shortlid Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Ok I have been trying to contact the Colorado based Subaru axle rebuilder for months with no luck. Trying anouth route found a NEWcompltte axle at O'Rilley's Autoparts Storefor $69! LIFETIME WARRENTY, company is OE Direct out of MO. Anyone tried there products? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belacane Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I believe that's what I put on my '86 Brat about a year ago. No issues so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) Nice thanks for reply. Any balance or vibration change at idle? Edited October 23, 2014 by shortlid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belacane Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Not that I notice, but my Brat has also had tons of carb issues over the past year, and idle hasn't been at a regular constant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Got ya, can't tell from box where actualy made. That concerns me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Contact Shawn at Retro Roo. Used Subaru axle and reboot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Tried, just got a response, said $96 plus have to ship old axle back for core. Wonder how long would take from Mt. West also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PA Grown Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 If you ever rip a boot just throw grease and put a boot on it and it'll get some more mileage. Or put the hub end of the cv joint in mineral spirits for a bit with out the boot on it. Let it dry repack it and reboot it and you've got yourself a clean axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 It is shaking at idle so thinkits shot at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 Anyone ever used a Cardone NEW axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 I was thinking about rigging up another heat shield between the cat anf the CV boot to try to protect it more. Or would header wrap be better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Anyone ever used a Cardone NEW axle? yes, and they are not good - cheap, chinese junk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) I put a new axle from Napa on my GFs 95 a few months ago and it works pretty well. It has the same style and size cups as a Subaru axle. I don't remember the cost off hand. She works for Carmax so she gets a good discount through Napa. Edited October 25, 2014 by Fairtax4me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKFlight Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Put 2 Reman Napa CV's on my 01 Legacy GT, they looked pretty good. Came with new roll pin and axle nut, put close to 1.5k on em now. No vibrations or anything strange, can't really beat the price. Plus a core charge. On NAPA's site it gives a Cardone Warranty, took a chance so far I didn't get burned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 There's no need to ask about particular brands - aftermarket axles are a gamble. Can you find someone with a good experience with your axle? Of course - that's a silly question. Are there good experiences with them? of course there are. no one would say every single axle ever bought it bad. But 7 out of 10 good experiences (i bet it's not even that high over 100,000 miles) is an atrocious failure rate that would make most people livid in any other industry. If a gas station gave you bad gas 3 times out of 10 people would be livid over that kind of failure rate. But with axles people are game to gamble. I guess if the industry takes a dramatic shift some day and starts churning out better parts - that answer could change, but i doubt it. There's 4 resources for good axles if you value you're time and think high failure rates are loopy: Reboot Subaru OEM FWE axles Raxles Subaru OEM reman If you're flipping the car, not likely to put many miles on it, don't care about replacing the axle again - then go get whatever axle is easy and convenient and do it. If you want high mileage repeatability - reread the list above. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith3267 Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 The new axles come out of China and most of the time, they are better than any remans out there. You didn't mention exactly which model/year you have so I would suggest you try autopartswarehouse.com and look for new EMPI brand axles. They are few bucks more and are Chinese made, but I have had good luck with them and so have some others that I know. The Cardone and GSR brands, not so much. Remans have always given me the most trouble though, most seem to be reboots of worn out old axles with a stiffer grease to mask the wear. They don't last long. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 Glad I did not reboot my stock axle. Inner was SHOT so loose almost fell out of cup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PA Grown Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Daaaamn dude. Good thing lol yah you can always check for play on the axle. I usually get a new cv joint instead of rebooting but hell, if the axles still good rebooting can save it usually and save you a good chunk of $ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I was thinking about rigging up another heat shield between the cat anf the CV boot to try to protect it more. Or would header wrap be better? I've wondered about that. I also wouldn't mind trying some silver/aluminized paint on the boot - but have no idea what could survive without just flaking-off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zogg Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I just yesterday installed a new left side front cc axle....I bought it from Amazon for about$70. It's an empi brand which I read on another site it supposed to be pretty good...we will see. Came with axle but and pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjohnsto Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Hello, 2007 Outback (4cyl) Newby here.... I'm a maintenance "Dad" and just found the daughter's Outback needs a couple items. Having done a quick search, this forum came up first, so first of all, the drivers CV axle. The inner boot has been torn for a while, so the entire axle will be replaced. Having worked on other cars, most of the bits on doing are understood..... Questons are: Do you have to compress the spring to do the job? To move the spindle away from the axle, is it better to drop the ball joint or the tie rod or drop the 2 bolt- lower strut mount, which maintains the alignment? Is there a repair procedure section on this Forum? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 if the axle isn't making any noises - reboot it and be done with it. that OEM axle will last 200,000 miles for certain. a replacement aftermarket axle can not come anywhere near close to making a claim like that. 1. no spring compressor needed. 2. avoid the ball joint at all costs. the pinch bolts have issues, the housings can crack, and the ball joints can be seized in place - those are all common issues in rust prone areas. 3. remove the two strut mount bolts - they never have issues or leave you stuck on a job, ever. you can even loosen the lower bolt and remove the top - then the spindle pivots out enough to pull the axle. 4. mark the bolt head (not the nut) of the top strut mount bolt - it holds the alignment. pre-mark it's location in relation tot he strut mount so you can reinstall it the same way. i cut the metal - like use a chisel - that won't get erased. markers can work - just dont' erase your mark. you can download free FSM's all day long from online - just get one of those so you have everything. for the front axle job it's essentially the same from 1990 Legacy to your 2007 all 2005-2009's are the same. 2004 and earlier are the same except the axle doesn't have a pin - it just pulls out of the transmission. remove wheel unbolt 32 mm axle nut mark top strut bolt head remove top strut mount bolt loosen lower bolt pull axle out (i think 2007's don't have an axle pin - they just pull out of the transmission) pull axle off trans - push it "upwards" to give you room to slide it out of the hub - then snake it out from under the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjohnsto Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 grossgary:... Many thanks. The outer cv nut is off. Will prep everything else and get to this in a day or two after the parts are here. Same side needs brake rotor and caliper.. regards.. RJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjohnsto Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Just to verify... I understand that the upper strut mount bolt is an adjustment for camber. One complete rotation of the bolt takes the alignment over the entire range of camber adjustment from +n to -n. So the sweet spot won't change if the marks are re-aligned as they were... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) correct - line up the marks and you're done, it is strictly bolt head orientation only that matters. no other factors involved. it'll look really obvious how it works when you see the cambered bolt - or look it up online. good job - sometimes that 32mm is a beast to get off. i broken 3 1/2" ratchets/breaker bars before finally getting a 3/4" set and a 1,000 ft-lb air gun just for axle nuts. Edited November 2, 2014 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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