villainous Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 I've looked all around this forum and a few others but haven't found any information on how to remove the oil pan from a 1400GL. Looking under the engine, all the bolts that hold it on are accessible except the ones near the back, which are covered by a cross-member the engine sits on. How can I get at these bolts? Thought about: 1) lifting the engine slightly, 2) removing the cross-member while supporting the engine on both sides, 3) using magic. Haven't tried any of these yet because I wanted to see if any of y'all have done this before. Thanks in advance for any advice you have! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumoco Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 There should be service holes in the cross member. They could be covered in nastiness though, try poking a screwdriver around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 (edited) I do not think there are any access holes in the '73 engine crossmember (most likely due the the steering gearbox location - it mounts underneath not on top of the crossmember like later models). IMHO the simplest way would be to pull the engine but I suppose you could also lift it enough to undo the oil pan bolts. You might have to undo the engine mounts, engine stay/bracket and possibly the exhaust to get enough room to lift the engine... There are only a few more bolts and the engine could come out. These engines are so easy to remove (with an engine crane/hoist of course)! Edited October 8, 2014 by Leeroy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsunrides Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I would 2nd just pulling the motor if you have the capability. While its out you can check the clutch and the rear main seal. Leeroy, my 73' has the rack on top of the crossmember, which would probably make it more difficult to remove the pan with the engine in the car. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumoco Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I do not think there are any access holes in the '73 engine crossmember (most likely due the the steering gearbox location - it mounts underneath not on top of the crossmember like later models). IMHO the simplest way would be to pull the engine but I suppose you could also lift it enough to undo the oil pan bolts. You might have to undo the engine mounts, engine stay/bracket and possibly the exhaust to get enough room to lift the engine... There are only a few more bolts and the engine could come out. These engines are so easy to remove (with an engine crane/hoist of course)! Oops, my brain read 83 sorry about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
villainous Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Yeah I was hoping to avoid removing the engine just yet.... I thought about using a jack or a crane to lift it just the 20mm or so that I would need to get a wrench in there. I did manage to get all the bolts off, using the service holes (and a shiny new super-long screwdriver), but I have no idea at all how I'll get them all back in. Trying not to think about that yet. Right now, my problem is that the oil pan won't slide forward off of the bottom of the engine. I knocked it loose with a hammer and a 2x4 and it'll slide forward a little, but then binds up against the cross-member. I think sometime in this car's history, she got beached or bottomed out somewhere and the lip around the edge of the oil pan bent outward. I have removed another body piece from the underside of the car that's also a little bent that supports this theory. Any ideas how I can get the pan out and also how I can get all these bolts back in? I swear this is the hardest I've ever worked just to get the oil pan off a car! I can post some pics tomorrow when there's better light in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I would 2nd just pulling the motor if you have the capability. While its out you can check the clutch and the rear main seal. Leeroy, my 73' has the rack on top of the crossmember, which would probably make it more difficult to remove the pan with the engine in the car. Mark Thanks Mark... I did mix that up! Obviously the steering rack is on top of the crossmember on early models and underneath on the later ones... Trust me to post without checking first! Still not easy to get to the oil pan bolts while it is in the engine bay... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 villainous, you will still have the oil pick up to maneuver around so I doubt it will be easy. These model Subarus were designed for the engine to be removed to work on, rather than 'in situ' If you can support the engine it might work to remove the crossmember and steering gearbox entirely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
villainous Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Leeroy: If I support the engine on jack stands on either side, is it safe to remove the cross member? Is the steering gearbox attached to it with the four bolts I see going through (two on each side into a U-shaped bracket that looks like it might be over the steering gearbox)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I would think that might work and yes it sounds like you are describing the steering gearbox mounts. Only thing is you will still have the 4 crossmember bolts, steering tie rods and steering rag joint. Sorry I am not at home at the moment and I cannot check to make sure for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
villainous Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Hrm in the grand scheme of things that seems like less effort than pulling the engine out, if I can support the engine using jack stands instead of needing an engine crane anyway. My first instinct when I saw how the oil pan was positioned was that I'd have to at least lift the engine a little bit. I'm not messing with it any more tonight, but I'll let y'all know how it goes tomorrow. Thanks so much for your help, everybody! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Cool, I have a look at my '74 DL sedan tonight and see what your chances are and post back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeroy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Had a quick look and you will have remove the suspension transverse links too... To me engine out would be much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsunrides Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Hey Leeroy, you have probably forgotten more than I will ever know about these old subies! I just happened to have my crossmember sitting in the spare room (don't tell the wife! LOL). OP, you will need to dissasemble quite a bit to drop the crossmember. It's not just a couple bolts. I understand not wanting to do a lot of extra work, but usually it is pretty cheap to rent a knock down engine hoist for a day or 2 and just pull the engine. Will make putting the pan back on much easier and it really is pretty simple to yank it out. I personally would not want to work under an engine supported by jackstands. It you are set to drop the crossmember, look at buying an engine support bar from a Harbor Freight type place. IIRC, they are under a bill with the ever present 20% off coupon. At the very least maybe a 4x4 with some ratchet straps? Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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