hi comp pistons

[Aluxes]

My sub amp is an MTX class D mono block amp, its 1500w peak. It has 3 fuses but I dont remember the rating. 25 or 30. Its powering 3 10" MTX woofers in a sealed enclosure with a 2 ohm load. My smaller amp is an Alpine 160w amp powering an MTX component set. Capacitor, 4 gauge wiring, gold plated connects and upgraded battery terminals. As for the ecu I think you want to use 97-99 Legacy Outback.

[Bushwick]

Another 10's lover huh? Too many people don't appreciate the bass a 10" sub can produce. Only thing that stinks is they basically weigh the same as a 12 since most use the same magnet between the two and you basically need the same wall thicknesses from the box. Yeah, running 2 ohm with 3 10's probably works the amp out right at it's limit, which will tax that poor 140 amp alt ;( at full-tilt.  I'm running a single 10" Alpine R in tuned square port box and recently snagged a used Kicker L5 12" for dirt cheap to round out the sound. Have about 3 different amps running and recently snagged another 225w x2 rms that will be going for mids. Only listen to rock anymore, but it's a fun hobby and nice having a decent set up. Bet yours sounds pretty good?

 

The interrupt switch mentioned above would still help you out if you want to try it. I know you are going the old school route and trying to squeeze every last HP out of the NA engine, and freeing up an extra 2-3 parasitic hp would help raise your cumulative hp total. Hope it helps! Too bad you can't run an electric water pump. Well, technically you could, but it'd be tough to fab. Remember popping a belt in one of my warmed over Fox Mustangs while spinning the tires and was shifting into 3rd when it dropped the belt and it starting spinning the tires in 3rd and I felt a slight surge in power. Normally it wouldn't spin them in 3rd unless you slipped the clutch at near redline.

 

Anyways, they can rob serious power and I suspect with that Mustang it was stealing nearly 15 hp considering how much it responded as the only other thing attached was a small 65 amp alt and power steering (maybe 5hp combined between the two). Might want to investigate aftermarket water pumps (or maybe a STi WP might be decent?) with stated impeller flow increases over stock as there might be reduced drag if the impeller design is more efficient. It also might be possible to clip the blades of the water pump impeller which would reduce drag, less rotating mass, etc. which would be easier on the timing belt. Can't go hog crazy with material pulled, but in theory it should work out the same as the turbo guys that clip their blades on the compressor wheels.

 

Sorry for the unprovoked statements. I just want to help out and really dig the idea of going the NA route, which needs every trick possible to get the most from it. Once you add in the reworked plugs you'll see another gain that'll compliment all the others you've already chipped away at. 

[Aluxes]

Yea my set up sounds pretty good. I didnt feel like your post was provoking at all. Thanks for the tips. Still gonna try out the spark plug mod, just dont have time right now. But soon!! Thanks again for the tips.

[Fairtax4me]

I tested a 25 ECU from a 97 GT on my 96 L 2.2 and didn't notice any difference in the way the car ran other than It would idle too high on startup, and I got codes for the EGR (which my car doesn't have).

 

 

If you want to try an ECU, they changed the pinout in 98.

95-97 should swap with each other. 98-99 swap with each other.

[86BRATMAN]

The 95 is a one year pinout and won't swap with any other year, well it will but don't expect it to run. 96-99 ej25d and 96-98 ej22e have the same pinout. I have a 98 forester ecu in my 97 and everything works perfectly. With the ej22 ecu my hybrid motor would surge through the rpms and power would drop off much earlier than it should for my build. The ej25d ecu smoothed the motor considerably and it pulls hard all the way to the rev limiter.

[Bushwick]

Sorry Aluxes for the thread deviation here.

 

 

@Fairtax   It might have gone into a limp-mode thinking the EGR stuff was disconnected, which could explain why it didn't feel any different. I'm assuming with a 95' ej22, which means I'd probably have to use a 96' ej25d, right? What is it again that makes the 95' ej22 more desirable as a swap? Is it the lack of EGR or something? After looking at ej25d wiki page, 96' being the 1st year, it was set up for the HLA and states 91 octane was recommended. Which suggests compression or timing was more advanced, and the 95' still had the same lifters as well, so that might be the year to try here. Seems the guys running 97' thru 99' can use the 97' - 99'.

[86BRATMAN]

If your car is a 95 you have no options for an ecu swap.

[Bushwick]

So you don't think a 96' ej25d ecm with the pinout redone to match the 95' would work? Did the 96' have an egr?

[86BRATMAN]

All usdm ej25ds had egr no matter which trans they had. The 96 25d ecu is the reason for the premium fuel requirements as well, it would be my last choice for an ecu swap honestly. If you're going to go through the trouble of a repin you'd be better off using a 97-99 ecu.

[86BRATMAN]

Also I forgot to mention why the 95 automatic ej22e is most favored to replace the ej25d. It is the only year that will have the dual port exhaust, non-interference, and egr all rolled into one neat swap package. The 95 manual ej22e is a close second, and can be used if you don't care about a cel for egr system. All 96-98 ej22es are single port so they require swapping the exhaust manifold as well.

[Bushwick]

I'm going to start another thread so as to not lengthen Aluxes' post any further. Please check there.

[Aluxes]

the ej25d ecu is straight plug and play, the jdm ecu I was speaking of requires a decent bit of wiring changes. More than most people would do for a daily driver.

Hey bratman I have a question, maybe you can answer. I have swapped the 97 ej22 ecu for a 97 ej25d ecu. It runs great!! But now the check engine light is on so I hooked up the code reader and got the code for egr PO402. I have a manual....I dont have an egr correct? Did I get the wrong ecu?

[86BRATMAN]

Due to the ej25ds all having egr here in the states there is no way around the egr code coming up on a non egr ej22e. It effects nothing in the way the engine runs, just has the code. If you live in an emissions state you can always keep your stock ecu for testing time,just swap it out a few days in advance so all the monitors get set before you take it in.

[Bushwick]

Due to the ej25ds all having egr here in the states there is no way around the egr code coming up on a non egr ej22e. It effects nothing in the way the engine runs, just has the code. If you live in an emissions state you can always keep your stock ecu for testing time,just swap it out a few days in advance so all the monitors get set before you take it in.

 New thread started here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150941-95-legacy-mod-to-accept-97-99-ej25d-ecm/?do=findComment&comment=1265253

[Bushwick]

Aluxes, that P0402 might be because of your O2 sensor movement. Have you omitted the rear cat yet? The autos have an egr. My 95' HAS an egr. Here's a link on your code: http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0402

 

And here's the egr: 

 

The actual valve is towards the back. The egr transducer is up top (round disc with several vacuum lines). I was looking at pics and apparently the EGR can get REALLY clogged. That can also pull that same code.

[Aluxes]

I have not omitted the rear cat yet, but I did move the rear cat O2, but have had no issues with it for the last 150 miles.The car runs a lot better after the ECU swap, even sounds different. Muffler shop said I can bring in the old cat pipe and they can make a straight pipe I can bolt right in, they just cant do it themselves. My car does not have an EGR, just a plate bolted on the manifold.