sirtokesalot Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 (edited) hello i just got my first subaru after seeing how well my friends does every winter. i got the car for 300 bucks it sat a few months before i boguht it. im having an abs issue the abs is activating more than it should i can feel it kicking back at me even with slow stops. if i pull the abs fuse it will lock up on the front right before any other tire what could the issue be? i did check the brake on that wheel and it all seemed to look normal aside from needing pads soon. im also having a cold start issue where after its sat overnight it doesent like to start the first time cranking and ill have to stop cranking and start again and on the second crank it will fire up.it has the 2.2 n/a engine. Edited October 21, 2014 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 brakes shoudl work as normal with ABS fuse pulled. so if there's issues with the ABS fuse pulled I would assume there are issues with the brake system, not the ABS system. check caliper operation 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 didn't some older cars with ABS get a recall to flash the ECU? crappy tires could also be an issue. maybe even a stuck caliper on that front-right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 (edited) start by checking the calipers and slide pins - make sure the caliper moves freely on the pins One brake locking up like you are describing says issues with that caliper. cold start issues - would start with a basic tune-up and see where that gets you new plugs at proper gap can help a great deal having sat for a while, it could probably use some fresh gas, and maybe a bottle of Tecron run thru the tank to clean the fuel system. Edited October 22, 2014 by heartless 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj7291993 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 While you are checking the calipers, take a look at the hoses too. Bubbles will usually cause a soft pedal, but a twisted line could be holding some pressure on on caliper, kind of like a check valve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PA Grown Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 And while you're checking the brakes look at the abs sensor that's hooked onto the rotor (I believe) and is mounted on the strut like the brake line is. Clean it. Otherwise maybe a warped rotor tripping that abs sensor. That sensor also monitors wheel rotation which tells your computer when to activate the ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PA Grown Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 (edited) Also there's a cold start solid fuel line on your fuel rail somewhere. Crack that when it's cold and see if gas pours out. It could possibly be just needing a tuneup. Edited October 22, 2014 by PA Grown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 ive decided the brakes are going to get new pad and rototrs all around due to rust on the rotors it feels like the fornts are warped and the rears sound like somtihng is grinding. the start issue is still there ill have to make a video of it tomarrow morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 if you have Soob rotors, keep them if they are over the minimum thickness stamped on them. A bedding-in procedure will often take care of that 'warped' feeling. http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PA Grown Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) Is that like resurfacing then truing the rotor Texan? Where's that video man? Edited October 24, 2014 by PA Grown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 I suppose if the car sat around long enough, with already worn rotors, you could get new ones. On a $300 car, just get regular centric rotors (or maybe Premium) and Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic pads, or any ceramic pads on sale maybe? Don't forget to flush the old brake fluid out too. If 95s have the little shoes in the rear for parking brakes, there's a star adjuster for those behind a rubber plug in the backing plate. as a GENERAL rule, you should try to keep OEM brakes parts as they are great quality and robust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PA Grown Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Lol you don't think technology has advanced since 95? Theres better brakes for less these days. I wouldn't keep a piece of metal that's almost 20 years old with 250xxx or whatever miles on it. Metal parts get replaced constantly because time weakens them. But you're right they are still well built parts, just old and weaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Brake rotors don't last the life of the car. A car with 250,000 miles will generally be on its 3rd set of brake rotors. Napa rotors are good quality and cost much less than dealer parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PA Grown Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Beck arnley was made to be the parts super store for all the Asian vehicles good quality decent cost. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 every BA part I've gotten seems OK. I'm gonna try some Febest transverse links on my wife's Outback. I stupidly replaced the leaking OEM with Prothane and they are HARSH! (but, quicker-feeling take off and braking response) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 i started to pull the rear brakes off today to find out what i needed exactly for the rear and found that my pads are good and the scraping was coming from the parking brake i managed to get th epassenger rear brake and rotor off but the drivers side rear the 2 bolts for the caliper bracket stripped and are now a round shaped thing no socket i have fits on how do i get it off now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) i started to pull the rear brakes off today to find out what i needed exactly for the rear and found that my pads are good and the scraping was coming from the parking brake i managed to get th epassenger rear brake and rotor off but the drivers side rear the 2 bolts for the caliper bracket stripped and are now a round shaped thing no socket i have fits on how do i get it off now? there are techniques and tools to deal with that but, if have minimal tools, try using a propane/MAPP torch to heat the bolts, then, file a coupla flats opposite each other and use some vice grips to try to get them out. If you have acetone and ATF - mix 50/50 and use like a penetrating fluid - or buy some PB Blaster or Kroil. I'm sure more experienced mechanics will chime in with some ideas. Edited October 29, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Sometimes when I've jacked up a bolt head like that, I take my Dremel and grind the edges of the head enough to get the next smaller socket on it. Takes a little time, but works nicely. More involved than what 1 Lucky Texan described above with creating two flat surfaces on the head to grab it with some vice grips, but better holding power, too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) ^^^ good idea - might even find an English socket that would fit. Probably better to try that before any heating - a lot of heat will soften the head even more. 6 point socket would be best. Edited October 29, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj7291993 Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Sears has some bolt extractors. They are sockets, but the inside looks more like a flower than a hex. The have a spiral blade in them, so as you twist it, they bite further on. I'll usually tap it on with a hammer first to get it started. I think a small set is around $20. They usually work pretty well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Any bolt extractor set I've ever used on rounded heads just rounds them even more. These especially since they have a flange head, the extractor can't go on far enough to get the proper bite. The best option is probably to hammer on the next smaller size 12 point socket. A torch is no good in that area because the heat may damage the wheel bearing or cook the axle boot. You can replace the bolts with grade 8 metric bolts from the hardware store if they carry them in the proper length. More than likely you'll need to get some spare bolts from a junkyard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) i have new bolts from my local hardware store that are the correct length and i have used one of these extractor bits all ready witch has landed me with the worst off rounded bolt than i had originally. it started as a 14 the 14 began to go around so i tried to hammer a 1/2 on it it was snug i tried to remove the bolt again the 1/2 started spinning then i found my 1/2 strip socket it fit snug at first but as i started to turn it all it did was shave away the ends that were left and now i have a round headed bolt that nothing will grab. im thinking im going to go to the yard tomorrow and see if i can get the rear drivers caliper bracket off of a car in the yard and just cut my current stuck one off. i believe i screwed myself. Edited October 29, 2014 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I think only the caliper brackets are threaded, I think the holes in the bearing housing the bolts pass through are not tapped? If that's the case I think you could just grind the heads off the bolts and give them a bit of tapping to push the bolts out. I'm just thinking that might work because one time I had one of those bolts snap on me, but the bracket still came off and the broken bolt was in the caliper bracket (didn't get stuck in the bearing housing). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 well now i have all 4 main brakes working they all had stuck slide pins the last person used some gold looking stuff to lube them that hardened i got all the brakes moving freely now new pads on front rear pads were good i left the rotors for now because they were stopping fine and i dont have the money. the abs issue is an abs issue the passenger front abs ring that the sensor reads from is very worn down more on the passenger side than the drivers side i tried to clean it up a bit but the abs issue got worst how hard is it to change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) I forget exactly how the tone wheel is set up on the '95, I think it is bolted to the back of the hub (that was before the tone ring was pressed onto the end of the axle). If it's bolted to the back of the hub I think you have to pull the hub to replace the tone ring (provided that's the issue). That's a small pain since it means you have to get the axle out of the hub, get the hub out of the bearing housing (I use a big honking slide hammer with an attachment that bolts onto the hub). Then you'll have to press the hub back into the housing (I use the Harbor Freight FWD wheel adapters kit). Basically if it were me and time/money were tight I'd probably just leave it, the brakes will still work you just won't have ABS. The Brighton models for example didn't have ABS anyway. The gold crap might have been copper antisieze or something like that, which right on, the grease hardens up over time. It seems to harden up eventually even with a good brake lube so antisieze probably hardens up even faster. Edited October 30, 2014 by porcupine73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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