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Just bought this badass thing.. Much cheaper than I could ever hope for to


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Actually, you do. USFS regulations (AKA Federal law): All vehicles must be legal and licensed to travel any forest service access road or four wheeling trail. Next... The AMC engine and running gear are widely considered junk in the wheeling community. That's why everyone swaps them out. The tranny and transfer case will be ok, as will the rear diff since they were not manufactured by AMC, but borrowed from GM. The engine is weak by V8 standards and very expensive to mod as well as prone to low oil pressure issues from crank and cam wear. If you choose to use a Chevy drive train (the cheapest, easiest swap) you'll need everything but the rear diff. AMC put their front diff pinion on the opposite side from everyone else. Add to that they used their own bell housing pattern and output shaft spline count. It renders the tranny and t-case useless for any other manufacturer without mods and adapters though there were a handful of useable GM cases. IE: You could still use the t-case, front & Rear diffs. Next, the body... You've got so much rust there that it's going to start falling off the frame in pieces. These bodies were not meant to be mounted to a frame without some well engineered mounts. I would look very carefully around the current mounting points for cracks in the unibody. It's going to cost you more to properly fix that rust that buying another Brat and bastardizing it onto that frame. Your sill plates are shot and I'll bet if you check your A-pillar frames and under bed frames, you'll find they're on their way out too. These are the main structural points of this unibody. Without them, it's flex and tear city.

 

I'm just being a realist here, not bashing. I built Jeeps for years for myself and others and know the pitfalls firsthand. Yeah, IF you get it titled, you can run it as-is. But for how long? Yes, it looks bad rump roast. I like it! IMO though, you bought a money pit based on emotion with no thought to repairs and upkeep and you paid too much. If they got it through their estate, AND it was licensed to the person listed as the deceased, then they have the legal paperwork to sign a release of interest or lost title document for you to license it with. If not, it's a bureaucratic nightmare of paperwork. 20 years? Rings are most likely rusted to the cylinder walls. The crank itself probably has rust spots on the journals and the carb will most likely be a solid block of resin unless it was drained or the gas evaporated before solidifying. Any bearing surface not sufficiently coated in grease or submerged in oil will have rust. My advice: Renegotiate for $400 or walk away if you can, even if you have to take a $100 learning lesson away from it. If you decide to go through with it, feel free to IM me and I'll help where I can.

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Actually, you do. USFS regulations (AKA Federal law): All vehicles must be legal and licensed to travel any forest service access road or four wheeling trail. Next... The AMC engine and running gear are widely considered junk in the wheeling community. That's why everyone swaps them out. The tranny and transfer case will be ok, as will the rear diff since they were not manufactured by AMC, but borrowed from GM. The engine is weak by V8 standards and very expensive to mod as well as prone to low oil pressure issues from crank and cam wear. If you choose to use a Chevy drive train (the cheapest, easiest swap) you'll need everything but the rear diff. AMC put their front diff pinion on the opposite side from everyone else. Add to that they used their own bell housing pattern and output shaft spline count. It renders the tranny and t-case useless for any other manufacturer without mods and adapters though there were a handful of useable GM cases. IE: You could still use the t-case, front & Rear diffs. Next, the body... You've got so much rust there that it's going to start falling off the frame in pieces. These bodies were not meant to be mounted to a frame without some well engineered mounts. I would look very carefully around the current mounting points for cracks in the unibody. It's going to cost you more to properly fix that rust that buying another Brat and bastardizing it onto that frame. Your sill plates are shot and I'll bet if you check your A-pillar frames and under bed frames, you'll find they're on their way out too. These are the main structural points of this unibody. Without them, it's flex and tear city.

 

I'm just being a realist here, not bashing. I built Jeeps for years for myself and others and know the pitfalls firsthand. Yeah, IF you get it titled, you can run it as-is. But for how long? Yes, it looks bad rump roast. I like it! IMO though, you bought a money pit based on emotion with no thought to repairs and upkeep and you paid too much. If they got it through their estate, AND it was licensed to the person listed as the deceased, then they have the legal paperwork to sign a release of interest or lost title document for you to license it with. If not, it's a bureaucratic nightmare of paperwork. 20 years? Rings are most likely rusted to the cylinder walls. The crank itself probably has rust spots on the journals and the carb will most likely be a solid block of resin unless it was drained or the gas evaporated before solidifying. Any bearing surface not sufficiently coated in grease or submerged in oil will have rust. My advice: Renegotiate for $400 or walk away if you can, even if you have to take a $100 learning lesson away from it. If you decide to go through with it, feel free to IM me and I'll help where I can.

I paid 500. And I do have another brat to throw on it. I also stick to private property almost exclusively. Also have access many parts for rather cheap, and my uncle lives Jeep, so I've got that too.
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Excellent! Like I said, I wasn't bashing, just pointing things out. I hate to see people all googly eyed over something and end up throwing good money after bad. Made that mistake a few times in my younger days. lol Private property you say? That must be nice. :headbang: 

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I am aware of that thats what i was asking

 

Then you should ask if it has Lockers or an LSD.......

 

Not "is it a true 4wd"  yes it is.  It still could spin one tire at each axle and get stuck.  That is true 4wd.  If you want more you need LSD or Locker.

 

Those 2 things are not the same.

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