weber experts?

[rrgrr]

I'm having a problem with the choke on my weber, can't seem to sort it -it won't catch and hold, and the way the linkage is behind the housing, I can't see what is going wrong. If I pull off the air filter top I can hold it and make it catch and stay, but it won't 'hook up' by pressing the pedal. I've tweaked the screw this way and that, and made adjustments to the spring, but nothing is working. Done the setup as described by redline guide but it is a vague description, doesn't really detail what is supposed to be happening mechanically.

It's a 32/36 electric choke. Don't really want to convert it to manual choke -it's new and it should work as designed. Never had issues with my old weber on the last car, and I consider myself pretty good with carbs generally, have lined out many different kinds.

Anyone help me out here before it gets cold and I need it?

[BirdMobile]

The documentation on these sucks.

I would personally first verify voltage at the connector, then disassemble that section and look for dirt or other contaminates. Barring that, warrantee it.

[l75eya]

I think the electric part of the electric choke is only used for when the choke is opening. Not setting it when it's cold. Iirc

[l75eya]

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/weber-carb-choke-adjustment-help-868173/

 

Post number 8 here by mcmud is excellent.

[Mykeys Toy]

I second checking for power at the plug.  I had the same problem. It didn't stop there for me it would idle really high until someone pointed that out to me.

[TomRhere]

I have had issues on two separate Weber swaps both choke related.

 

1st.

Make sure that the throttle cable is allowing the throttle plates to fully open.

Have assistant floor the pedal as you look down the barrel of the carb. Engine off of course...

You may have to tweak the cable mount bracket some, along with adjusting the cable to get throttle plates fully opened. Make sure there is slack in cable at idle position.

 

2nd.

If using the Hitachi cable attachment plate on the Weber, make sure the barrel on the end of the throttle cable isn't interfering with any of the linkage on the Weber.

A couple flat washers slipped on the throttle shaft then remount the plate helps there.

[rrgrr]

175eya, that Is an Excellent post on the jeep forum! I will work thru those steps today.

It is getting hard to find guys that know more about carbs than the basics. The pics of the linkage back there are key. The "with your third hand..." caption, -I have seen that somewhere!

Actually I recommend to anyone w/a weber saving that page, like others have said redline's documentation sucks. There is a weber book out there, just don't have it (yet).

Tom, I could not make the linkage get full travel with the Hitchi linkage piece, -the pedal would hit the floor first-ended up cutting the cable end off, using the weber 'swiss cheese' piece on a hole closer to center-What a difference!

Edited October 18, 2014 by rrgrr

[silverback]

What is the color of the choke housing?

[l75eya]

jeep forum quote for ease:
 

Alright lets look at this. There are three main settings to be concerned with aside from a run only hot link to the bi metal spring.
 
First would be the amount of tension on that spring to begin to close the plate to within 1/4" of the air horn wall as the engine cools. This is accomplished as mentioned above in a prior post, repeating that, loosen the cup retaining screws just enough to allow you to rotate the cup. Not so much that friction is lost and the spring will cause the cup to rotate back. Go ahead a turn each way and you will discover how much revolution is required to adjust the position of the plates. Now rotate it until it is expected to stop, that being the gap I mentioned earlier. If it isn't no worry it will when all three steps are performed. So for now rotate the cup until it closed against an internal (unseen)stop and then rotate it say 1/8" more. This will preset a near enough to correct setting for now.

Make certain there is enough tension of the retaining ring on the cup to prevent its rotation except by the force of your hand.

Now locate the fast idle lever. It is behind that cup between it and the carb body. It will have a linkage rod attached and that rod will extend into the lever attached to the choke plate. Look closer at the lever and you will notice an adjuster screw kinda hidden behind the choke assembly. It will rest on the fast idle step of that lever when set. If the lever will pivot without that screws contact run the screw in until it just happens to sit on that step with the choke plate closed. Now run it in say a 1/16th turn more. You will adjust the screw to suit your needs after the start up and should be the only thing to adjust once these procedures are completed.
 
Next look at the far end of the assembly and locate the choke qualifier. IIRC turning it in will richen the setting and out will weaken the mix. This is accomplished by how far away or near the plate stops from the air horn as was mentioned earlier. This qualifier is powered by internal vacuum channel. So if this last adjustment is done with the engine started vacuum will open the choke to the 1/4" open if that adjuster screw is set correctly. If it needs to open more to be set correctly, back that screw out. If it needs to be set nearer run it in.

If you want to set it with the engine off then apply finger pressure to the lower edge of the plate to simulate the air flow. Adjust that screw in the same manner.

Now lastly on a fully cooled engine check this setting by opening the throttle plate at least half way and see if the plates snap fully closed. If it does not rotate the cup until it does, tighten the retaining screws and you got r done.

Here are a few images that may help better comprehend some of that which I wrote.

All credit to the forum and members linked above.

Edited October 19, 2014 by l75eya