FINALLY got a replacement 5spd d/r. Couple questions

[MR_Loyale]

gloyale, thanks for your reply. I was pretty much counting on you to chime in because you really seem to know your stuff.

 

The starter fits. I think it was just because it was the last thing I was working on last night and it was dark and I was tired that it was giving me fits and I just gave up, got it fit in today and it clears the flywheel. Phew.

 

Got all the shifter linkage hooked up,

got the interior all put back together,

got the exhaust bolted all back in place,

swapped the exhaust mount from my old trans to the new one,

got the car OFF the ramps finally (made working under the hood a pain),

got the driver's side turbo axle installed

couldn't get the mot$*($#$# pass side axle through the hub by the time night-fell and I'd been working on the car ALL day, no food, no breaks so by that point "The Madness" was beginning to set in so I threw everything under the car and called it a night.

 

Sucks that I have to wait until next weekend to get it finally all buttoned up

 

Things to do:

Pass side axle

Install starter

hook up speedo cable (wish me luck with that. I MAULED it taking it off =( )

spare tire support

etc odds and ends

adjust clutch (it's not well adjusted right now but I notice that the pedal is not really springing back up like it used to, does anybody have any ideas on that or is it just because it's not adjusted properly?)

and, Mr_Loyale, drain the gear oil and fill with fresh new stuff (any suggestions?)

 

Thank you all for going through this job with me through this thread, you've all helped immensely. You people who swap out a trans in a day amaze me, this weekend coming up is going to be weekend number 4 of working on the car

 

You are doing a fantastic job IMHO. It isn't how long it takes you, just that you see it to the end. It took me almost 4 months when I did mine and I had lots of fancy tools such as the engine stand and hoist. You are out there on your own turning bolts with 25 years of greasy crap hitting you in the eye. Slow and steady your first time doing it is a great way to ensure success the first time.

 

On the clutch, I had to adjust mine quite a bit so I reckon you will have to do the same. Great job so far, keep going you are almost there!  One day you will tell your kid the story about how important it is to make sure the transmission has the proper fluid level.

Edited November 19, 2014 by MR_Loyale

[MR_Loyale]

Two85s, thanks for the kind words. Can't give up on it, need it back on the road and, well, learning experience and what not.

 

Hsoj, i was wondering that exact thing myself but i don't know squat about how any of that works which leads me to

 

Ibreakstuff, what? Lol, could you elaborate?

When you say rear gear you're talking about the diff itself?

What is the pinion?

And when you say carriers??

Basically i have no idea what you're talking about and I'd like to understand

 

Thanks

 

 

This should help:

 

 

 

 

Edited November 19, 2014 by MR_Loyale

[jmoss5723]

All the linkages i have from the junkyard transmission they used a torch and just cut them all out. The attachments to the trans are there but then it's just about 5 inches of metal to the cuts. Don't think that'll be of any help.

 

[Hsoj]

 

For hsoj and 175eya: (thanks to numbchux)

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/63821-pics-of-lsd-conversion/

 

The carrier is the guts of a diff, the part that does the work. The idea is to replace the open carrier with the lsd carrier but keep the ring, pinion, and case matched.

 

Edit: More good reads..

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 (the clsd shown here is ours, 2way plated goodness)

http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/diy-upgrading-replacing-rear-differential-14270.html

Nice writeups! Thanks!

[l75eya]

Well, the car is back together but now I have a strange problem and I'm hoping I didn't just install a bad transmission.

 

When the car isn't running I can put the trans through all 5 gears and reverse no problem.

 

 

 

With the clutch in when I go to put it in forward gears the revs drop and the car tries to move slightly and I really have to slam it in to a gear. To get first I have to shove it in to 2nd and then really slam it in to first. It won't just go in to first.

 

Same with reverse. It grinds into it and I have to slam it.

 

Could this be a linkage thing? Or are the synchros completely shot? Halp!

[l75eya]

The fact that it goes through the gears with the engine not running makes me think the linkage is fine.

 

When it's in a gear when with the clutch pushed in it is trying to barely move the car. I'm at a loss.

[Hsoj]

If its not adjusted properly it could do that. That was what happened to my brat when one of the clutch plate springs busted loose so I couldn't change gears. The plate is in correctly I assume, not backwards? Bent clutch fork or like in Carfreak85's post, linkage problems?  http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149901-ea81t-w-ea82-5-speed-difficult-to-shift/

Edited November 22, 2014 by Hsoj

[Ibreakstuff]

Sounds like the clutch cable is too loose and it is not fully disengaging when you press the clutch in.

[l75eya]

Hsoj, I checked out that thread. Does sound similar but there are just too many variables to make heads or tails of it. He has ea81 parts, ea82 parts, XT parts.

 

I'm working on a direct bolt on swap with a basically identical transmission. I'm thinking MAYBE the clutch fork is bent but I really doubt it because it seems my clutch is disengaging and engaging fine with extra pedal to spare.

 

I appreciate the link though and it is food for thought.

[l75eya]

I break stuff, sounds like it and acts like it but I don't think so. I've had the clutch adjusted through almost the whole range of adjustment and the problem persists.

[l75eya]

I should mention that when I have the car in a gear, I have plenty of pedal to let the clutch out and engage the gear. I've had it adjusted to the point where the clutch grabs real low on the pedal and real high.

[l75eya]

Maybe it's worth mentioning, could an improperly adjusted hill holder cause problems?

[Ibreakstuff]

Maybe it's worth mentioning, could an improperly adjusted hill holder cause problems?

 

Yes, you could easily disconnect it to test also.

 

Edit: The HH is the first thing I remove, I wouldn't trust any HH on a steep San Francisco hill anyways.

Edited November 22, 2014 by Ibreakstuff

[l75eya]

Hill holder disconnected.

Same crap.

 

Just had a thought. Reverse doesn't have a synchro, yet it grinds in to reverse as well. That makes me think maybe it is not a synchro issue....

[l75eya]

Just brainstorming here;

 

Reverse has no syncros, from my understanding. That's why it's important to come to a complete stop before engaging reverse.
Why is it that it's common practice to shift in to 1st gear, and then in to reverse? What does that action do?

I'm asking because if my understanding is correct, reverse is grinding because the input shaft is still spinning.
If the input shaft is still spinning, that means my clutch isn't disengaging completely, though I do find that hard to believe I must admit that when I put the new throw-out bearing on, I re-used the old clips that clip it to the clutch cable fork.

They were at first a little jiggly, so I removed them and bent them a tiny bit so they held tighter, then I re-installed them.

Maybe one of those clips could have come off? Would I be able to see them if I pull the starter out (again!!) and peek in there? Or maybe if I remove the clutch cable fork rubber boot I can peek inside and see if the throw-out bearing is sliding uniformly.

 

I'm so tired of working on this car now, I just want it to be done already..

[turbosubarubrat]

Miss adjusted hill holder and clutch cables. Had this problem on my 84 brat and my hatch.

[l75eya]

Miss adjusted hill holder and clutch cables. Had this problem on my 84 brat and my hatch.

Hill holder disconnected. Not the HH.

 

Clutch cable; I've adjusted it pretty much through it's entire range, from being adjusted so far that the clutch wouldn't engage even with the pedal up to the clutch barely engaging with the pedal to the floor.

 

Not thinking it's an adjustment issue either. Don't get me wrong. I really wish it were that simple.

[MR_Loyale]

It sounds as though your clutch fork is not fully engaging the release bearing against the pressure plate to disengage the clutch from the flywheel. Thus your input shaft is still being driven while you are attempting to shift. Cable adjustment seems the likely culprit. Check to make sure you didn't forget a spacer nut or something when you put the clutch cable back on. Did you take pictures of the clutch cable attachment before you did the swap?

[turbosubarubrat]

Add a lug nut for a spacer to see if that helps.

[l75eya]

I thought about that, but check this out

 

When I first went to adjust the clutch, I tightened the adjusting nut ALL the way to the end of it's adjustment. Like a fool. I realized this was wrong when I got in the car and had it in a gear (can't remember if it went in to gear at this point or not. I don't think it did) and then let the clutch out and the car wouldn't move.

That's when I realized "Oh. The car isn't moving because the adjusting screw is too tight and the clutch isn't engaging"

I loosened it and then I could get the car to move by releasing the pedal.

That being said, I'm not so sure what you chaps have suggested will work, but I'll give it a shot tomorrow anyway.

[l75eya]

Tried the lug nut thing. No use. Tore it all apart yesterday, found a throw out bearing clip had fallen off.

Split the drive train just enough to get my hand in there.

 

Hopefully bolting it all back together today. Was being a pain getting trans and motor to line up.

 

Never changing a transmission in a gravel driveway at the onset of winter by myself ever ever again.

[MR_Loyale]

Tried the lug nut thing. No use. Tore it all apart yesterday, found a throw out bearing clip had fallen off.

Split the drive train just enough to get my hand in there.

 

Hopefully bolting it all back together today. Was being a pain getting trans and motor to line up.

 

Never changing a transmission in a gravel driveway at the onset of winter by myself ever ever again.

 

You didn't reuse the old clips did you?

[l75eya]

I did. Bent them back in to shape. I'm aware this isn't advisable lol.

[Sapper 157]

Look what I got! 89k on it, has been sitting in a container at the junkyard I picked it up from since 1993. Car it came from was an 85 so it was only used for 8 years. High mileage for it's age, but low mileage for me!! The trans in my car is getting pretty bad too so it couldn't be better timing.

 

Anyway, excitement aside, reason for posting;

I'm going to be scouring all the threads on how to swap transmissions out, as I've never done one, as well as clutch jobs as I figure I may as well put a new clutch in while it's all apart.

 

I'm figuring I'm going to pull the car up on ramps on all four wheels, that should give me a pretty good working space underneath the car.

 

Do I need to remove the flywheel and have it re-surfaced? Is that advisable? My car has 82k on it.

 

Also, should I go through the trouble of cleaning it up and painting it before installing it? Any tips or things to check on beforehand?

 

I have a lot of questions about how things are going to connect, but I figure as I take my trans out I will see.

 

Glad I've FINALLY found one.

 

 

Its Beautiful!       

[l75eya]

Well I'm at a complete loss. All back together again and still the same.

 

The clutch seems to not be disengaging. At all.

 

With the front in the air and the wheels spinning free, even with the clutch pedal pushed in the wheels turn when it's in gear.

 

If I hit the brake it stalls the motor.

 

The clips on the throw bearing are in place (and it seems to me they only really ensure the bearing releases when the pedal is released) I can SEE the bearing pushed up against the pressure plate flanges and I KNOW there's good pressure on them because the clutch adjustment is so far in I only have half travel on the pedal before the fork hits the bell housing.

 

I thought MAYBE the friction disc rusted to the flywheel but that seems HIGHLY unlikely and I'd think the weight of the vehicle being moved would break it free.

 

I'm at a loss. This sucks.