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EA81 Engine not starting


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Bench testing an EA81 engine cranks over but won't fire . I have can verify the following


1) spark at the plugs
2) fuel in the carby 
3) timing set at 8 btdc at flywheel 
4)good compression
5)new coil (wires Yellow negative and black and white positive side of coil)
6)spark leads in correct firing order 

 

I think it could be a timing issue or distributor settings but would appreciate some advice. Thanks. Tucker



 

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Pull the spark plugs to see if they are fuel fouled from unsucessful starting attempts.

Once dry,loosen the distributer clamp a little so that you can adjust timing while a buddy tries to start the car.

Slowly move the distributor thru its range of adjustment while buddy cranks the motor.

You will hit the sweet spot as long as the timing is not wildly off.

 

Or,use a timing light.

The engine does not need to be running,only cranking.

Check the plugs for fouling,regardless.

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Thanks for the replies . I have checked and cleaned the plugs . Timing is set at 8 btdc at the flywheel . Distributor rotor arm is pointing at # 1 cylinder . I just want to check if rotor arm should be pointing at #1 cylinder lead at the rotor cap or at #1 at the lead on the cylinder head . Also where does piston #1 need to be when cranking the engine to get it started with the timing .thanks

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Thanks for the replies . I have checked and cleaned the plugs . Timing is set at 8 btdc at the flywheel . Distributor rotor arm is pointing at # 1 cylinder . I just want to check if rotor arm should be pointing at #1 cylinder lead at the rotor cap or at #1 at the lead on the cylinder head . Also where does piston #1 need to be when cranking the engine to get it started with the timing .thanks

 

I do not understand your question.

If the engine is cranking #1 piston will be in ALL possible positions.

 

The rotor needs to point at the contact in the cap for #1 w/the timing mark lined up.

Having it point at the cylinder is meaningless.

 

You need to remember that the motor turns twice for every 1 turn of the disty,so you can have everything lined up properly and still be 180 degrees out at the distributor.Engine needs to be on the compression stroke.

 

Did you have the disty out?

You might try swapping the wires 180 degees on the cap.

Better yet,put a timing light on it.

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#1 cylinder has to be at 'top dead center' with both valves closed.  Remove the valve cover. Verify both valves for #1 cylinder are closed and your flywheel timing mark is at '0'.  Your distributor may be 180 degrees out. If 180 out,  remove distributor clamp bolt,  pull up until shaft rotates freely,   rotate shaft so rotor lines up with the #1 terminal on cap. You will have to play with the shaft position since it rotates a little when you lower it down. Take your time, this can be frustrating.

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get #1 cylinder on TDC and then take a pic to show us where the rotor points - means have dizzy cap off please.What direction have you set the firing order around the cap ? Clock or anti clock ?

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I managed to get the engine to fire but not run even for a few seconds . Firing order is 1-3-2-4 counter clockwise . I have been using easy start in the carb. I have attached some pics of my ignition timing settings and of the valves .

 

If the engine fired with starter fluid but won't stay running, then it seems to me like it isn't getting fuel.

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With the #1 piston at TDC, on the compression stroke, the intake and exhaust valves will have clearance to the rocker arms.. Checked with feeler gauges and calibrated fingers.........( grab and wiggle ).  Did you set/recheck the valve lash?  The distributor rotor points to the #1 spot on the distributor cap.

I always advise against starter fluid because it is an explosion in the cylinder, it is dry and flashes off lubricating oil, and is extremely hard on rings. 99.9% of people use too much.

 

TDC is a reference point for checking settings.  Change the timing for starting/running. I hope you have a good 'bench'.

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