Stevo F Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 I driving our 2005 Outback Sport with 5 speed manual around today and felt it was getting harder to shift into various gears (especially 1st and 2nd). It got so bad by the time I turned into our street to go home, that it wouldn't go into any gear easily so I coasted it on into the garage. A few minutes later, it shifted smoothly through the gears. There was no grinding or any other issues once it went into gear- it just is taking a lot of force to shift. My thought is that it's an issue with the shift linkage- is there periodic lubrication of the linkage needed, and if so, how is it done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djcommie Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 It sounds like you have clutch actuation trouble, or low/no gear oil. Check your hydraulic fluid and master/slave cylinders or clutch cable adjustment (whichever it has). Check the transmission dipstick as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 I rechecked the fluid levels to make sure. Clutch is fluid is good (I recently changed it out as the old stuff was nasty). The transmission oil looks clean (not sure when last changed as I've only the car for 7 months) and is up to full. I did have an issue a few months back where I would get some gear grinding going into fourth. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal so it engages the clutch a little more and that problem went away. Thinking it might be a linkage issue, tonight I popped off the surround around the shifter and removed the shift knob and boot. I lubricate the pivot point of the shifter. It now feels a little easier to shift (I drove it around the neighborhood a couple of times shifting between 2nd and 3rd a lot), but I'm not sure something still won't start binding again. I guess I'll try driving it on the 80 mile round trip commute tomorrow and see how it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 One thing to consider is if the trans has the proper oil. If you had the car 7 mo, perhaps the PO changed the fluid out to present the car. But the trans requires a synchromesh gear oil with GL-5 rating for the differentials. I would recommend replacing the fluid with subaru extra s or an equivalent 80w90 or 75w90 for synchromesh trans if the problem persists. Also as a general rule, subaru does not like to be shifted into first while rolling decel. 2nd ok, put into first as the car is stopped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 I've thought about the oil (also back when it was grinding a bit in 4th). I'll likely go ahead and replace it since it is probably a needed maintenance anyway. It was not better driving to work today, really. No issues until pulling into the parking lot at work- had the clutch in while slowly going around a turn (getting around some goof who parked a semi in the road)-it didn't want to to go into second at all and ground a little when I pushed it in a little harder than it wanted. Does the Subaru Extra S oil generally help for smoother shifting, or if the synchros are getting a little wanky? I've also heard people recommended the GM Synchromesh "Friction Modified" ol as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 I read a lot of good reviews for the Subaru Extra S oil, so I ordered for 4 quarts from Fred Bean- hopefully be here early next week and I'll give it a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 My 86 3door with an 87 RX trans always seemed notchy after i put it together. I had put in a synthetic 75w90. I had the car for a year this way. The shifting was just really notchy, although not grinding. Someone suggested adding a quart of ATF before changing the fluids, which i hadded the quart and drove around for a month like that. Then i changed the gear oil again. No bueno. I finally pucked up some subaru extra s from a local dealer (the first dealer had no clue) and installed this fluid, and my trans shifted much smoother after about 100 miles of city driving. I would imagine the synchromesh GM stucc could work, as ong as it has GL-5 rating on the bottle. This is important because of the front differential, which works the same as any other front or rear diff by itself with gl-5 oil that lacks the synchromesh additives if it is just a diff. The GL-5 rating is for the ring and pinion gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 I haven't gotten around to changing the transmission oil yet, but have noticed more issues with my clutch itself. I've adjusted the clutch pedal so it is engaging the rod to the clutch master cylinder farther in, so the clutch should disengage the transmission when the pedal is higher, but it doesn't disengage until almost to the floor. The transmission has been fairly smooth to shift if you have the pedal to the floor. Last week, I also noticed the clutch pedal was sluggish to come all the way back up. I lubricated the clutch pedal mechanism where I could and it seemed to help. I got in the car this morning (after my wife had driven about 100 miles on it yesterday) and noticed the clutch pedal now barely comes off the floor unless you pull it up with your foot (you could still engage and disengage the clutch but the pedal is almost to the floor at all times). Of course she didn't notice it when she was driving it, so I hurriedly got in the new Impreza so I wouldn't be late for work. I was already was thinking of having the clutch replaced anyway, but what causes the clutch pedal to release?- is it the clutch pedal mechanism, or something in the clutch assembly itself? Could there be an issues with the hydraulics (clutch master or slave cylinder)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Clutch pedal slow to come up? This may be a symptom of a bad slave cylinder. Replace the slave, bleed the system, and that should do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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