rebuilding timing belt idler pullys

[mikaleda]

I have been playing around with idea of rebuilding my timing belt idlers on my 2.2. I had a used set of t belt idlers and I took my race/seal driver and was able to knock the bearing out of an idler easily. I was thinking about buying some good quality bearings and replacing the bearings in my old idlers instead of buying new ones.

I know the new bearings would have to be aligned exactly so I was thinking about cleaning the idlers really good and using spray paint to mark their exact position.

I doubt it would be hard to find the right size bearings and I bet the cost would be quite a bit cheaper and would probably be better quality than a cheap kit.

Any advice? I do have a non interferance engine so if for some reason it were to cause the belt to fail it wouldn't hurt my engine, I'd just have to get a tow home.

[Twitch de la Brat]

I have been playing around with idea of rebuilding my timing belt idlers on my 2.2. I had a used set of t belt idlers and I took my race/seal driver and was able to knock the bearing out of an idler easily. I was thinking about buying some good quality bearings and replacing the bearings in my old idlers instead of buying new ones.

I know the new bearings would have to be aligned exactly so I was thinking about cleaning the idlers really good and using spray paint to mark their exact position.

I doubt it would be hard to find the right size bearings and I bet the cost would be quite a bit cheaper and would probably be better quality than a cheap kit.

Any advice? I do have a non interferance engine so if for some reason it were to cause the belt to fail it wouldn't hurt my engine, I'd just have to get a tow home.

 

Considering the risk and cost of getting new bearings vs rebuilding the old ones, I'd say this may be an exercise in futility, but, to humor you, I'll try to exact some more details.

 

You'd need to match your bearings exactly. And by exactly, I mean within a ten-thousandths of an inch.

Type of bearing is obviously easy, but bearing speed rating needs to be matched as well.

Also, depth alignment and getting the bearing to seat in properly could be a challenge.

If you could set up a jig that seats the bearing flat and at the right depth, you might be on to something for a quick turnaround for customers/yourself.

You know how to work wood?

 

Twitch

[moosens]

Get the kit and enjoy more life.

 

Don't take from your time for something so inexpensive.

 

Pardon the candor. Cheers!

[lmdew]

The finish on the Subaru idlers outer skin seems much better, so the idea has some merit.  

I second the thoughts above.  A jig to set the correct depth would be the best.

Time and Money, how much would you save and how long does it take?

Larry

[mikaleda]

I like the idea of the jig. As for size and speed rating, thats no big deal, I can take the old bearings into the local bearing builder and have them matched exactly, they do excellent work. Once the jig has been made the time to rebuild them is negligable, compared to waiting for them to be shipped. Once I've done one set, I'll have all the specs on the bearing and jig setup and then the cost and time would be negligable and quality would be far greater

[Twitch de la Brat]

I like the idea of the jig. As for size and speed rating, thats no big deal, I can take the old bearings into the local bearing builder and have them matched exactly, they do excellent work. Once the jig has been made the time to rebuild them is negligable, compared to waiting for them to be shipped. Once I've done one set, I'll have all the specs on the bearing and jig setup and then the cost and time would be negligable and quality would be far greater

 

You working with Brown in Spokane? Or someone else?

Also, don't be afraid to call up your local napa to get bearing numbers off of specs, because we have access to thousands of bearing numbers.

This is of course dependent upon if your local store still has their bearing spec book.

If all else fails, get a micrometer/calipers and call the Rathdrum store, (208) 687-5500.

I work there and that book is very well known and used. If you're hoping to get me, I work Mondays and Fridays only right now; otherwise everyone else is pretty (or very in some cases) knowledgeable.

 

Twitch

[mikaleda]

You working with Brown in Spokane? Or someone else?

Also, don't be afraid to call up your local napa to get bearing numbers off of specs, because we have access to thousands of bearing numbers.

This is of course dependent upon if your local store still has their bearing spec book.

If all else fails, get a micrometer/calipers and call the Rathdrum store, (208) 687-5500.

I work there and that book is very well known and used. If you're hoping to get me, I work Mondays and Fridays only right now; otherwise everyone else is pretty (or very in some cases) knowledgeable.

 

Twitch

Yep I was planning on using browns bearings. I was also thinking about using them when my input shaft bearing goes out ( I hope that doesn't happen for a while)

I might give Napa a shot though, it all depends. I have a couple used sets of idlers laying around and a brand new set as well so I should have plenty of reference numbers. I'm not sure when I'll actually get around to actually replacing the bearings yet, but I do have a few ideas for making the jigs.

Looking at the bearings, I don't think that getting the bearing to sit flat is going to be an issue, its just going to be centering the bearing that will be the hard part.

[idosubaru]

Don't even need to replace the bearings.  The bearings aren't the issue - it's the lack of grease. 

You can regrease the existing bearings.  on supple face seals you can gently lift about 180 degrees of the seal, regrease the bearings with a needle insert for your grease gun, and reinstall the face seals.

Don't overfill them - the grease expands when heated and will either seep out the edges of the face seal or displace the face seal.

 

I've looked into replacing the bearings and also disassembled a few....but the regrease is so cheap, easy, effective, that it's been rather pointless for me to replace bearings. I'd probably look into it more if it was on interference engines and the Gates timing kits weren't so cheap on amazon.

 

On the 80's stuff the face seals are brittle and the rubber coating is prone to cracking - pry carefully and gently on face seals. 

I've tried to source new face seals - that would be awesome if i could just get new face seals - pry off the old and install new.  but haven't found any.

 

Otherwise - yes replacing the bearings is super easy just like any other pulley bearing.

Good quality japanese bearings can be pricey so it'll add up quick.

[idosubaru]

When done as I said - the bearings feel 100% like new.

 

You can google it too and find some youtube videos, etc.  I tried to find some links but internet is cracking out.

[mikaleda]

When done as I said - the bearings feel 100% like new.

 

You can google it too and find some youtube videos, etc. I tried to find some links but internet is cracking out.

I like thus idea alot, as long as they are good quality bearings I think I might just go this route. Probably wouldn't even need to pull the idlers

 

I know what you mean about good quality bearings being pricey to. I bought a set of OEM japense idlers new and it was over $200

Edited December 9, 2014 by mikaleda

[subnz]

Wouldn't recommend it.

Not worth the effort / risk / inconvennience for the small cost in replacing with new ones especially for interference motors.

Made the mistake of doing this once  ie subaru agents gave me/pressed in  the wrong bearing for toothed idler pulley it lasted a year then it seized destroying / taking  the teeth out a of section of the belt (a year later and belt 7500 miles old)  thinking that l was saving a few dollars at the time but it cost more in the finish.

luckily motor was non interferance so a major inconvennience

Edited December 14, 2014 by subnz