Partial Engine Lift (Forester)?

[Pasta]

Okay everyone, you've helped on numerous DIY fixes and saved me thousands in labor costs.  First Soob, purchased last summer.  2009 Forester Limited (Guessing it's the EJ 25 engine, but can't find any identifiers). 71k miles.  Can't find this topic searching the forum.

 

Went to change the spark plugs and noticed oil in the tubes - okay, replace tube seals and cover gaskets.  But I cannot get to the lower corner bolt on the driver side, closest to the dash.  Internet research shows guys doing a partial lift of the engine to gain a couple inches of room.  They claim with a floor jack, 2x4 block, and 5 minutes one can easily lift the engine enough and gain access to this bolt.

 

My skill level is probably "Medium"...maintain the family vehicles, but not nearly as experienced as many of you.  I need some help...I know I can do this...I just need someone to explain it in simple terms. 

 

Can someone please explain HOW to partially lift this engine in simple terms?  What nuts to loosen?  Where are they located/how many?  Where to put the jack?  Do you recommend to lift the passenger side also?

 

Thanks for your input.  This is the last maintenance item to have the wifey's Soob up to date!

 

Pasta (always lurking)

 

P.S. is this considered "lifting" or "raising" the engine?

[Fairtax4me]

Lift, raise, tilt, all the same.

Pics here of the general location of the lower engine mount nuts: http://beergarage.com/SubyOilPan.aspx

It's the second or third pic down. You'll only need to remove the nut on the side you need to jack up. Loosen the nut on the other side.

You'll also want to remove the pitch mount that goes from the top center of the transmission to the firewall. You may need to remove part of the intake tubing or airbox on the engine to get access to the pitch mout.

Once you have those out/loose get your jack and cut a block of wood the right length to go from the jack head up to the engine block beside the oil pan. (Don't jack up the engine directly under the pan or the pan could be dented and obstruct the oil pickup inside. )

Jack the engine up about an inch or two if possible, then cut a small wood block to fit between the bottom of the engine mount and the crossmember. Then lower the engine onto that block. This keeps the engine from falling in case the jack slips.

[Pasta]

Great.  Will try to get at this tomorrow afternoon.  Will keep you all updated...

[Pasta]

Didn't get to it this weekend, hopefully next weekend..

[86BRATMAN]

I've had good luck with those back bolts with a ratchet wrench. Very handy tools to have and relatively inexpensive for parts store house brands.

[Dj7291993]

What I usually do at the shop is undue the motor mounts nuts, undue the exhaust manifold nuts (unless they seem like they're going to cause me problems), drop the car back down.  Then undue the dogbone/pitch-stopper batween the trans and firewall.  Then, put a jack with a block of wood under the edge of the oil pan.  (as long as you are careful, you won't damage the pan if you use wood, and lift at its strongest points, which are the edges)  Pick it up high enough to get the studs out of the holes, then push the engine over to one side (left while I'm working on the right, and reversed for the other side).  Then when you're done, set it back in the holes, and re-attach everything.

 

Fairtax's way is good, and possibly a little safer, but I'm not sure how easily you can get to the block, since I think you have the wrap-around style exhaust manifold.  Granted, when I do it, I have a lift and a 1/2" drive Snap-On cordless impact, so this process takes me less than five minutes, and lets me use my cordless ratchet on the valve cover (or as Subi calls it, rocker cover) bolts.Just watch the pan as you're jacking up on it.  The car will lift a little as you take some load off the suspension, but you don't want ti lift the car by the engine.