Outback assimilated...

[SnatchedHatch]

 

 

So.. I'm back in with you guys, funny how that worked out.

Wasn't looking for a Subaru, but I couldn't pass this one up

If RallyAlex is reading this, sorry bud! As much as I hate to, had to pass on the White Lightning wagon :/

I almost regret that decision, but hey I was about to buy a Toyota SR5 truck, didn't expect to jump back two decades, I have to be weened back on the Subitol

 

I have to point out, this is my 100th post, coming with my second Subie,

THAT'S how it's done

Thank you all for all the help thus far,

Best garddarn forum on the globe!

 

 

 

I'll be working through a few minor issues, and scowering the forum for information as usual.

I'll go ahead and drop the topics, in case anyone would like to chime in

 

1/7 Blown driver's door speaker

 

2/7 one rear window is slow going back up (auto windows),

wind noise on the highway (frameless doors yay, gotta love'em gotta hate'em)

I've heard of lubing up the window rollers.

Would cleaning and conditioning the seals for the doors and windows help?

 

3/7 Rear diff had oil splotch, how do I go about checking the oil level?

 

4/7 Plan on replacing the rear spring/strut assemblies. ...Monroe aftermarket, or pick and pull? The former is decently cheap.

 

5/7 Horn is going out, luckily I still have my low-tone I was going to use to upgrade mee Mazda3.

 

6/7 One rust spot near the rear wheel well,    NEED to take care of that asap.

 

7/7 Full tune-up, timing belt might be original.

Car starts everytime but the first crank struggles.. like *du-duuuuh vroom* like if it lacked the energy to turn over.

I imagine a fresh set of plugs, and the timing belt and oil change should take care of this.

Coolant flush ASAP, brake bleed seems in order as well.

 

~A little TLC and some SeaFoam never hurts,

That seems to be all folks!

Edited September 30, 2014 by SnatchedHatch

[Dj7291993]

Congrats and welcome back.  I think Subaru just gets in your blood.

As for your list:

1) Well, I think you know what you need here.

2) For the window, use white lithium grease on all the metal on metal or metal on plastic contact points, silicone spray on the rubber.  It's a good place to start.  Just try to get the lithium grease in a can, whole lot easier to apply.  Also, you'll need to clean your windows after the silicone.

3) Bottom plug is the drain plug, top one if the fill plug.  Shouldn't be much below the fill plug.

4) Personally, I put KYBs on my 87 coupe, but I get parts at wholesale.  I wouldn't use used struts/shocks unless I had to, but Colorado roads chew them up pretty quick.

5) Again, seems like you know where to go.

6) I love Colorado. Plastic doesn't do so well here, but we don't have to deal with as much rust.

7) Probably ought to check the battery too.

[brus brother]

For the window wind noise, there is a very old post on USMB of a tip given to me by a SOA tech.

The following applies to front doors (not sure about rear windows being frameless?).

Open window.

Now take the upper point of the triangle that holds the speaker assembly between your fingers and give it a squeeze. Test drive and repeat until the noise is gone.

That area becomes distorted from people using the unsupported (no frame) window to open and close the door.

Edited September 28, 2014 by brus brother

[heartless]

#4 - agree with the KYBs - best ever for a Subaru. Do a little research to get the correct part numbers for your car.

I ordered my most recent set from PartsGeek.com - great prices, and pretty fast on shipping, too. Just make sure of what you are ordering - have heard thier customer service is a nightmare - I personally have never had a problem with them, tho. The KYBs I ordered actually cost less than the Monroe versions...

 

Springs - I got a set of OE springs from Park Subaru (http://www.parksubaruoemparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215943) they had the best price I could find for those.

You might also be able to get King Springs to fit - but those are not cheap.

 

#7 - "timing belt might be original."

Plan on getting to that ASAP!! in fact, I would make it job #1 - and at 154K, yes, you probably should do the idler pulleys and other related items as well - look at it this way - do it all now and have peace of mind for around 100K, or do the job again in 10-20-30k, when something fails and breaks the belt - potentially causing even greater headaches (interference motor).

The complete timing kits can be had fairly cheaply from several sources (under $200) and there are lots of threads and articles posted on how to do the job. Miles Fox has some great videos posted on his YouTube channel (

) . it isnt all that difficult, just a bit time consuming if you have never done it before. There are also plenty of folks here that will help you out if you arent sure about something.

 

"Car starts everytime but the first crank struggles..." Check the battery for a date sticker, or a date engraved into the top - it sounds like it may be getting old and due for replacement. also check the cable ends/terminals for corrosion...

[SnatchedHatch]

Off to Walmart to grab some Sony's, coolant, got oil, aaaand got a winter set in the works off of Craigslist.

I'm on the fence on this whole Polar artic winter from hell, irony is harsh mistress.

 

Shox can wait, I'll take a stab at the windows, have all of the above in stock

[AdventureSubaru]

Sounds like a good deal and all simple fixes.

 

Put off all other work until you do your timing belt/pulleys. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t154453-diy-sohc-timing-belt-change-w-pics.html (Writeup makes the job simple. I used it to do my first few timing jobs. it's a long list of steps, but each step by itself is quite simple.

 

It's the only part of the maintenance listed that if neglected will lead to very large failure. If pulley/sprocket or belt goes, you will be stranded and either in need of valve job/new heads/head gaskets etc. or in the market for a new motor. Save yourself headache later and give yourself peace of mind to drive your car without a blowup and get it done SOON. Belts and pulleys have failed around 110k. If yours is original it is living on borrowed time.

 

All else looks great! I love the OBS. Great package on a great platform.

[SnatchedHatch]

I did not mean to imply I was skimping on the timing belt, and come on give a Subie guy more credit.. we all know the dangers of a bad timing belt.

I should have said the previous owner was not informed and as such could not confirm for me, poor choice of wording on my part.

 

Thank you for the link, I did plan on doing a tune-up regardless. The pulley's and pump hopefully in this week.

Was recommended Loctite 518, any experience with it Ad~Sub?

 

Sounds like a good deal and all simple fixes.

 

Put off all other work until you do your timing belt/pulleys. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t154453-diy-sohc-timing-belt-change-w-pics.html (Writeup makes the job simple. I used it to do my first few timing jobs. it's a long list of steps, but each step by itself is quite simple.

 

It's the only part of the maintenance listed that if neglected will lead to very large failure. If pulley/sprocket or belt goes, you will be stranded and either in need of valve job/new heads/head gaskets etc. or in the market for a new motor. Save yourself headache later and give yourself peace of mind to drive your car without a blowup and get it done SOON. Belts and pulleys have failed around 110k. If yours is original it is living on borrowed time.

 

All else looks great! I love the OBS. Great package on a great platform.

Edited September 29, 2014 by SnatchedHatch

[SnatchedHatch]

So.. Autozone quoted me at $270 and ~$330 for a full kit: pulley's, pump, tensioner, belt

Plugs are cheap, I was going to go with NGK's OE spec plugs, those are just copper tips. Any benefit or sense in upgrading the plugs?

[heartless]

So.. Autozone quoted me at $270 and ~$330 for a full kit: pulley's, pump, tensioner, belt

Plugs are cheap, I was going to go with NGK's OE spec plugs, those are just copper tips. Any benefit or sense in upgrading the plugs?

 

None what so ever, unless you like wasting money. all engines are engineered to run their best with specific plugs - those are then recommended in the owners manual. proper gapping is more important than spending more money on a non-recommended plug.

 

You can get good timing kits with all the necessary items for under $200 from online sources - ebay, amazon - even rockauto.

[Olnick]

Also check out The Import Experts and Mizumo Auto.  I've gotten good product, good service and good price from both.

[SnatchedHatch]

I was thinking of RockAuto, due to necessity I would have had to stick with a local source and as you pointed out overpaying significantly.

Plugs: I heard otherwise from somebody today, and I was hoping to find likewise advice from all the great open-minded members . When it comes to straying from O.E. spec, it's not a good idea such as if your car's stock choice is something as advanced as Iridium.

..buuut the OE plugs are basic copper tops.

 

Was told waste-spark can use up copper tops quite rapidly, depending on the system, and upgrading to Platinum tips can resist such force. My Subie seems to have 2 ignition coils for 4 plugs, so I think the upgrade would have merit here, anyone have experience with the EJ22's plug use?

 

Well.. I was also worried that upgrading from something as basic as copper can have adverse negative effects, as switching from OE iridium can cause misfiring.

I bought the NGK G power Plat, since they were about 15 cents more per plugs than the NGK copper tips.

None what so ever, unless you like wasting money. all engines are engineered to run their best with specific plugs - those are then recommended in the owners manual. proper gapping is more important than spending more money on a non-recommended plug.

 

You can get good timing kits with all the necessary items for under $200 from online sources - ebay, amazon - even rockauto.

Edited September 30, 2014 by SnatchedHatch

[SnatchedHatch]

UPDATE on car performance: engine note was a little
rough from the start of today, and the shifts had gone from *nothing to
report* to slightly jerky overnight.

Noon, CEL turned on. Code
P0302 popped up, Cyl#2 misfire. Plan on swapping plugs tomorrow, the
plug wires look almost new (probably original).

Funny thing is.. was driving home an hour ago, and suddenly I noticed the slightly jerky shifting went away.. CEL went away.

Plugs and oil tomorrow

[SnatchedHatch]

#1 was rectified by moving speaker balance slightly to the rear, and more significantly by turning off the ghetto-bass boost feature on the aftrmrkt radio.

Now I can totally live with it

Tackling #2 tomorrow, let's hope the she.ll come off as easy as they come.

Congrats and welcome back.  I think Subaru just gets in your blood.

As for your list:

1) Well, I think you know what you need here.

2) For the window, use white lithium grease on all the metal on metal or metal on plastic contact points, silicone spray on the rubber.  It's a good place to start.  Just try to get the lithium grease in a can, whole lot easier to apply.  Also, you'll need to clean your windows after the silicone.

3) Bottom plug is the drain plug, top one if the fill plug.  Shouldn't be much below the fill plug.

4) Personally, I put KYBs on my 87 coupe, but I get parts at wholesale.  I wouldn't use used struts/shocks unless I had to, but Colorado roads chew them up pretty quick.

5) Again, seems like you know where to go.

6) I love Colorado. Plastic doesn't do so well here, but we don't have to deal with as much rust.

7) Probably ought to check the battery too.

[AdventureSubaru]

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP254-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUA5W6/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1412058276&vehicle=1998-13-62------------1-0&sr=1-4&ymm=1998%3Asubaru%3Aimpreza

 

Gates kit with water pump for $200. shipped to your door. Probably a much higher quality product than what autozone would sell you.

[heartless]

I was thinking of RockAuto, due to necessity I would have had to stick with a local source and as you pointed out overpaying significantly.

Plugs: I heard otherwise from somebody today, and I was hoping to find likewise advice from all the great open-minded members . When it comes to straying from O.E. spec, it's not a good idea such as if your car's stock choice is something as advanced as Iridium.

..buuut the OE plugs are basic copper tops.

 

Was told waste-spark can use up copper tops quite rapidly, depending on the system, and upgrading to Platinum tips can resist such force. My Subie seems to have 2 ignition coils for 4 plugs, so I think the upgrade would have merit here, anyone have experience with the EJ22's plug use?

 

Well.. I was also worried that upgrading from something as basic as copper can have adverse negative effects, as switching from OE iridium can cause misfiring.

I bought the NGK G power Plat, since they were about 15 cents more per plugs than the NGK copper tips.

 

Dont know who you are getting your spark plug advice from, but these engines do just fine with the stock copper core NGKs - they dont "use up" the stock plugs any faster.

All of my cars have gotten the stock replacements and ran/run just fine - have put many trouble free miles on a set of stock replacement plugs.

The only one that has ever given me any ignition type problems is the current 95 (intermittent cyl 2 misfire), and that was due to a bad coil pack (have a video clip up here somewhere on that one) Since swapping out the coil pack, it has been running great.

 

If the OE plug is iridium, then yes, you should use iridium, but a 1998 EJ22 doesnt require, or need them.

[SnatchedHatch]

If the difference was pennies in cost, it can't hurt right?

It would be irresponsibly uneconomical to drive back and return them, not to mention the added pollution to the environment

Dont know who you are getting your spark plug advice from, but these engines do just fine with the stock copper core NGKs - they dont "use up" the stock plugs any faster.

All of my cars have gotten the stock replacements and ran/run just fine - have put many trouble free miles on a set of stock replacement plugs.

The only one that has ever given me any ignition type problems is the current 95 (intermittent cyl 2 misfire), and that was due to a bad coil pack (have a video clip up here somewhere on that one) Since swapping out the coil pack, it has been running great.

 

If the OE plug is iridium, then yes, you should use iridium, but a 1998 EJ22 doesnt require, or need them.

[heartless]

If the difference was pennies in cost, it can't hurt right?

It would be irresponsibly uneconomical to drive back and return them, not to mention the added pollution to the environment