opus Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Start it cold, idles high like normal then it warms up and goes to idle like it should. Drive 20 miles, stop, shut it off. Come out 5 mins later and start it and it's hard to start, almost like it's too lean. Once it starts it tries to idle at 450, stumbles but won't die. Drive it a mile, runs fine and will then idle fine around 750. When I start it cold I have to hit the throttle once or it will crank for a while before it starts. Ready, set...go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 turn the idle screw up a 1/2 turb or so......It's a recessed screw (flat) look straigh down at throttle it's behind the intake bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Already tried that. Played with the high idle screw too but that didnt seem to do anything. Its kinda like [carb speak] the idle circuit is dirty? I tested the TPS and adjusted it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Sounds like it fouls a spark plug w/fuel(leaky injector)l or coolant on a hot restart.i would see if it holds fuel pressure after. shutdown. CTS is worth checking too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 I pulled all the plugs before a warm start, plugs are fine. Changed the CTS. No indication of it being coolant either. Been running Seafoam as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Does it have proper fuel pressure? Does it hold fuel pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 I don't have the ability to check that. However would that cause the car to not idle right and 1 mile later have it idle fine? The car runs perfect but for that time after hot restart. If there was flooding there would be hot start smoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 It could. Mine ran well w/a weak pump but had starting difficulties. Don`t expect smoke from minor flooding. I still think a plug or 2 is fouling. Not always easy to detect, The symptoms fit rather well. There are not a lot of other variables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Well, for the time and money it would take me to get someone to check the fuel pressure, I might be further ahead just to get a pump and replace it.....if thats what this we think this is pointing to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Fuel pressure gauges are like $20. I would not replace the pump w/o checking. I`m thinking leaky injector more than pump, You can get some idea of the pump strength by dissconnecting the return line from the regulator and measuring the flow volume. Not the 100% correct way to do it(you should measure the 36 psi flow rate) but,if the return volume is very low w/the engine off you know you have a problem. I was shocked to find I had almost no return flow. Pressure was 36 psi just like it was supposed to be, Car ran well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Where do I find this regulator? So fuel psi in should be 36psi and return psi should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 On the fuel pump, try bridging the negative side of the wiring directly to the body. This wire is supposed to earth out via the ECU on the series 1, but something burns out. Mine started doing your problem, and then got worse and worse over the following months until it finally refused to run at all. Might not be your problem, but almost $0 to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 What I did have to do quite a while ago was to ground the fuel relay [under steering wheel] to the body because there was no ground to the relay. Hmmmm..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 The hot wire to the alternator, fries itself and eventually breaks at about 15,000 mile intervals. Before it breaks, it causes all kind of problems with the idle. You need to splice in a new 6" wire section at the end of that wire, after you cut off the brittle portion of the wire which occurs at the very end. You will want to change out this wire splice every 10,000 miles. Other indications that this is the problem is that the engine runs even worse when you turn on any accessory like lights, defroster, or run the electric windows. Also, the points inside the distributor get corroded after only a few thousand miles. Use fine sandpaper to take that corrosion off and improve the spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Easy enough for the time I had today. The wire to the alternator wasnt good so I repaired it. We'll see. Points??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Replaced the wire....nothing different except I have a better terminal and piece of wire now. Humor me; what would happen if the fuel pump was wired backwards? Also, how long should the fuel pump run while the car is idling? All the time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherGL10guy Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 #1 CHECK----- I have the same car and had the same issue. believe it or not it was the temp sensor. Not the sender in the Radiator but the one in the block, offset towards pass side behind intake. The plug is the same as an injector or cold start plug, it has 2 wires and is square. My connection was bad and it did just what your saying. Cut the bad plug off, put my own female blades on, heat shrink both around metal, then plug in. Worked like a charm!! #2 CHECK----- also could be your cold start vacuum or solenoid. #3 CHECK----- I would check EVERYWHERE for a Vac leak also. I highly dont think it has anything to do with your fuel pump or pressure reg. MAYBE CHECK----- hell it could even be that stupid HAC (high altitude compensator) sticking. so many things it can be. at last, kick and tap and hit things, usually works for me!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 #1 CHECK----- I have the same car and had the same issue. believe it or not it was the temp sensor. Not the sender in the Radiator but the one in the block, offset towards pass side behind intake. The plug is the same as an injector or cold start plug, it has 2 wires and is square. My connection was bad and it did just what your saying. Cut the bad plug off, put my own female blades on, heat shrink both around metal, then plug in. Worked like a charm!! #2 CHECK----- also could be your cold start vacuum or solenoid. #3 CHECK----- I would check EVERYWHERE for a Vac leak also. I highly dont think it has anything to do with your fuel pump or pressure reg. MAYBE CHECK----- hell it could even be that stupid HAC (high altitude compensator) sticking. so many things it can be. at last, kick and tap and hit things, usually works for me!! #1 - replaced it and the plug. #2 - cold start was perfect this morning. It started great without touching the throttle. #3 - I have. Found one in the beginning of time but that was it. Maybe check - have no idea what that is. I have kicked, twisted and fondled everything I can find. Car runs great one the fuel pressure seems to build up and the pump shuts off. You can actually feel it driving down the road. When the pump is running on hot start it runs kinda like the engine should be "choked" to get more fuel. Once it gets to where the fuel pump is going to shut off it runs great. Anything before that time and the idle will be down around 450 and not wanting to stay running. It wont die, but makes you think it will. From what I recall, I have never heard a fuel pump run consistent at idle. There is a good possibility the fuel pump was wired in backwards, well, there is a 50/50 chance. Would it run if it was pumping the other way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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