Pgh_Scoob Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Ok so I have been fighting this car since the day I got it and finally thought I had it all figured out. unfortunately it stil has one lingering issue.... random stalling and then long crank until it eventually fires back up.... Long story short... (long story here) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147504-96-legacy-22-codes-and-problems/ Parts replaced for engine light... Fixed Used MAF for reoccurring Fuel Trim bank 1 code BPT valve for EGR code Spark Plugs Wires/ Tune Up for simple maintenance Fuel pump due to random no starts after short trips and rapping on the tank it would start in some instances Few other odd and ends like vacuum hoses and such So after I got the engine light out for good the car ran fine but after a few days I still had this lingering No Start but it has gotten to the point where it stalls while in traffic with no forewarning. It will sit there and crank and eventually start up but it has taken up to 15 min to finally start. After researching a little I read that the crank sensor sends a signal to the PCM to command the fuel pump to run... IIRC. Which then switches a relay under the dash on the drivers side. If the crank sensor were starting to fail I would think there wold be performance issues associated with it and throw a code and not just cause a stall... So thats why Im leaning towards the fuel pump relay.. I think its labeled Main relay 3 Or Main Relay 4... they sit next to one another somewhere in the underside of the drivers dash. I havent had a chance to check it out but hoping to find some time tomorrow but would appreciate any input or advice. Thanks Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 There's no performance loss from a crank or cam sensor issue. If the ECU loses either of those signals it can't determine ignition or fuel injection timing and the engine will just stall flat out. Usually you get a code for those sensors right away though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Yeah that's what I figured so is my thinking the fuel pump relay is the culprit??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 (edited) does it seem to fail after the engine has warmed up? Have you tried some ether-start when it fails? If it tries to run immediately, you know you have spark. anyway CPS is cheap-ish and easy to get to, I think I'd try it. Edited September 23, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 try a new ects--engine coolant temperature sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Have not tried ether but from this being a continuing issue which I thought was from the MAF but before I replaced the MAF I did check for spark and it was always present and I'm trying to put as little money as possible into this thing so putting another sensor on with out being 100% sure is out of the question and any no start I've seen with CPS issues has always had a code for it which I have no codes..... Which is a good thing to an extent. I am not going after the coolant temp sensor because it has always read correct temps in correlation to eng temp and live data. And after researching I am down to the fuel pump relay or the PCM which sends the signal to run the fuel pump. I will be pulling my car into my shop shortly.... Hopefully and can check more stuff out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 engine temp sensor is different than the coolant gauge sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Hah... well I guess Im replacing my Crank Sensor. It died again in the beginning or rush hour traffic after about no more than 3 miles of driving. Came to a stop at a red light and all of a sudden it cut out and just wanted to crank... Few moments later and it fired right up... Oh and to answer earlier questions about short trip or long trip no start (Getting Hot) there is no difference... Completely intermittent at this point. BUT after it started I had a DTC... Stopped by Advance to grab their scan tool and read Crank Shaft Position Circuit Failure... So with all of the other symptoms I think I might go this route... Unless this could be a faulty code set by something else... Oh and I was under the impression the if the ECT was bad it would read -40... Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 I replace the crank position sensor on my 95 motor a few years back. It threw a code once or twice, got the code read, bought a new sensor, and was able to drive the car home from the parts shop. I was lucky, as once motor turned off at home, car would not start again. Replacing the crank sensor was not easy. It was seized, and would not easily come out. I had to remove it in pieces in the middle of winter, and it was cold as hell outside, not something I want to do again. I coated the new sensor with anti-seize goop to prevent gauling for a lot easier removal, if there is a next time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Be prepared to have to ream the old one out of the housing with pliers and a punch. They can get corroded in there pretty good over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted September 24, 2014 Author Share Posted September 24, 2014 Thanks for the input but yeah mine amazingly popped right out.... Which now has me thinking it was changed already.... Sooooo now I get to play the waiting game and pray that it was the crank sensor Will keep you updated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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