CNY_Dave Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Rust is just starting to kill off the Gen 2 H6 cars up north, so the market for engines will only get better... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 water pump failure is extremely rare. but given the level of work involved to replace it - yes replacement is wise. that it's been overheated and cooling system compromised i'd expect it's taken an above average beating too, Failure yes, but them SOB's love to squeak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluetoE Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 (edited) I hate that rust is killing the early 2000 models already, but if that means I can breathe new life into my '03 for cheap I'm happy. It's weird. This one only runs hot if you have the A/C on at idle after driving for 20+ miles. Driving it around town it doesn't miss a beat. The guy I bought it from had no idea it had HG problems at all. He wrote off the weird temp fluctuations as just a car with 200k+ miles on it. ETA: www.car-part.com for engines jdm places like jdmenginedepot has them for $1,000 - $1,500 as well. There is a local place in my back yard (less than 20 miles away) with an '04 with 72k miles on it for $1200 but they want my old engine as a core for $200, so $1400ish out the door then $200 back when I bring mine back. That seems like super low mileage for an engine that old, so if the HGs are in good shape, it would be awesome. Is the $200 way too low for the core? Edited March 19, 2015 by BluetoE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 It's weird. This one only runs hot if you have the A/C on at idle after driving for 20+ miles. Driving it around town it doesn't miss a beat. seen the exact same thing before. sometimes they can even only do it during the summer - which i don't get as the engine temperatures are rather static - due to the thermostat. they can get worse very slowly and be driven a year or two sometimes. as they get worse, they get worse faster if you know what i mean. eventually you'll start loosing coolant and need to refill weekly - then every trip. symptoms will remain largely the same and progress to overheating at idle too. core charges are usually really low - $50 for the last 2 smaller/older/cheaper 4 cylinders i bought. $200 is not surprising. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluetoE Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 seen the exact same thing before. sometimes they can even only do it during the summer - which i don't get as the engine temperatures are rather static - due to the thermostat. they can get worse very slowly and be driven a year or two sometimes. as they get worse, they get worse faster if you know what i mean. eventually you'll start loosing coolant and need to refill weekly - then every trip. symptoms will remain largely the same and progress to overheating at idle too. core charges are usually really low - $50 for the last 2 smaller/older/cheaper 4 cylinders i bought. $200 is not surprising. I'm afraid this one is on the tail end of that progression. I've topped the coolant off a few times and it's taken almost a half gallon each time. I haven't noticed any dripping except when I put too much in the overflow and the gas build up pushes a little out of the cap. I have no idea where it's going. I guess it's being vaporized by the hot combustion gases or something? Anyway, I don't think it has much longer before it's going to start using more coolant than it's worth to drive it. I just hope I can get a few weeks out of it while I'm getting my 98 back on the road (duty-c issue -- but I'm thinking about just dropping the drive shaft to see how it runs in FWD mode - fuse doesn't work). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) It's weird. This one only runs hot if you have the A/C on at idle after driving for 20+ miles. Driving it around town it doesn't miss a beat. hmm...you sure the fans are working properly? Edited March 20, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluetoE Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Yeah. I tested the engine with a NAPA block tester. There are combustion gases in the cooling system. Fans turn on and off fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) I think they also have a hi/lo operation. Just that, it's a common symptom when fans fail, you get good cooling when moving, then overheat at idle. I suppose some restriction in the radiator could have similar symptoms. bad news on the HGs though. ugh Edited March 20, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 hmm...you sure the fans are working properly? it would seem like fans, but i've seen H6's with bad headgaskets do the same thing he's describing. when it's under those conditions pop the overflow tank and look for bubbles. not 100% telling but worth a peak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluetoE Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 If the gauge is over half, there are bubble. If it's below there aren't. I'll try to see if the fans are doing the hi/Lo thing. I thought they were all or nothing. Anything to help it stay cool is good. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 yep, HG's. yeah these fans are really wonky and run a various RPM's due to a rather complex algorythm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 This is an old thread, I've been perusing it for ideas after my 2.2 overheated several times on Saturday though it had been running like a top with no issues and even passed the emissions inspection with check engine lights off. But now with 292K miles on it, and the likely head gasket issue, I will have to just use it for short trips monitoring the temperature gauge anxiously. I bought another bottle of the K & W Fiberlock, double your money back @ around $40, nothing to lose. The bubbles/steam came out the radiator top bleeder plastic screw, not the radiator cap end. No real option except to try and baby it as spending over $1000 on the head gasket repair is not sensible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 i guess you've check coolant level, fans are coming on, radiator isn't clogged with debris/bent fins, thermostat is operating properly? Getting one of those vent-lev-R stant caps at the auto parts store helps by allowing you to open the system even when it's hot so you can top it off and get back to driving. open it sloooooowly as hot coolant will rupture out quickly through the vent hose, into the overflow and blow the cap off of that and blow out the top there - if you open it quick. this isn't necessarily the right part number, just the first that came up on a google search, but here is what they look like: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-or-stant-radiator-cap-lev-r-vent-10331/17110038-P If it's a 1998 or earlier EJ22 those are the simplest Subaru headgaskets to repair and can be done in the vehicle easily. If you can find a mechanic charging by the hour, not scared of Subarus, it could be done rather inexpensively. All the headbolts are external - there's no removing valve covers and cams/cam caps like you have to on other Subaru engines. really simple engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) Thanks--another option is the plastic vent bolt on the passenger side of the radiator top; so you can release pressure that way; also useful for burping the air out of the system. Also I have run the heat full blast to suck some excess heat from the engine, but now it seems to only be hot part time, which tells me the water is not getting to the heater core all the time or possible air bubbles are making the heater ineffective? Radiator is new last fall; fans are a-OK, thermostat was put in with the new water pump last fall. At that particular point in time, the mechanic who installed the water pump actually said that the gaskets he could see were partially melted at that juncture. I used the K and W Fiberlock then because they thought that the head gaskets might be toast as the bubbles were coming out; but that could have also been the crack in the radiator, which I later replaced. No over heating then until recently. Edited June 15, 2015 by ThosL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 Why does everyone immediately jump to "replace engine"? If you can pull the engine, then you can replace those head gaskets for less than a used engine will cost. And you will have the opportunity to inspect the cylinder walls, pistons, and rings in the process. My EJ22 had over 200k on it when I pulled it and the cylinders, pistons, rings all looked great. It's back together with a full reseal and running good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) wouldn't you be in the firing range of the vent screw blow off if you're loosening it? the pressures might even strip those plastic ones when loosening? the vent caps give the extra precaution of blowing hot pressurized gas into the overflow tank at a controlled rate where it can't come into contact with you. Why does everyone immediately jump to "replace engine"? . no one said to replace his EJ22? i was the his only reply and i mentioned replacing the headgaskets. Edited June 15, 2015 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 in all fairness, I do mention used engines occasionally. I think I do so more often if it seems like severe or repeated overheat conditions have been experienced. I just feel it would be a waste to do all that rebuild work on an engine and have a rod bearing go out 6 months later. Somewhat better to do that work on an engine with half the miles that may have never overheated I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 +1 LT - replacing the engine is a good fit sometimes for sure: a used EJ22 for $200 - $400 is cheaper than the headgasket parts, resurfacing, labor to install that would be a good fit for some people. repeated overheats lend themselves to lower end issues for H6 engines (the original intent of this post) - the timing chain and headgasket labor is so expensive that replacing can be cheaper every option has conceivable up sides and down sides - pick what fits you best! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 oh, I would never fault someone for rebuilding an engine. Wish I had the space, time and extra transportation required, etc. as said, depends on a few factors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 As gary said sometimes it is cheaper to get a used engine and do the Tbelt kit then to have the heads checked/resurfaced. In my area the only shop that does heads is 60 miles away and they get $375 plus tax to do the heads. Ad in gaskets and such it comes to well above $600 bucks. I got a used 99 2.2 for $500 bucks with 126 k on it and a six month warranty. I also got lucky to find a sticker under the Tbelt cover from a Subaru dealer that noted the Tbelt kit was done at 100k. I still replaced the belt that had Subaru on it and all idlers and other tbelt related stuff looked brand new including the water pump, It even had the Subaru label on it so I know it is oem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThosL Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 (edited) i guess you've check coolant level, fans are coming on, radiator isn't clogged with debris/bent fins, thermostat is operating properly? Getting one of those vent-lev-R stant caps at the auto parts store helps by allowing you to open the system even when it's hot so you can top it off and get back to driving. open it sloooooowly as hot coolant will rupture out quickly through the vent hose, into the overflow and blow the cap off of that and blow out the top there - if you open it quick. this isn't necessarily the right part number, just the first that came up on a google search, but here is what they look like: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-or-stant-radiator-cap-lev-r-vent-10331/17110038-P If it's a 1998 or earlier EJ22 those are the simplest Subaru headgaskets to repair and can be done in the vehicle easily. If you can find a mechanic charging by the hour, not scared of Subarus, it could be done rather inexpensively. All the headbolts are external - there's no removing valve covers and cams/cam caps like you have to on other Subaru engines. really simple engines. Most people don't know how to vent out the steam, etc., using the passenger side radiator vent bolt, actually I lost mine on Saturday, and was not able to find a replacement at Auto Zone or Advance Auto, and those guys are leery of coming out to try to help, so I found the right metric thread bolt at Home Depot. But the steam built up with head gasket issues. Since my leak was from the narrow hose over the engine below the throttle body, I did not fix that blown out hose until yesterday, but it is just jerry rigged with a foot of hose I got from Auto Zone spliced in with a worm plastic connector to the old hose. So I'll just have to keep monitoring everything as these engines can heat up quickly if the steam gets bottled up! Edited June 15, 2015 by ThosL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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