea81T. After a run on the hwy with 5-30 my oil pressure is barely 10 psi at idle and not really holding 10 psi / 1000 rpm. (The rule of thumb that I was taught.) If it has a chance to cool off it will come back. Assuming the cluster gauge is accurate. I might be able to get a test gauge on it tonight. I Might have to get an oil temp gauge. I think those are better than a turbo timer. I mean how do you know if your turbo timer is shutting down at the right temp? Is anyone doing oil cooling with coolant? I threw in a round of DELO 10-30 as an engine flush, and I am much happier with the pressures. It comes out tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 (edited) How to compare oil Apples to Apples: http://www.api.org/Certification-Programs/Engine-Oil-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid/~/media/Files/Certification/Engine-Oil-Diesel/Publications/MOM_GUIDE_ENGLISH_2013.pdf http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf Looks like GF-5 is the best. Most Everything is SN rated. Mobil 1 5w30 is GF-5 Rated if it is pure. NO high millage or other Bull What do others run in their turbo EA 81, 82s? What are your oil pressures? Anyone Doing UOA's? Edited September 30, 2014 by coronan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Can anyone provide more info on the VW CIS fuel pump upgrade? Wikipedia was super vague. Part Number? Years Matching? Engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 You can use the external fuel pump off a gas f-250 with dual tanks. Or any pump rated at 33psi-90psi since there is a regulater already on the intake monifold inline for the injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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