sirtokesalot Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 (edited) 1995 legacy wagon my transmission began to change gears erratically is the best i can describe it.for the most part it runs good most of the time when i press the pedal there is a gear there ready to pull me along. some times/ alot during the last trip also the first time ive noticed it in the 350 miles i drove the car it has been switching gears at will. ill be cruising along at 45 / 50 mph and it will downshift to 3rd then back to 4rth go back to 3rd for a second then what seems like first ill let off the gas it will go back to 4rth again and stay there for a bit ill have full power no issues and it will happen again. i noticed sometimes from a stop as i take off i have 1st it will shift to second then 3rd and drop back to 1st then 3rd. what causes behavior like this? is the transmission toast? it has very clean fluid and was running great all day until i decided to head out to a friends house.i got it home again but it was shifting erratically the whole way. Edited November 5, 2014 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 good fluid ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 the fluid is still very clean looking. it is also full Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Check engine light on and/or AT light flashing at startup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 no check engine light at/temp light is there when key is turned but goes out after starting no flashing of the light happens. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 if i drive with it in 2 it stays locked in 2 first stays in first 3rd will shift from 1st to second to 3rd then sometimes will drop down to 1st and back to 3rd. drive will shift normal but will downshift erratically all the way to 1st sometimes even if your driving at 50+ mph when it downshifts if i gas it harder i can feel the lower gear is there its just reving really high so i did not do that much. if i just take my foot off the gas when it downshift it just up shifts back to where it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 we have to ask this as, occasionally, people do it wrong. The trans fluid is the only one you check with engine running. Better if you run the shifter to each gear for 5-8 seconds, then put in park or neutral and check with the engine running. Also a good idea to pull the stick and wait 2 minutes, Look on both sides and go by the the lower of the 2 levels. was any service done to the car before this problem came up? any diff or trans fluid changed out? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 yes i check with the engine running. i changed the engine oil about 10 miles before this started happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 (edited) is the car new to you? check the fluid levels again. there have been several cases of people confusing the drain plugs. anyway, it seems to be running quite badly to not be throwing a code - maybe scan for 'pending' codes. I THINK you '95 might be OBDII (there's probably a sticker in the engine compartment that will say) so, any car parts place (AZ, O'Reilly, etc.) can scan the ecu for codes. Get the number and post it here. like P0123 or w'ever. Edited November 6, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) yes the car is new to me ive had it for about 3 weeks. i work on cars for a living basic maintenance at a valvoline instant oil change i do other work as well ive always worked on my own cars. i know for sure i drained the oil and oil filter when i did the oil change. the trans fluid is the color you would expect new trans fluid to look like and full. the check engine light is only on when the key is turned before starting once started the check engine light goes out. i scanned the obd2 with my obd2 scanner anyways and found no codes stored. when i bought the car it had a cylinder 2 misfire the check engine light does work. i replaced the plugs and moved the wires to opposite cylinders on both ends and reset the check engine light 350 miles ago when i changed the plugs it has not come back on yet. i have not driven the car since this happened the other night. Edited November 7, 2014 by sirtokesalot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 check for loose ground wires. i had an 00 lego auto trans that acted a little like this. it would down shift for no reason. it finally started flashing the AT Temp light while driving. i could find no info on that. but my problem was a loose ground wire on top of the engine. i forgot to tighten it when i did the head gaskets 6 months earlier. but i bumped it loose when swapping an axle just before the problem started. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 yes the car is new to me ive had it for about 3 weeks. i work on cars for a living basic maintenance at a valvoline instant oil change i do other work as well ive always worked on my own cars. i know for sure i drained the oil and oil filter when i did the oil change. the trans fluid is the color you would expect new trans fluid to look like and full. the check engine light is only on when the key is turned before starting once started the check engine light goes out. i scanned the obd2 with my obd2 scanner anyways and found no codes stored. when i bought the car it had a cylinder 2 misfire the check engine light does work. i replaced the plugs and moved the wires to opposite cylinders on both ends and reset the check engine light 350 miles ago when i changed the plugs it has not come back on yet. i have not driven the car since this happened the other night. OK, got it. sorry but, we get people across the entire range of mechanical ability. Kinda wondering if disconnecting the battery for while and forcing a reset could help. any signs the car has had the engine or trans out? It's easy to crack the trans oil pump marrying them back together. I THINK throttle position sensor problems can cause weird shifting problems but, I'm at the limit of my ability to help further I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 ive been working quite late and dont get home until way after night has happened ill have a free day to look at it tomarrow. i drove it last ngiht for about 45 min for the most part nothing happened until i got close to home and it started acting up and shifted its way into 3rd then 4rth then 3rd again and down to 1st i let off it settled back into 4rth and did not happen again i dident drive it much longer though. where are the factory grounds located on the engine and trans? could changing the fluid help this situation even though it appears like new condition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 fluid changes do seem to help those trans that may have had long-interval service, such that gummy deposits interfere with valve operation and new fluid 'cleans' or dissolves stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 fluid changes do seem to help those trans that may have had long-interval service, such that gummy deposits interfere with valve operation and new fluid 'cleans' or dissolves stuff. Since you work at a Valvoline store, it would be easy for you to change the AT fluid. Only half can be drained at one time, as the other half of the ATF remains in the torque converter and will not drain out. Suggest you do a drain and fill 3 times with short drives between refills. This takes a gallon and a pint of ATF upon each refill, but does a good job of getting rid of old fluid. I read that you think the current ATF looks clean, but you don't know if previous owner put an additive in with the ATF, to now cause problems. You may also want to consider adding Lucas AT additive. That product is well respected. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 What fluid does subaru call for specifically? If I'm going to change it I'm going to use the correct fluid and not the stuff from work. Is there a peticular fluid people like better than others? Id be doing the work in the driveway at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 It was something like Dexron IIE or III, but you won't find that anymore since GM stopped renewing licenses for blenders for that many years ago. The bottles will usually say something like 'for applications formerly calling for Dexron III'. I think the bulk ATF would be fine at least for the flushes and especially if you can give a drain and fill periodically to keep it 'freshened'. I'd look for their older style ATF's, the new formulations are more heavily friction modified though they may claim to be backward compatible. Or if they're using bulk tank ATF with different additives for different applications that might work. Or you could get synthetic ATF if you are willing to pay out the cash for it, with 3 drain and refills it can add up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 i wound up just getting a 1 gallon jug of the dexron compatible atf just the cheaper stuff i could not affourd more and changed the fluid i had i wound up putting like 6 quarts into it after draining it and i only got like 4 and a half quarts out of it. anyways i drove it for an hour out to a friends house stayed there for a few hours then drove back home with no issues the fluid change so far has solved the issue for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 (edited) I've noticed my 98' Imprz Outback has an "AT Oil Temp" light turn on, and then off at start. It's been around for a few weeks, I didn't realize it could mean something. Definitely wasn't always there. I have an auto Ej22, and it shifts slightly jerky at times. If I baby it, it does alright, ehem but I've had mostly hard shifts lately. Again, not terrible, just hard enough where I try to adjust my throttle and brace for the shifts. As long as I'm not powering through the shift, it's ok but not as smooth as I'd like. My ATF looked to be in decent shape, red with just the start of used smell, looks to be I'll be draining it. Edited November 10, 2014 by SnatchedHatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 SnatchedHatchi understand your concern, and i commend you for finding this thread, but i cannot comment on your problem until i know: year model engine trans miles color location Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 SnatchedHatch i understand your concern, and i commend you for finding this thread, but i cannot comment on your problem until i know: year model engine trans miles color location My mistake, it seems it ks in fact the "AT Oil Temp" light that I see stay on and turn off at start. Does this have any significance, or is it normal operating procedure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 a flashing AT Temp light is abnormal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnatchedHatch Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 a flashing AT Temp light is abnormal. 1998 Subaru Outback Sport EJ22 Automatic The AT Oil Temp light turns on at start and stays lit for a few seconds before vanishing for the rest of the drive. Is that typical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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