93 Loyale Stereo Wiring

[tincan]

Test light success.

 

It turns out that the 1993 model quietly had it's wiring changed around. Many sources online I have found claim for the constant 12V to be on the red/green pins and the illumination on solid red (which consequently, also attach to two pin connector with the same colored wires).

 

This is WRONG.

 

Test lighting the supposed red/green and red wires at the connector will show there is no power through these wires, despite them being connected to both the stock head unit's harness and the two pin connector coming off it and back to the car, regardless of key state (off, accessory, on).

 

The blue yellow wire (pin one) will only power in accessory and on positions. Thus, 12V switched (or ignition as it can be labeled on aftermarket diagrams) has been located.

 

Last, but certainly not least, is the mystery one pin connector with a white clip. It is ORANGE from the stock unit, and at the car side, changes to GREEN. Putting a test light to it in off will show power, as well as all other key states EXCEPT start (engine crank, this is normal).

This is the constant 12V (or battery connection) that is SUPPOSED to be the red/green wire (or perhaps, only applies to years prior; I can only speculate why Subaru did this and won't begin to).

 

So, let's recap.

 

Constant 12V - Orange from stock unit, green after single pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'battery')

Switched 12V - Blue on stock unit, blue/yellow after eleven pin connector (aftermarket manuals may call this 'ignition')

Ground - Black on both sides of eleven pin connector

 

Wires in question:

 

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070451.jpg - Constant 12V

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070352.jpg - Switched 12V

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w482/tincan93/Mobile%20Uploads/20141116_070410.jpg - Ground

 

Of course, the result will become clear when you jam it all in the dashboard and turn the key on:

 

 

There is no illumination, nor remote power on lead for the amplifier (unless you installed one), and the power antenna wire is also unused (again, unless you installed one).

 

Again, I used a test light and checked everything in each state of ignition. I know this gets searched up a lot online, but I'm not responsible for what you do to your vehicle, nor can I confirm if this will work in your scenario. That being said, use caution and common sense.

 

Hopefully you can make use of this information if you decide to install an aftermarket stereo.

[l75eya]

I vaguely remember running in to that same problem when I put a kenwood in my girlfriend's 93 loyale. Had to use a test light to find power. Nice write-up.

[Gloyale]

The red green and Red wires are the dash lighting wires.....One is power, the other is variable ground through the dimmer switch.  The 2 pin connector with these wires in it is for ash tray lamp or lighting for another accesory.

 

Also......You need run new speaker wires or at least new Negative wires to the front speakers, and use the other 2 Negatives (Blue and Blue/black) for the rear speakers or it will burn out your new deck.

 

 

if your Loyale has no rear speakers ignore this.  But if you ever wnat to add rear speakers the wires are there from dash to doorjam......but the grounds front/back for each side are combined....so best to run new wire to the front speakers (easy) and use the existing wires for the rear.

[l75eya]

I'd like to add in though, that I've been running that same kenwood deck in the loyale for close to 5 years now with no problems with the stock wiring (with rear speakers added)

I don't think the stock wiring will cause any problems with your stereo so long as you don't adjust the balance or fader at all.

Granted, it IS a good idea to run all new wiring to all four speakers so you can enjoy all the features of a newer deck and so that you never have any issues later on down the line, as I did in my GL.

Xplode head unit with xplode rears and panasonic fronts hooked up to an xplode 1000w amp pushing a 12" mtx sub and an 8" polkaudio home theater sub.
After swapping out the stock alt for a Maxima unit, it's great! (Before doing this my headlights would pulse with the bass and my voltmeter needle would dance.)

[Gloyale]

I'd like to add in though, that I've been running that same kenwood deck in the loyale for close to 5 years now with no problems with the stock wiring (with rear speakers added)

 

I don't think the stock wiring will cause any problems with your stereo so long as you don't adjust the balance or fader at all.

 

 

 

Bad idea.

 

If the deck was supposed to have common grounding they would have made it like that.  I have seen it kill some decks within a month.

 

I would not recommend anyone run a modern deck on the combined ground setup of the stock wiring.

[tincan]

The red green and Red wires are the dash lighting wires.....One is power, the other is variable ground through the dimmer switch. The 2 pin connector with these wires in it is for ash tray lamp or lighting for another accessory.

I can't say whether this is true or not; but I know test lighting those leads with the lights on showed no power. I'll pull everything out and go over it again to be sure.

 

The thing is though, if you say, Google this diagram, every source will claim the red and red/green wires as being illumination and constant for 1990-1993 and completely ignores the single pin connector entirely.

 

So the write up was done to debunk possible confusion for those who might wind up dealing with this. That and save time with the test light ordeal.

[Hsoj]

Its one thing to grab solid power and switched power from the harness but the grounds will give you issues and can kill a deck. It's way better to use all new wires for the speakers to eliminate feedback and potential future issues. On the newer Kenwood decks it will tell you when you have a default and turn its self off. The older Kenwood decks internally cut volume off but some will just fry and all it will take is a speaker ground grounding out.

 

Most people think that a ground wire is like drain pipe, it is sorta like that, but in electrical systems, it has to be remembered that its a very small drain and you dont want to over fill it as its got some power in it if its being used by something else.

[DPalms]

I got a 94 loyale that has the same problem with the illumination not working after I installed a new stereo. I tried constant and switch power and either it stays on regardless what position the headlights are in or on the switch it comes on and off but the headlight switch won’t turn it off when the headlights are turned off. How do you hook it up to work with the headlight switch?