xdeadeye1 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 96 Legacy L wagon ej22 , Automatic trans. Ok I recently changed my timing belt and cam/crank seals. All is good there. For a long time I have had some oil smoke that would waft up from under the engine somewhere, not a lot, but I havent figured it out yet. but whatever it is its dripping on the exhaust or manifold somewhere. YEsterday,, I drive up a steep gravel road, about a 1/4 mile to my friends hunting camp. the awd worked like a charm,, no spinning,, no gunning of the engine. get to the top to park,, and I felt like uncle buck. Lots of smoke coming from under the engine somewhere. cheech and chong had nothing on me.. My oil doesn't go down a lot or very fast.. Any ideas on this? I have been under the car, it looks like my engine was "designed to leak" everything oily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Very likely a leak from the oil separator plate on the back of the engine. The oil leaks down and hits the exhaust. Typically there is oily sludge covering everything down there...transmission crossmember, power steering rack, lower control arms, etc. Could also be blowing back from valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, etc. and ending up on the exhaust. Best bet is to do some cleaning (especially now that you have replaced the cam/crank seals) so you can better determine the source of the leak. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 I also already replaced the valve cover gaskets. I was thinking it could be that separator plate thing,, but was hoping it wasn't. I don't see myself pullin the engine.. im not sure about how to separate the tranny from the engine and what that all entails. But as you said, oily sludge covers everything down there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 (edited) i have 40k miles on my ej22 (165k total) swapped into my 97 GT wagon auto. i resealed everything (except the rear main seal) including the oil pump. and all new timing components. i did however use really inexpensive seals and gaskets from ebay. (it was my first time, i have learned.) but a suabru oil sep plate with RTV. i have already replaced the valve cover gaskets. i have learned my lesson about cheap parts. and now my car has smoke coming out from under the hood at the end of a good drive. i sure hope it is not the oil sep plate on mine. time to crawl down under. i thought i got that right. Edited November 10, 2014 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 I also already replaced the valve cover gaskets. I was thinking it could be that separator plate thing,, but was hoping it wasn't. I don't see myself pullin the engine.. im not sure about how to separate the tranny from the engine and what that all entails. But as you said, oily sludge covers everything down there. I pulled my EJ22 because of the separator plate leak. This was my "boldest" car repair adventure to date. It wasn't that bad, but it did take me some time (although this is my third car so there was little pressure to work on it like a madman). There are a few good , blog posts (engine removal and plate replacement) and discussion here (in addition to the FSM description) about the process. I could definitely do a removal much much quicker now. I was working on my car on jack stands, in front of my house (on a cul de sac) so I am definitely a driveway type mechanic. The lack of burning oil smell is glorious and knowing my engine better is rewarding. If you are going to keep this car for a while, I recommend replacing the plate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 If there's a LOT of sludge underneath, I suggest going to Giant Eagle and buying GENERIC OVEN CLEANER for $2 a can. Buy 3 cans to be safe. With engine cool, spray ONLY the metal surfaces with the sludge built up. Lye is caustic, so keep off the skin, don't breath, and avoid eye contact. Let it set for 5 minutes (as it foams, it'll pull the grime away) then rinse off with garden hose water. Repeat as needed until bare metal is showing. If it's REALLY thick grime, spray the cleaner on, let it set a couple minutes, then use a brass wire brush (Harbor Freight sells them for like a $1 roughly) then spray off. Once all the old oil grime is gone, is should be easy to discern where the oil is leaking from (look for trickling down the trans case, look for fresh drips on clean cardboard, etc.). If you have to tackle the separator plate, the trans casing, etc. will at least be "clean" to touch and you won't be covered in an inch of grime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 ok,, question. CAN I remove the transmission from the engine without pulling the engine,, there by accessing the separator plate and the rear main seal? If I CAN ,, is this route EASIER than pulling the whole engine.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Do a search in this forum...there was a thread within the last few months on this very topic. You can leave the engine in place and remove the tranny to get at the plate, but I think the general consensus is that it is a little easier to remove the engine for the plate replacement. Working under the car is trickier and manhandling the tranny is tough as well and you probably need a transmission jack. Now that I have been through an EJ22 removal/replacement, there really are not as many connections as you might think. Tracking down the engine hoist is probably the hardest part (or rigging up a chain hoist to an overhead beam/frame). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 pulling the motor is far easier than trying to drop the tranny. If you are doing tranny work anyway, then yeah, go that route, but if not... AC compressor bracket gets unbolted and compressor, with hoses still attached, gets laid off to the side. same basic procedure for the power steering unit Unplug the main wiring harness - 3 connectors disconnect the air box plumbing unhook the throttle cables and lay them off to the side disconnect the 3 fuel lines on drivers side - take note/mark of which one goes where! disconnect radiator and heater hoses. You can pull the radiator out to have more working space, but it isnt 100% necessary unbolt the 4 flex plate to torque convertor bolts thru the access port on top passenger side of bell housing. unbolt exhaust and motor mounts Unbolt tranny from motor (drivers side lower is the pain here) and pry apart - make sure the torque converter stays seated in the bell housing as you separate the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Are you guys/gals saying the entire engine needs lifted out of the engine bay? Or are you unbolting everything, unbolting the bellhousing + converter, then pulling the engine forward a couple inches towards the radiator to give clearance? Also, can you leave the exhaust attached at the headers and just unhook the exhaust mounts and let the entire exhaust go forward with the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 i believe he is saying pull the engine up and out of the front. and i would try to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold if i do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 It couldb e done with motor in car, but you want to raise the trans enough for the engine mount studs to clear the crossmember. This can be accomplished (for the sake of replacing a clutch disc. You are better off to get the engine out so you can properly torque on the flexplate or flywheel bolts to get to the separator plate. For this purpose. you could consider removing the trans instead. But the consensus is that pulling the engine is much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 You are better off to get the engine out so you can properly torque on the flexplate or flywheel bolts to get to the separator plate. Suppose that'd be easier to torque if you have an impact and those specialized black swivel sockets that can withstand an impact wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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