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interchange left and right too, correct? i wil be following grossgary's procedure (outlined in the thread below post #22) to swap out the axle tomorrow.

i also found this youtube vid which does a nice job of visualizing the procedure

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149714-new-cv-axle-from-oedirectorilleys/

 

 

Edited by hogweed
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well that went well. only problem is the 'good' axle looks to be aftermarket.....i plan on rebooting the green one and possibly reinstalling it after the insp. once the shifter parts get here i can get that shifter firmed up and get this buggy on the road again!

 

thx for all the great input/advice/direction

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2007 OBW -

I'm about to remove the axle ( reboot) and am concerned about the ABS sensor wire getting stretched, even after unbolting all the fastening points.  Would it be better to remove the sensor from the hub before jostling the lower assembly to remove the axle?

thx

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2007 OBW -

I'm about to remove the axle ( reboot) and am concerned about the ABS sensor wire getting stretched, even after unbolting all the fastening points.  Would it be better to remove the sensor from the hub before jostling the lower assembly to remove the axle?

thx

 

generally speaking remove as few smaller bolts like ABS sensor bolts as possible.  with rust - those things can easily shear off.  don't go there unless you have to.  it's gonna be really simple....either you have enough room to perform it or you don't and you remove one extra bolt to give you more room. 

 

rust tips:

1.  use 6 point socket only

2.  have penetrant available

3.  alternate loose/tigthen movements a few degrees if tight to help work it out

4.  give bolts a rest if they're tight.  loosen....go do something else....loosen, go do something else....work it back and forth....go do something else.

 

that time gives the metal a chance to cool down.  i pull rusty fasteners all the time and they can be hot enough to burn you when they come out.  scorching from all the resistance.  that heat also degrades the metal and makes them prone to shearing.

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Plus 100 to what grossgary has said - do NOT get in a hurry with rusty fasteners.

 

Having a good quality penetrating oil is also essential (WD-40 is NOT it, however)

 

also, pick up a can of this stuff http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05002 - when used as directed it really does work!  Living in northern Wisconsin, rusty fasteners are a way of life, i wouldnt recommend something that I havent used and had success with.

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Plus 100 to what grossgary has said - do NOT get in a hurry with rusty fasteners.

 

Having a good quality penetrating oil is also essential (WD-40 is NOT it, however)

 

also, pick up a can of this stuff http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05002 - when used as directed it really does work!  Living in northern Wisconsin, rusty fasteners are a way of life, i wouldnt recommend something that I havent used and had success with.

kroil!!

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Kroil is good,

PB Blaster is good,

Sea Foam Deep Creep is good,

even Liquid Wrench is better than WD-40...

 

But when all else fails, that Freeze-off is the shiznitz!

 

price has come way down from when we bought our first can of the stuff, too - we paid close to $20 for a can, it is now more like $6-7 bucks a can, depending on where you get it.

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Kroil is good,

PB Blaster is good,

Sea Foam Deep Creep is good,

even Liquid Wrench is better than WD-40...

 

But when all else fails, that Freeze-off is the shiznitz!

 

price has come way down from when we bought our first can of the stuff, too - we paid close to $20 for a can, it is now more like $6-7 bucks a can, depending on where you get it.

i gotta git me some o' that!! i bought 2 cases of kroil so i've been using that for awhile....that crc product looks pretty cool ( :) nyuk yuk yuk :) )

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