New to EJ22 Rebuild - Essential Parts and Questions

[BirdMobile]

Greets, all!

 

I've scraped together 2 different pre-96 (non-interference) EJ22 engines, and a pile of associated parts (air cleaners, alternators, AC compressors, etc.). I have also located snd purchased a pair of ECU modules and harnesses, an older (1991) unit with 4 connectors, and a newer (1995) unit with a single large connector with locking latch lever for the connector.

 

I plan to dissassemble both engines down to the short block (I have no interest in rebuilding the pistons or crank) then taking the best parts of both engines to re-assemble into a single "greatest hits" engine. I then plan to retrofit this engine into a very nice condition rust-free GL-10 wagon body from 1986.

 

I have too many questions!

 

First, and most important - what parts (hopefully with Subaru part numbers) will I need to buy in order to do the engine rebuild? In otherwords, what "consumable" gaskets, O-Rings, seals, etc. do I need? I don't want to spend a fortune and replace everything in the engine, but if there's a $2 part in there that is important, I'd rather err on the side of caution and "get-er-done" while I'm in there - and not break down in a few thousand miles.

 

Both engines have less than 180K miles on them, my goal at the end of this is to wind up with one good solid rebuild that will give me 100K-150K of reliable service if I maintain it properly.

 

Next question - which ECU should I choose? Is the older (1991) or newer (1995) version better in some way, or more widely available? I eventually plan to buy a spare of whichever ECU I end up going with.

 

Last, what important question(s) am I not asking? I am new to the EJ22 world... and I know enough to know that I don't know enough. I want to do this right!

 

Thanks for any input y'all can give.

 

Peace out.

[bratman2]

If both are good engines why would you want to tear them apart. Either will make it over another 100k if they had been cared for. I would replace external seals, timing belt kit, thermostat and water pump. Clean the injectors and roll. When my daughter's 93 Legacy gave up the ghost it was due to considerable overheating by the next owner. It had 212k and consumed very little oil.

[BirdMobile]

If both are good engines why would you want to tear them apart. Either will make it over another 100k if they had been cared for. I would replace external seals, timing belt kit, thermostat and water pump. Clean the injectors and roll. When my daughter's 93 Legacy gave up the ghost it was due to considerable overheating by the next owner. It had 212k and consumed very little oil.

Both engines are partially disassembled or missing parts (injectors, belts, etc.) and one has a frozen water pump.

 

That's how I got them so cheap!

[BirdMobile]

P.S. I also want to KNOW that the final engine is mechanically sound and reliable, the only way I know of to accomplish that is to get inside it and make SURE there aren't any "ticking time bombs" of failing parts, head gasket wear, etc.

 

Plus, I like working on engines. I'm a mutant that way.

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Edited September 19, 2014 by BirdMobile

[johnceggleston]

 

If both are good engines why would you want to tear them apart.

 

P.S. I also want to KNOW that the final engine is mechanically sound and reliable,

well if you weere not new to the subaru world,

or more specifically the ej22 engine world,

you would know that the joy of a subaru with a non-interference ej22 engine is that,

they take a lot od abuse,

they are very reliable,

they are forgiving,

and will run almost forever if you keep oil and coolant in them.

 

can you kill it, if you do not take care of it, of course,

but if you do minimal maintenance,

it will go 300k miles.

even the ones you buy at the salvage yards.

 

so save the time and money on ''rebuilding''

pick one and repalce the timing components, front seals, and the oil separator plate on the rear of the block.

install it and drive on.

by the time it fails you will be ''of a different mind''.

either ready to move on, or swap in another ej22 enbine.

 

one of the most foolish things i have read on the forums is,

''i have a spare ej22 engine to swap in when my current engine fails''.

the chances are you will wreck the car or move on before the current engine fails.

 

the ej22 is the best engine subaru ever made.

it is the quality that has given subaru its reputation

 

good luck.

Edited September 20, 2014 by johnceggleston

[Scooner]

It's true, i did the EA to EJ swap in my loyale with an engine out of a legacy that had 221,000 miles on it. The only thing i did was new timing belt kit, water pump, and new gaskets. Sure the thing has some piston slap but the engine cannot be stopped!

[johnceggleston]

PS: replacing the head gaskets on an ej22 is really easy.

but if there is no need,

i would not bother.

the chances of a head gasket failure on an ej22 is WAY less than the chance of a wreck.

[monstaru]

It's true, i did the EA to EJ swap in my loyale with an engine out of a legacy that had 221,000 miles on it. The only thing i did was new timing belt kit, water pump, and new gaskets. Sure the thing has some piston slap but the engine cannot be stopped!

Piston slap? I call bullsheit.

Video with good sound?

cheers

[AdventureSubaru]

Had that thought myself on a motor. The piston slap sound is likely just sticky HLAs if you have a 96 or earlier motor.

[MilesFox]

I slapped together a shortblock that had 260,000 mi with 145,000 mi heads to put in a forester with 249,000 on the body and trans. I only did the head gaskets because they failed on the original donor car, because i forgot to plug in the radiator fans. 

 

Everything you ever read about head gasket leaks, failures in regard to late model phase 2 engines or ej25d with MLS gaskets need not apply to phase 1 ej22e engines with composite head gaskets like ea82 and ea81 engines always had.

 

You can preemptively do the head gaskets as PM, but it is not necessary. Pip open the head on either block and you will find plenty of crosshatch in the bores even on 250,000 and 300,000 mi engines.

 

Do the rear baffle plate (oil separator) but leave the rear main seal alone. A little weeping is fine, but it is more likely to fail from iporoper installation than leaving it be. This is a general rule and all of your searching will lead to this conclusion.

 

You would be better off leaving the oil pan gaskets alone if they are not leaking. Be aware of the o-ring for the crank breather on the back corner of the oil pan gaskets in regard to excessive oil consumption, if not installed correctly.

 

Use the 1995 intake and harness and ECU as it is OBDII and will be easier to troubleshoot.

[Scooner]

It might be booty slap for all i know? What do i know? Haha it's when i first start that thing i can hear a tap tap rap tap rap tap hip hop bee bop ll cool j sound in the engine then it goes away. Then under throttle i can hear it slightly, what is HLA adventure? I can't think of what that means right now, and it is a 1990 22.

[idosubaru]

i wouldn't use the block with the seized water pump.  how long was it driven without coolant moving?
 

you need:
2 headgasket, 2 intake manifold gasket, 2 exhaust manifold gasket, valve cover gasket/grommet set, metal rear separator plate (uses gasket maker in a tube - no gasket)

*** maybe the two coolant bypass orings on top the engine block - you say it's "partially" disassembled, i have no idea what that means but if there are gaskets involved they may need replaced...like throttle body, IACV...etc.

 

for a proper front end reseal behind the timing belt:
1 crank seal, 1 oil pump oring, 2 cam seals, 2 cam cap orings.

 

the last cheap craiglist special EJ engine a friend bought had rod knock shortly after he installed it.  i would look for signs of running low on oil (cut open oil filter if still attached, pull and look inside oil pan for debris) or coolant (melted timing belt covers, knock sensor, other plastics).

 

I don't think ECu matters much.  i would use a later 1995+ ECU.  i have one or two extras i could sell you, but honestly Subaru ECU failure is nearly unheard of, i wouldn't bother.

[BirdMobile]

grossgary,

Thank you for the info.

 

Both engines are partially disassembled, to different degrees.

Both engines have the intake manifolds pulled off the blocks, but I have all the bolts and both manifolds.

The engine with the seized water pump had both heads pulled and seperate, and all belts, including timing belt pulled. I have a box of parts for it including the head bolts.

The other (newer) engine is missing 2 fuel injectors. The guy who sold it to me gave them to a friend, but assured me it's the only thing he took off the engine.

Wiring harnesses for both engines are seperate and boxed but labeled. I'm not sure either engine has all the sensors and actuators still intact, but the newer (1995) engine at least appears intact other than the 2 injectors.

 

I do not know anything about the history of the engines, except:

 

[a] They were both pulled from Legacy cars with under 180K miles.

The engine with missing injectors but good water pump was from a 1995 Legacy that was T-Boned in an accident, the engine still ran after the accident.

[c] The other engine was from a 1991 car, the guy bought it to rebuild it for a dune buggy project, he started tearing it down then it sat in his garage for years and he lost interest in it and traded it to me for an EA82T engine I had. I don't know why the water pump is seized.

 

I think I might be interested in your ECU sale offer, if it is the single connector with rotating lever connector-latch type. What are you thinking price wise?

Edited September 21, 2014 by BirdMobile

[idosubaru]

I would just run the 1995 as is without even disassembling it.  It doesn't sound like there's any reason to pull the heads.  Bolt up the intake manifold with wiring harness, refresh notable components/seals/gaskets and you're done.

 

I'd get Subaru intake manifold gaskets (aftermarkets can be flimsy thin), thermostat, and metal separator plate.

The Subaru exhaust manifold gaskets are superior too though sometimes the aftermarkets are OEM-like as well.

 

$35 shipped for the ECU.  $40 and i'll include a complete intake manifold wiring harness with it for an EJ22 that may work on the 1995.  I think it's a non-EGR harness, i'm not home now to check. PM me

[idosubaru]

if you replace headgaskets i'd get Subaru headgaskets as well.  EJ engines are less tolerant of aftermarkets than older EA engines.

Edited September 21, 2014 by grossgary